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kippy_the_hippy

Rose Hips

Kippy
11 years ago

I guess a newbie question but:

I have noticed that on the same bush, some spend blooms will set hips (bigger) than others. Are those ones that are pollinated and fertile or just one I missed when dead heading?

If they are viable, how would one sprout them?

And would they be a different rose than the parent if they were pollen came from the other roses in the garden?

Comments (43)

  • strawchicago z5
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Very good questions, Kippy:

    Kim Rupert is coaching me on breeding Annie with my hardy roses here in Chicagoland, since I'm crazy about Annie L. M. It takes the right condition for roses to be pollinated and set hips: stigma has to be moist, not too hot or else pollens won't be released, access for bees to pollinate, ect...

    Seil wrote an excellent article on rose hips and how to sprout rose seeds. See the link below:

    From the paper that Seil wrote, you don't get the same rose as the parent from a seed harvested from the hips. Each hip contains many seeds, and each seed is different from each other in genetic expression. Here's an excerpt from Seil's paper:

    "The first thing to know is that roses do not propagate true to variety from seed. This means that a Peace rose seed will not grow into a Peace rosebush even if it is pollinated with Peace pollen. The only methods of getting a true to variety rose bush are by bud grafting or rooted cuttings. So every seed you germinate and grow into a bush is a new and unique variety! That�s part of the fun. You never know what that rose will look like until it blooms."

    Here is a link that might be useful: Seil's paper on growing roses from seeds

  • donaldvancouver
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi
    I believe that both large and smaller hips may contain fertile seeds. The seeds should be big and plump and some say they should sink in water.

    There are lots of good articles online about sprouting rose seeds. Briefly, take them out of the hips, clean them well, and refrigerate them in a baggie of moist soil for a couple of months, then sow them.

    They will be a different rose than the parent, unless you are working with one of the species.

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  • strawchicago z5
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Here's a great tutorial that walks you through on how to breed your own roses:

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to create your own roses - hybridizing for beginners

  • seil zone 6b MI
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Kippy!

    I explain a lot in my paper (thank you Strawberry!) but here are some pictures of hips on the bush that I took for you.

    It really not a matter of size or shape that makes them viable. It depends more on the color and condition of the hip.

    In these pics you can see the hips are dark brown and very dry and shriveled looking.
    {{gwi:322663}}

    {{gwi:322664}}

    Those hips are dead. Either they were never pollinated or they aborted at some point.

    In these pictures you can see the hips are fat and green and healthy looking. These are viable and will produce seed...if they make it to maturity, that is.

    Memphis Blues X Candy Land
    {{gwi:322665}}

    This one is my favorite one! It's Trump Card X Crimson Bouquet and it's huge! It's nearly the size of a ping pong ball!
    {{gwi:322666}}

    And even though this is on the mini rose Snow Ruby it's almost as big as the Trump Card hip! This is Snow Ruby X Queen Elizabeth.
    {{gwi:322667}}

    This one is of some hips that are on one of my once blooming seedlings from 2007. These just bloomed so at this point there is no way of knowing if they have been pollinated. I'll have to wait probably 3 or 4 weeks before I'll know for sure.
    {{gwi:322668}}

    This last one is a hip I took off a pretty yellow rose (I think it was Sunny Knockout) at Costco this week. This is generally the color most hips turn when they are ripe. But some turn red or yellow too and ripening can take anywhere from 90 to 120 days most of the time.
    {{gwi:322669}}
    I decided to swipe it just to see what it would produce.

    Generally speaking, most open pollinated (OP) hips are self pollinated and will more than likely closely resemble the mother rose. But not necessarily! It just depends on what mix of genes present themselves in the seed. ANY trait that was in ANY of the family tree of the parent rose could show up. So yes, every seed is a new variety of rose because, except for species roses as noted by Donald, they do not breed true to variety from seed. That's why all the named varieties you purchase as plants are clones, to keep them true to the variety you want.

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kippy, yes, those brown, dried up ones aren't fertilized and should just be pulled or cut off. You'll find some self set seeds will look very much like the parents, while others will seem totally unrelated. Just like people and domesticated animals, some familial traits strongly stamp themselves on their offspring. Little Artist was a very popular break through painted mini. Both Laurie Chaffin and Ralph Moore "complained" that every seedling they raised from it, no matter what they crossed it with, looked just like Little Artist. Then, you have some like Golden Angel, which are very chameleon like. It takes on the other parent's characteristics quite easily, making it a very useful breeder to work in unusual traits into a breeding line.

