PM2 - A ways back you asked about where to get spun bond row cover. Johnny's carries it in two weights, one for summer mainly to keep insects off, though I have used it for fall frost protection stretched over hoops of black plumbing pipe, this year allowing me to harvest peppers and cherry tomatoes until 2 weeks ago. I've never harvested warm weather crops into November, and I've been gardening in this town for 34 years. The other is specifically for winter protection and is a heavier weight. Where you are, with a combination of plastic sheets or bubble wrap and spun bond on hoops over rows, I imagine that you can harvest until the first heavy snow. My redbor kale is still out in the garden totally unprotected, and it's fine even though the temperatures have been down to 20 degrees the last two nights. It is deep purple and ruffled, gorgeous to the point that one of my neighbors stopped to ask what it is. (During the summer it was more blue-purple, and while attractive enough that I plant one in a container of ornamentals each year, didn't stand out as much as now in an empty garden). I mostly eat it as I am out working in the garden - a grab and go salad - since DH isn't fond of cabbage family veggies. I grow kale, broccoli and edible podded peas since I love them, but don't grow many crops just for myself. I have in past years started spinach in the fall for early spring greens, and as with Defrost, it works well. I am warmer in the fall than she is, but I think colder in the spring - I am a slight bit further south but in a river valley so get late spring frosts. The spinach was fine, and under a row cover might start up earlier. When we had raised beds with weeping soaker hoses at a previous house, each bed had its own separate line that we could switch on. It was a while ago, but as I remember, it watered evenly and was easy to use. Thanks to all who contributed to the directions on herbs that work well in salt and proportions. Someone gave me some rosemary salt, and it's been lovely on popcorn, so I've been meaning to look up how to do it. I haven't spent a lot of time on this forum, though I have been growing organic veggies since I was in my teens. The recent posts listing in the sidebar has pulled me over here recently. Thanks to all for such great information!

pm2 - yes, even a 'failed' dog from Dog Guides is pretty amazing. The socialization they get during their puppyhood time in a foster home is invaluable - and something you can't replicate with your own dog. The Dog Guide puppies go EVERYWHERE with the foster 'parents' e.g. in stores, restaurants, offices; at all sorts of public events and public places, etc. etc. The foster process is designed to expose them as many new things as possible, as well as give them basic obedience training, so nothing bothers them and they are calm in unfamiliar places. One of Cole's issues is that he is still a bit too excitable and overly friendly (wants to jump up on people!) so he still needs training in that regard. He's still basically a puppy - he'll be 2 years old on the 27th of this month. When he first came he wasn't walking nicely on leash so we used the training collar combination that Dog Guides uses when the dogs are in training - a Halti combined with a martingale (the one with a loop of chain under the throat - not a full chain collar.) The leash gets attached to both collars - instant easy walking with none of the snaky, evasive manoeuvres you often see with dogs on a Halti collar alone. I'd never seen collars used like that until we started volunteering at Dog Guides. Cole now walks nicely (most of the time!) with just the martingale collar. This is what the arrangement looks like: If you're ever having trouble getting a dog to walk nicely on leash, try this arrangement! Dog Guides breeds their own dogs - although some are donated by breeders too. Cole is a miniature poodle although I think they may crossbreed the different sizes of poodles as there are some standards that are smaller than normal and some minatures that are larger than usual. They use a smaller one than Cole for a lot of HED but I think they're a bit bigger than 'toy' size so may be a cross with a miniature (?) If you love dogs, it's a fabulous place to volunteer! As for accomodating the dogs in the garden.... The main thing is to accomodate their need to patrol territory and explore and play so they aren't bored when outside! The path network in the backyard has paths along the side fences and near the back fence. Because of the 'wet corner' the back path does not follow the back fence and there is a short (6") iron fence (just a cheapie ornamental thing) along the edge of the 'wet corner' bed to keep them out of the mud in the spring - they recognize it as a barrier and stay out. On the NW side of the back fence there is a small bank against the fence so the path runs at the base of the bank and the plantings are tough enough there so they aren't damanged when the dogs visit with the neighbours' two through the fence... :-) traffic patterns considered in layout: neater version of layout: Callie doesn't dig - but Cole has started to excavate one place just off the patio recently! So we need to train him not to do that! Callie's breed does indeed include Cairn terriers in the mix - see link.... Noodle sounds sweet - pictures...? Do you still make her cookies? Cole eats commercial dog food - and we make the dog cookies in small training-treat size pieces to use when working on training (which is constant at his age....) thyme - we were posting at the same time.... thank you - and back at you re the gardens - I always enjoy seeing yours (especially the fall color pictures which have inspired me to pay more attention to that here....) This post was edited by woodyoak on Thu, Aug 8, 13 at 17:44

Diana & Karen, that hummingbird has been taunting me all day, LOL! Here is a picture of him sitting still, but it was taken through my kitchen window. Everytime I would go outside to get a closeup, he would start flying around from flower to flower and I couldn't keep up with him. They'll probably only be here for another week or two, and I am determined to get a real clear closeup of one before they go!!! Diana, the plant next to the Dianthus is Alyssum 'Golden Queen'. It was wintersown this year, but it didn't bloom this spring, so I'm looking forward to seeing it next spring. I have to agree with everyone about the Solidago. It only blooms for a short time, but when it does, it is a showstopper! Bonnie

