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Pruning established Weeping Cherry

13 years ago

I have a nice 8 foot tall Weeping Cherry in front of my home. Privious owners use to prune it very severly. So much so that the neighbor said the tree never got much bigger than the 4 inch trunk and the 20 weeping tranches they left ofn the tree. I have mulched around the tree fertilized it and let the top come in but trimed any crossing or rubbing branches. In one seson it has put almost a inch of girth on the trunk!! It looks pretty good I want it larger, but it have one branch that is pointed skyward/up. When it goes dormant for the winter should I cut this one upward branch out? Is there any risk with how fast this thing is filling out after be stunted for so long for winter damage from the heavy snow whe have here in New Hanmpshire?

Comments (4)

Embothrium
13 years ago
If the entire branch is bolt upright all the way to the tip it is liable to be from below the graft and in need of removal.

If you get any branches coming from above the graft that grow well above the existing weeping top but are otherwise the same, bending on the ends and with the same leaves and shoots leave those: it is the weeping cherry growing taller. When allowed to pull itself up out of a compact, single-level crown shape such a specimen becomes much more interesting and dramatic.
shortlid
Original Author
13 years ago
Thanks for the reply bboy, It is not from the root stock it is from the corwmn and only is going skyward on the very tip of the branch. Same leaves, girth, etc.

With that beaing the case you purpose leting the three gow upwards and become larger. There is no danger with my winters that thais will make it more prone to snow load damage will it. Most pruning guiges I have tell me to only keep branches at a 90 angle to the trunk?? I guess this is ONLY if you are looking for a musroom shape not a natral shape?
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at least start with a picture if you want more than brandons speculation ... [though he is probably right] if it is small enough.. w/in your physical capability .... to move it.. do so in fall when its leaves fall off ... otherwise.. it is most likely grafted on a standard ... up high where it starts weeping.... [again with the pic, please] .... you can cut any branch back as far as you want.. to tame it.. but if you cut all the good stuff .. most likely the pole part... is not the weeping plant you want .... or they would not have wasted it as the standard .... this plant may actually have 2 grafts.. on the root stock.. down low [though i would defer on that] .... and the one up high ... pix please ken
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you might want to tell it whether it is on a standard .... or post a pic your guidance is at the link.. pick which one you like.. and go at the thing ... or post us back a link to the pic you like.. and we can help .. but listen to me.. PRUNING DOES 'NOT' HURT A PLANT... so just get that out of your head ... it lives in your world.. teach it a lesson ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link
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@akamainegrower - I can certainly contact the nursery to find out. While I bought it in July, they said (and I'm going strictly on what they told me) that the tree was being kept dormant, and so when it was shipped to me was the first time it came out of wherever they were keeping it dormant. I do like the tree, and don't want to just get rid of it. I still do want a weeping tree in my front yard, preferably with a dark pink or purple color. I was looking at a Lavender Twist Weeping Redbud, but can't really buy one now. When would be best to both purchase the new tree (preferably a well established one 3+ feet tall) and to transplant this Cherry to a new location. I have a spot in the back of my house that gets plenty of sunlight, and if this is a Nanking and it will produce fruit it will keep the mess away from the front of the house. Thanks
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How true^. In any case Matt, make nice neat, clean pruning cuts just beyond the point where a branchlet diverges from that portion of the branch you wish to cut back, Do not leave stubs. Normally, I advise to cut back to an outward-facing branchlet so as to not add to the congestion in the center area of the crown, but that might not apply in your case since you want to restrict lateral size. So make the cuts with that in mind and just realize you're starting down a road that really has no end-so long as you have this tree. It will always need re-doing. But what have ye to lose? If I'm understanding correctly, the tree is already in its somewhat-too-small spot. On the other hand, if we had a picture to look at, other solutions might present themselves. +oM
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Embothrium
13 years ago
If the branch is definitely from the scion then leave it. If it turns out to be rootstock when it blooms you can saw it out at that time.
shortlid
Original Author
13 years ago
OK, Guess tehe tree is trying to grow taller

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