    That said, there is no way to second guess what self seedlings of that rose will look like. It all depends upon how homogenized the genetic line is, how dominant the characteristics are. That's one of the really fun things about breeding and raising new roses! Good luck! Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Interesting!

    Are some more prone to setting larger hips?

    I might have to grab the ladder and cut a few of the red ones that our Mr Lincoln left from months ago.

    Is fall the best time to collect them or does it make any difference?

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Absolutely! Some develop enormous hips, while others make smaller ones. Some vary greatly in shape, such as R. Moyesii. As they are related to apples, they can vary greatly in color from green, yellow, red, orange and all the way to black. I'm not aware of any striped ones, though. Most seed are viable once the hips are a bit over a hundred days from germination, so no, you don't have to wait until fall to harvest them.

    A problem you're likely to encounter is the ripening hips disappearing over night. Every rat and squirrel in the world LOVES rose hips! The flesh is higher in Vitamin C than many citrus fruits. The actual seeds are chock full of other vitamins. I've had to begin harvesting earlier than I wanted to beat the vermin to the seeds. Even though I've left many self set hips on the plants in hopes of them taking those first, they seem to like having 'menus'. The tagged ones are disappearing first!

    Good luck with the Mr. Lincoln seeds. While he will set some, he's not known for being an easy one to get to germinate. If you want REALLY easy, pick some of the pumpkins from Queen Elizabeth, Orangeade, Mrs. Oakley Fisher, Lynnie, Carlin's Rhythm (and, a host of others!) and sew their seed. Some seem to yield two seedlings per seed. Kim

    I use small zip loc type bags, probably like coin or jewelry bags, to store the seed in. I'm just shelling them, packing them into the bags with a label of what the cross is, and storing them in the fridge until around Thanksgiving, when (hopefully) the temperatures will be more conducive to germination and there SHOULD be some rain. The seeds KNOW the difference between rain and hose water. Many will germinate with the hose, but once the rains start, they begin exploding like grass!

    Most germinate best in temperatures less than about seventy degrees F. You'll find some still coming up in the heat we've been having recently, but not like the will when it's in the fifties and sixties during the day, particularly when it rains. Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Another question, if the rose is under patent, are the hips off limits too? I was reading the tag on the rose and was wondering (asexual vs sexual propagation)

  • strawchicago z5
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Kippy: from the book, "Roses for Dummies", it stated "Sexually propagating patented roses, is NOT illegal". So it's OK to breed patented roses to get your own. The link is too long to post here, but if you google, "Roses for Dummies and Sexual Propagation" you will see the above.

  • seil zone 6b MI
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    No problem, Kippy! Because each seed is it's own new variety there are no laws against growing seed from any patented rose. Or from deliberately making crosses with them either.

    For me it's my winter rose fix because I can do it inside when it's miserable outside. Then all summer long I get to watch my new babies bloom for the first time and see what they look like!

    These are all from this past winter's efforts:

    Suntan Beauty 01 2012
    {{gwi:322670}}

    Suntan Beauty 02 2012
    {{gwi:322671}}

    Suntan Beauty 05 2012
    {{gwi:322672}}

    As you can see they're all just a little different even though they all had the same parents.

    And I'm loving this striped cutie I got!

    Kim Rupert 02 2012
    {{gwi:322673}}

    You should really give it a try. It's really a lot of fun to do, it's easy and doesn't have to be expensive at all.

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    One other question, we have one older white rose (that dad planted so it is staying) that has RRV. Can that be spread by bees etc to the pollen/hips of other roses?

    It sounds like more of a virus that spreads via grafting/budding etc but figured I should ask about that too.

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kippy, do mean Rose Rosette Disease or RMV, Rose Mosaic Virus? RRD is virtually unheard of here in SoCal. Opinions vary widely about how widespread RMV is. Suffice it to say IN THIS CLIMATE, RMV is little to worry about, both in the infected plant as well as the issue of potentially spreading to any others. Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Sheesh, I am tired...I knew I had that wrong! RMV Mosaic..lol

    I have one rose with some serious Mosaic leaves

  • seil zone 6b MI
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you're worried about it spread from seed I'm pretty sure Rose Mosaic Virus does not spread that way. Most RMV is spread from grafting onto infected root stock or rooting already infected cuttings. Even in my cold climate it does not spell a death sentence for roses. It probably does eventually weaken the plant and it will die off one winter but I have several roses from my Mom's garden that have been here for up to 50 years now and that I know are infected (were probably bought that way) and they're still going strong.