I haven't been reading all the threads on this forum or any for that matter this week with everything going on. Just read through this thread. I hate to start on a thread if I don't have time to read all of it. I could just say Ditto to what Dawn said and leave it at that. But then Dawn would be disappointed if I didn't ramble on aimlessly a little. I will address the issues in no particular order. Seranade. Last year I did like this year started off trying to go without spraying and then when I gave up already had some disease issues. I agree it is best to start if you plan to spray 7-14 days after transplant. I pruned leaves last year and then sprayed with Daconil heavy the first time and then at the regular rate and the first two on a five day rotation and after about 3 weeks things were going good. I then decided to try Seranade. No change in weather and no moisture. In five days I was in another mess. Early blight mainly and a few spot problems. I then went back to Daconil and stayed on a 7-10 schedule till Labor Day and then quit spraying and things were fine. So for me it hasn't worked well at all. I listened to the Rutgers/Cornell webex and they stated that they hadn't seen good results on a consistent basis with Seranade. Like Dawn said you need to balance that a little but have seen many say the same. Think it may work under certain conditions. This summer I have used Daocnil mainly along with two forms of copper and may try another. Copper seems to work better on the spot and speck. Daconil covers more diseases and works well especially on EB. I didn't spray during the last rainy spell due to rain every night. Not complaining. I did spray one night and got two inches a few hours later. When the rain quit and it warmed up I had some spot so sprayed with Copper. The EB took ahold again. So have been trimming leaves and spraying with Daconil and think I have it under control again. I have read some of the organic controls and have tried some from sources I respect. I haven't tried the skim milk yet but may sometime. Did try the peroxide this summer and may try it as a preventative next year. I saw some promise to it. But just thought I had better go with what I trusted as the insect borne diseases were getting so many didn't want to lose any I could possibly save. Think in a normal year that it might be enough. But will have to use it for a few years to make my final judgement. I usually try to go by the label on spraying schedules. Most will say 7-10 days or 5-7 days. I have seen several back east spraying every day or every other day and some have lost every plant and some have only lost a few after the Late Blight hit. Fortunately I have no real experience with late blight. With Early blight as a preventative I've had good results on a 10 day schedule if you have little or no rainfall and not many heavy dew mornings. If the dew is heavy or you have rainfall I would decrease that. With copper most of mine say from 5 days up. In a rotation I spray on the 5th day if weather allows. Now we get into some of my observations and opinions. Like I stated earlier in the year. I have less problems and better results in a normal year with plants planted late and even volunteers. There have been a few exceptions. This year is holding true. I put out several late for several reasons most covered in earlier posts. From me breaking off a few, early wilt on a few and then I had some plants that I wanted to grow that got stunted in a new seed starting mix also had a few nice plants left in the frames when I went to clean them out although most were rootbound and should of been out weeks earlier. This year is a typical year for them. Even the stunted plants have took off. No disease and setting fruit. Will they ever be as big of a plant. No. Will they produce more fruit per plant than the early ones when you figure all the ones I lost. Yes and I feel more. I know a market gardener not far from me and she is like me. She grows a few earlier ones because there is more demand and they sell higher earlier. But like she said the plants that really start producing around Sept 1st will do better and produce more with less care here in our climate. She is about 80 miles SW of me in the TX Panhandle. For me if I want to stay mainly organic later planting is the best in a typical year. I will continue to scatter my plantings from early to late so I can cover my bases. I'm also trying some direct winter sown and also starting some in the cold frames and then going into the garden a few days after they break the ground. The ones started outside seem to be healthier. And can withstand elements a little better. With all of this said I still haven't found a good plan for the insect borne diseases except rain. And they have been my big problem this year. And the other thing is stress caused by weather conditions. I was looking at some last night I had been threatening to pull for 7-10 days. They are looking better now and the purple is going out of most of the leaves. Shows it was stress and weather related. I've found no sure way to tell besides time or sending off a sample. Final summary is that Daconil works for me. The copper's work for a few specific problems. The Garlic Barrier spray I used this summer controlled most insects if applied on a five day or less schedule. It doesn't control hornworms or psyllids. BT and Spinosad worked on most of those that it didn't except the thrips. I didn't have near as many but a few. And that could of been because I wasn't spraying on a five day schedule. One thing I plan on trying next year is peroxide and Garlic Barrier on a 5 day rotation starting a week after transplant or emergence. Many say healthy plants will withstand a disease problem. I feel that it really helps but had some of my biggest and healthiest go down. And when it comes to the insect borne diseases I don't see much that help. Many say to kill all weeds around. But like I've told Dawn I've seen some of the best tomatoes this year growing is weeds and bermuda grass. i know one friend who let weeds grow in her plants and one marker grower who leaves all sunflowers. Saying they attract the insects that carry the diseases away from the tomatoes. i feel there is some truth to that. Hope your plants recover and do well. Jay