I've been looking up some info on New Dawns as I am considering getting one as well. They look like they can get HUGE. http://www.southampton-rose-society.org/images/2007/gtfr/dsc_0273.jpg I think it could eventually make it up your chimney, but I'm not so sure about it being able to vertically grow as there doesn't seem much to support the rose vertically. I would assume if it was that large it would just flop over as it has nothing to really grow up. I really don't know of any real ways you could peg it up as it grows to a chimney and you could always build a trellis outlining the chimney structure, but I'm assuming you want to keep the clean look of the chimney with just the rose with it. That's a toughy.

Wow. My New Dawn just finished its first flush (roses are a little late around here this year). I rarely get much rebloom. That is the thing with my New Dawn--It is in full bloom right when the JBs arrive. It is a bit later blooming than the rest of my roses.

Raptorfan, I am not sure what your local conditions are like at the moment, but usually plants are best moved in Spring or Fall, when the soil thaws and the chances of frost are slim. This should be done before the plant leafs out, (when it is still dormant) and should help to minimize transplant shock. You will certainly want to move it before the weather gets too warm. Many people like to 'prune' the roots first in order to help minimize shock as well. You dig a spade in a circle around the outer edge of the rootball (not too close to the plant, you are not trying to cut off all of the roots, just trim them), and then let it be for a few weeks. Oftentimes when using this method it is a good idea to backfill the crevice with loamy soil. After 2-3 weeks the entire root ball is dug up, and then moved to the new location. Before you begin, dig a good sized hole and amend it with a bit of compost or other humus rich soil. Be sure to mix in some of the native soil with the compost as well. Water the plant after transplanting to help the soil to settle around the roots. Roses prefer a site in full sun, but you may find that New Dawn will tolerate part sun. You will want to wait before fertilizing it. Depending on how large the plant currently is, you may want to prune it back a little; this is something that is often done when transplanting various plants, trees & shrubs that also helps the plant to develop its' new root system as it will have less top growth to support. In order to help the plant grow onto its' new support, you should tie it on (as the new shoots grow) with garden twine (we use sisal twine, which will eventually decompose, but you can use many many different things). Do not tie the stems too tightly (you don't want anything that will constrict the canes as they grow) just enough to give it some support and grow freely. These ties should be checked a few times during the growing season to ensure that they are not restricting growth or getting in the way, and are still secure, etc. When digging your rose up, be sure to try and keep the root ball intact. Do not pull on the stems, or carry it by the stems; it should be handled with care. New Dawn is usually a very vigorous rose, but how long it will take to become a 'good size' it depends on the age of the plant and exposure, and so on. Over time it grows to approximately 12 - 18 feet in height x 6-10 feet in width. Good luck with your transplanting! -Plantenthusiast_2008

My understanding is that field grown roses are typically dug and warehoused (for shipping as bare-rooted stock the following year) in November. If you are saying your plant wilted then you didn't get enough root for the time of year you moved it - in my part of USDA 8 hybrid rose bushes are seen still flowering at Christmas some years*. Otherwise kinds of shrubs that don't have tops that remain active late - various once-blooming and species roses would probably fall into this group - are best planted in autumn, right after the tops stop growing, as this is when there is the greatest amount of root extension for the whole year. This assumes specimens are being installed with a high percentage of intact roots present, as cut root ends do not regenerate until top growth starts in spring - hence the custom of planting bare-rooted stock at that time. *"Ever-blooming" modern roses were created primarily by introducing genes from soft climate types such as Tea and China roses. The long bloom season extending into winter is a typical behavior of kinds of plants not adapted to northern conditions (crape myrtles are another familiar example). Hence the comparative cold tenderness (min. ~10 degrees F. without protection seems to be common) of many hybrid roses, this drawback having come along with the extended blooming