    Rose Rosette Disease spreads in every way imaginable, seeds, roots, cuttings etc., and by the mite that carries it from rose to rose as well. So if you have that, Dad's rose or not, get rid of it!

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Seil

    No Rose Rosette! Thank goodness! Just one white "climber" that has mosaic pretty well. Kind of interesting leaves, but the plant really struggles and has for years. (And no it is not round up damage)

  • seil zone 6b MI
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    No, round up damage mimics the witches broom growth of RRD not RMV. The most common symptom of RMV will be a yellow "lightning" like zig zagging across or around the edges of the leaves. And it isn't always present but most likely to show up when the rose is stressed for any reason. Also a rose may have RMV and not show any symptoms for years.

    Since it's RMV just keep it happy and as healthy as you can and it should live a good long time for you!

  • strawchicago z5
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Seil: GORGEOUS, GORGEOUS results! I love them all, esp. the lavender and Kim Rupert cutie. It's so exciting to see your creations. You are a lot more organized than me, I don't keep track of the pollens, I only keep track of the seed's name. My plan is whatever has lots of thorns, then I'll throw out. Once they give a few blooms, whatever don't smell good, then I throw out. I'm after less thorn and good scent, so I don't keep track of the names. One of my favorite roses is Basyes Blueberry, a single-petal thornless-rose. It smells so good I don't care how the bloom looks like. That's what I hope to create.

    Kim Rupert's Lynnie is a blessing for a beginner in breeding like me: it sets hips like crazy, and the disease resistant is impeccable. Without Lynnie, I won't get any fat hips.

    Questions for Seil: 1) do you grow your seedlings indoor in the winter? or do you sprout the seeds in pots outside in early spring?

    2) Do you soak the seeds overnight in water before sowing them into soil? I do that to all my perennials seeds in the past, and have realy good results - or else I sow them before an all-night long rain. I don't know if roses' seeds benefit from pre-soaking in water. Please inform, thanks.

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Another question;

    I have noticed a lot of roses have Iceberg listed as a parent, would that be a good rose to use either for the pollen or the hip?

    Or what are some SoCal favorites to use?

  • seil zone 6b MI
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Arrgh! You really need to keep track of both the pollen and seed parent. It drives hybridizers nuts when you don't know the parents of a seedling, lol. How can we do further work using something if we don't know what is in the background? Like those thornless, scented roses you desire? If we want to create more of them we need to know who went into their creation!

    I shell and clean my seeds and soak them briefly (like a few minutes) in hydrogen peroxide and then they are wrapped in paper towel dampened with hydrogen peroxide, put in a labeled baggie then all the labeled baggies into a grocery bag and into the veggie crisper in my fridge. I start to check them once a week after about a month. I usually start to get germinations at around 6 weeks. Sometimes I will take them out of the fridge for a week and then back in to try and simulate spring weather and jump start germination. Once they're germinated they go into a seed starter tray with seed starter soil until they get at least two sets of true leaves on them. Then they go up into a small 4" pot or a plastic cup with drainage holes in the bottom. All of this happens in my basement under lights. Nothing goes outside here until night time temperatures are remaining consistently above freezing. That usually happens sometime in mid to late April. Then I start to harden them off by taking them out during the day and bringing them back in at night. It's very labor intensive so that only happens for a few days before they end up staying out permanently. And I put them right out in full all day sunlight. I want them to be strong and hardy and vigorous so I don't coddle them. I figure anything that can't make it I don't want anyway, lol!

    As a rule I NEVER encourage anyone to try and grow roses indoors. The conditions are not acceptable for them. There is rarely enough light or humidity for roses to thrive. But starting the seedlings inside is my exception. The seed starter trays have the covers to keep the humidity up and under the lights they will do OK until the weather is hospitable enough for them to go outside. I don't have misters so I do have to be very vigilant about keeping them moist. I have been known to put them on trays of wet pebbles to keep the humidity up too. Our winters are our "dry" season and even in my basement, dampest place in the house, it can get too dry for them.

