Your plant looks like it is all new growth. Each vine is referred to as a stem and emerges separately from the crown of the plant. Pinching out the growing point of a stem encourages more lateral growth from two points then which looks like it is more stems but it is the same stem with more growth points. With three stems from the crown it has a good start. The first year It is in the ground most keep those three stems cut, pruned, low to encourage root establishment and more stems to emerge from the crown. Often there is not much new growth but the plant is working hard below ground. You might cut it back further 8-10 inches so you can see what is happening or leave it the height it is and continue to prune any single stem growth off this year. Early next spring cut it back low again. Then if you see more stems growing from the crown let it grow and bloom. If still only three stems emerge repeat this year's procedure. After blooming in your area you can cut the stems low so they grow and maybe bloom again. The third year in the ground most clematis have a burst of growth and you can let it grow with just pinching growth points to get that side growth. Note that pruning and pinching are different procedures for different purposes. Next spring you will see the old dried up looking stems which are referred to as old wood/old growth. With Pruning 2 clematis once these clematis are established (usually the third year in the ground) you will look at the old growth and see where there are green leaf buds coming and prune back to the highest part of the stem that has those leaf buds. Then cut off anything above that. Or cut it lower to shape it if it is getting too unruly or tall. If you cut it to 12 inches you may not get the early spring bloom and a chance for a second bloom. But you will still get a full bloom just a bit later. In my Z:4 garden most P:2 clematis die close to the ground because of our harsh winters. They still grow well just bloom a bit later. We rarely get a second bloom as the frosts come early though there may be a bloom or two throughout the later summer and early fall. Hope this helps ease your stress over growing clematis. Patience is the hardest part of establishing the new plants.

I planted out two pumpkins last week (I know, it's early), and they were fine, even though I didn't do anything to them last night. It occurs to me (now, LOL) I could put pop bottle cloches over them. I think any frosts we have now will be light. And watch out later this week - the annoying thing I've seen is that the weather services will say lows of low 40's, then at about 10:00 at night they'll change it to frost advisory - what's with that? Can't they get that info any sooner than that? Running around in the back yard in the dark with sheets to cover my trays is not my idea of amusing. Well, ok, it is amusing.

Isn't a growbag is an old bagpipe filled with dirt? :) I'm surprised Scotland is zone 8, but I guess that's what happens when gardening zones are defined by minimum winter temperatures. I'm in western Canada, zone 3, so winters would be a heck of lot colder than Scotland, but summers maybe warmer. Anyway, I'm at 53.5 degrees North, so probably have similar long summer daylight as Scotland. Your greenhouse and temperate climate should give you a long growing season, but light may play a factor too, with growth slowing as the days get shorter even if you can keep the temperature up. I get shut down here by late September regardless as frost threatens. As someone above mentioned, varieties of C. annum will probably work best for you as they grow and ripen the fastest. In my experience, I find getting fruit set on hot peppers a lot easier than on bell peppers. You might do okay with bells in your greenhouse. Watch for insect pests, they can multiply quickly in a greenhouse, though you certainly wouldn't have any natural pepper pests in Scotland. That's all I can think of off the top of my head... oh, I'm growing "Matchbox" this year, a hot pepper, going to start hardening them off tomorrow in preparation for planting into pots and maybe directly in the garden too, in another week or two.

Windberry, I was thinking the same as Floral, that it would be nice to have your location in every post. Here's how to add it so it posts automatically by your name. Go to Your Houzz in the upper right of every page, click Edit Profile, and on the left side click advanced settings. Well down the advanced settings page is a blank labeled Climate Zone for Garden Forums along with a link to find your zone. If you add info on your geographic region, state/province, or the nearest large city either here or on the profile page under the name posted, it will be useful since zone only relates to average coldest winter temperatures and factors such as soil type, pH, and moisture regime will effect plant growth as well. Then return to the top of the page and click Done Editing. IME there are a range of plants that in my area will begin "spring" bloom in fall as soon as their chill requirements are met if we get a warm spell that allows bloom. Certain Rhodies, forsythia, and some Hellebores are all plants I have seen do this.