Nothing new about 'Hino Crimson'.....one of the most popular older varieties of evergreen azalea. And I'd not consider it particularly adept at self-cleaning. The spent flowerheads are easily caught in the dense foliage but also easy to remove with just a gentle shake or raking. This is an excellent choice for a foundation planting as it is quite a compact shrub that tends to grow wider than tall with time. Height will be variable with age but you should expect 2-3 feet and 3-5' in width.

Is the soil moist when you insert a finger to a depth of 4"? It may be getting dry spells and wet spells due to the summer temperatures. Evenly moist soil should be the goal. Azalea roots grow mostly in the top 4" of the soil and are very tiny and fibruous. This area also tends to dry out fast during summer when the winds pick up and the temps regularly stay in the 100s. Long periods of drought will weaken plants, allowing them to suffer from other ailments like fungal infections. Overwatering can also cause problems and root rot so try to water when the soil starts to feel almost dry. Some wilting of leaves is ok provided they recover when the sun goes down or by next morning. Extreme looking wilting episodes however should be dealt with immediately (ie, apply about 1 gallon of water) since a rootball that dries out may be difficult to save (of all things, they actually tend to repel water so you have to drip irrigate them or dunk the shrub in a container full of water). What kind of soil do you have? Most locations the DFW Area require planting in raised beds because of the clay content. I noticed no mulch under the shrubs in some pictures; I would maintain 3-4" of acidic mulch past the drip line. I would also try to water with rain barrel water (or something similar) as our water is as alkaline as our soil. It is common to have some leaf spots this time of the year. And watering the leaves can cause this too. I could not get a good grasp of how many leaves in the shrub have them; if it is only a few, you may not want to take action except to use good sanitation techniques. Examples: never wanter the leaves; water the soil only and do it early in the mornings; dispose of plant debris under the shrubs; throw away infected leaves in the trash instead of the compost pile; allow for good air movement between plants by separating the shrubs; etc Fertilize if your soil needs it but stop by July so tender new growth does not get zapped when winter arrives. Azaleas tend to feed off the decomposing mulch and are not heavy feeders. Some Hollytone or cotton seed meal in Spring should be fine.

i was going to suggest 'conversation piece' but they are more pink than white with variable flower colors. linked is a list(with photos) of late-blooming evergreens. you may find it listed here. Here is a link that might be useful: carlson gardens' azaleas

If a leaf has brown areas with white spots, it probably has a local fungal infection of Pestalotia leaf spot. This is seldom controlled with fungicides and is best mitigated by good sanitation and avoiding excessive moisture. Small bright yellow spots is a symptom of azalea rust, a fungal disease. Orange-red pustules containing spores form on the lower surface of the leaf. Control by avoiding those hybrids and species which are very susceptible to rust. Good air circulation is helpful. Triadimefon seems to help, but may not be registered for use on rhododendrons. Brown, reddish-brown or purplish leaf spots that occur on many cultivars are physiological and not disease caused. These spots are generally purplish and are inherent in the cultivar. Environmental stress may increase their appearance. They do no harm to the plant. A grayish white, powdery coating or fuzzy white growth on upper or lower surfaces is azalea powdery mildew (Microsphaera azaleae). This is more prevalent on deciduous azaleas and sometimes it affects the lower surface more. Entire leaves can be covered. In late summer and fall, small black specks may be found in the white areas. Powdery mildew is more severe on shaded plants. It is favored by the high humidity found in crowded plantings and damp locations. There are a number of ways to manage this disease. Do not overwater or overfertilize plants, as the fungus prefers succulent new growth. Hand-pick and destroy mildewed leaves to control small amounts of infection. Hose diseased plants with water when practical. This can help remove fungus and prevent new infections. Prune and space plantings to allow good air circulation. Do not plant in extremely shaded or damp areas. Rake and destroy fallen leaves year-round to reduce infection source. Do not compost diseased materials. Chemical control is possible. Begin applications when you first notice the disease on current-year leaves. If disease appears late summer, applications are not necessary on deciduous azaleas. Do not apply sulfur products when temperature is over 85F or within a few weeks of an oil spray. Black Leaf Sulfur Dust Bonide Lime Sulfur Spray Bonide Remedy Monterey Fungi-Fighter Ortho RosePride Funginex Ortho RosePride Orthenex Safer Flower, Fruit & Veg Garden Fungicide Spectracide IMMUNOX This fungal disease can weaken the plant. Spray when you first see the disease and then again in 10 days. Chemicals will not control the fungi that has already become established. For more information see the section following on 'rhododendron powdery mildew'. The symptoms are different, but the organism and control are the same. Here is a link that might be useful: Common Problems & Solutions