    I actually have a lot of seedlings from Lynnie! No, I didn't get the hips from Kim but from Cliff Orent several years ago. It was a VERY prolific germinator and I still have a lot of seedlings from it!

    I can't tell you anything about using Iceberg as a parent. I do know that it is a particularly good rose in CA and stays fairly healthy for your climate so that would be an advantage. It's like the Knock Out for most places west of the Rockies. It's worth trying! Besides, the nice thing about growing your own is that you don't have a lot to lose if you decide you made a dud and want to chuck it!

    And that's the hardest part! Culling seedlings, your babies, is very difficult. You get sort of attached to them and it's hard to kill them even when you know they're not good plants. Which is what led me to having over 200 of them around the joint! I have finally gotten much better about letting them go this past year. I culled about half late last summer and half of what was left this past month. I finally decided that I don't really need 10 or 12 Lynnie or Altissimo progeny that all basically look alike. So I whittled them down to the ones that were the most healthy, vigorous and/or unusual blooming ones of the lot. Now I have room to gorw more!

  • strawchicago z5
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you, Seil, for your help. I appreciate the time you took to help folks with hybridizing. I'll make sure I write the names of my pollens down (I still remember, so I'll go to the garden and do so now).

    You are right, Seil, that I need to keep track of pollen's name, since thornless roses are hard to breed, and having no thorns would encourage people to grow more roses. All my 8 older sisters have big gardens, but none grow roses since they hate the thorns.

  • henry_kuska
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    RMV is not an actual name of an individual virus. It is a group name for viruses that exhibit mosaic symptoms.

    Even in hot climates any virus in a rose may be transfered to any other nearest neighbor rose through a root graph. I recommend that you plant your virused white rose in a container or place some sort of root barrier between it and your other roses.

    In southern climates the generally considered most common rose virus, PNRSV, will be mainly in the roots (below ground) during the hot summer months, so spread by above ground modes during the hot periods should be mininal, but not all rose viruses exhibit a temperature dependence and could be spread by above ground routes. On example is rose spring dwarf which has been reported in the reviewed published scientific literature as being spread by aphids and being of concern in California.

    http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/rose_spring_dwarf_virus.htm

    --------------------------------------

    Recently a published reviewed scientific paper has been published that reported that one of the rose viruses is spread through seed.
    http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/Blackberry%20chlorotic%20ringspot%20virus%20(BCRV).htm

    Also another recent reviewed published scientific paper has reported: "R. damascena seedlings obtained from a nursery in Isparta showed no characteristic symptoms related to virus diseases and seemed to be healthy. However, one out of ten R. damascena plants was also found to be infected with PNRSV."

    -------------------------------

    You did not state whether you are observing mosaic symptoms all season or only in cool weather. If it is all season, it probably is not PNRSV (unless that particular rose has a very weak immune system against this virus).
    Whichever virus you have, it sounds like your plant is having trouble with it. Since there is a possibility that it is a strong strain of a virus, I recommend that you do not take its presence lightly.

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kippy, Iceberg has a lot going for it in our neck of the woods. It's generally better for pollen than seed around here, but you can try it either way. Take a look at Perdita. It's about as close to an Austin version of Iceberg as he's gotten. It's even rather shade tolerant here in the blazing sun and heat, like Iceberg is. Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Kim

    Thanks for the info on the iceberg pollen. Wonder what Iceberg & ebb tide or stormy weather would look like...or with blue girl...hmmm

  • henry_kuska
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I recommend presoaking your seeds in a digestive enzyme solution.

    Here is a link that might be useful: link for presoaking instructions

  • Campanula UK Z8
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    O Dear - hybridising - my bete noire for the last few years. Took me a while to get started on this (my daughter's pregnancy and potential gran-daughter kickstarted the effort. First year, very traditional, left outside in pots all winter - mostly a fail since various creatures seem to have feasted upon the seeds and hips.
    2nd year, did actually get a few OP seedlings....which were utterly rubbish (Of course, if I had not made extensive use of Zephirine Drouhin heps.....)mildewy and feeble - gone.
    3rd year - taking time off.
    Currently, Seil, you have got me excited again. Will have another go at just germinating some OP heps but with a bit more care this year. I did read the paper Henry posted and concluded that regarding Bromelain, there is a very easy substitute for this, well known for breaking down muscle tissue - pineapple juice. As well as a brief soak in HP, I will try a few with a little dip in pineapple juice and, rather than leaving the seeds to stratify outside, I will keep them in controlled conditions in the fridge (although my fridge, like most appliances in my house) is old and erratic. Cheers for generating enthusiasm (terribly jaded and fed up with rain).

  • seil zone 6b MI
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks, Henry. I do know that, like black spot, RMV is an umbrella term for more than one strain. I did not know about the bromelain though.

    Go for it, Campanula! It's something you can do inside while it's raining! (And could you send me some of that rain, please!)

  • strawchicago z5
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    THANK YOU, Henry, for that great site on using Bromelain as an enzyme to break down seeds' coating. Also thank you, Henry, for educating us about rose viruses. You always challenge me to expand my mind rather than making erroneous assumptions. I appreciate your knowledge and research.

    Campanula always make me laugh, thanks for the humor on Zeph. D (D stands for dork). Camp, you are right that pineapple juice breaks down muscle tissue. I was chopping Fresh Hawaii pineapple, then my skin became all read and irritated. The oil on lemon rinds also make me break out in rash. Henceforth, I always wear gloves when I chop pineapple or make lemonade.

  • henry_kuska
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    No, it is not: "RMV is an umbrella term for more than one strain". RMV is a group name for completely different viruses that can exhibit mosaic symptoms when infecting roses.

    Perhaps the "HelpMeFind definition is useful here (I would prefer more detail).

    Here is a link that might be useful: HelpMeFind definition for RMV

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Henry, what kind of "cool weather" are you referring too?

    Highs of 60 or lower? or 50 and lower?

  • henry_kuska
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kippy-the-Hippy, this 2000 published research paper by Moury et. al. is available free at the following web link: http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/pdfplus/10.1094/PHYTO.2000.90.5.522
    (This paper has been cited by 25 more recent papers according to Google Scholar)

    Among other things, they studied the PNRSV Elisa readings on the hybrid tea rose Anna as a function of time of year (and thus indirectly as a function of temperature).

    On December 8, 1998. The ratio of the absorbance of the infected leaves and the absorbance of the leaves of a healthy plant were (see Table 4, page 526) - 4.7

    Same test on February 3, 1999 - ratio 7.8

    Same test on March 31, 1999 - ratio 3.8

    Same test on May 10, 1999 - ratio 18.9

    Same test on July 15, 1999 - ratio 3.7

    Same test on September 1, 1999 - all samples were ELISA negative - they could not detect the virus!

    Table 3, page 525 gives the percent of positive leaf samples for the same 6 times. They are: 33.3%, 50.0%, 53.3%, 65.6%, 22.7%, and 0.0 %.
    The rose studies were carried out in Antibes, France. The average high temperature reported there is June 75 F, July 81 F, and August 81 F.

    This is only a rough estimate but it appears that temperatures in the 80s are sufficient.
    -----------------
    The following paper studied the PNRSV concentration in leaves in Warsaw, Poland where the monthly summer average highs are: 73.4 F June, 75.2 F July, and 73.4 F August. They were able to detect the virus all summer.

    http://150.254.175.4/ptfit/pdf/PP38a/PP38_091-098.pdf

    Here is a link that might be useful: link for above Moury et. al. 2000 paper

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Henry, this is the quote from you that I was asking about:

    "You did not state whether you are observing mosaic symptoms all season or only in cool weather. If it is all season, it probably is not PNRSV (unless that particular rose has a very weak immune system against this virus). "

    What did YOU mean when YOU referred to cool weather, not what did the research paper mean about spreading via roots (FYI it has been next to Don Juan for decades and Don is clean as can be as far as "zig-zag leaves" go.

  • henry_kuska
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I did not present the research paper to be applied to any discussion of spreading via roots. I thought you were interested in the question of at what temperatures would PNRSV (or at least the visible symptoms) disappear in leaves.

    PNRSV is considered a temperature sensitive virus (a simplication as the roses immune system against PNRSV is considered more effective at higher temperatures). If you were observing symptoms all season in a climate with hot summers, that would suggest that you have a different virus (than PNRSV) that is capable of producing mosaic symptoms at high temperatures - (simplication a virus that is not temperature sensitive and for which the rose does not have an effective immune response at high temperature).

    When (at what temperatures) are you observing symptoms?
    -------------------------------
    Regarding your observation ("FYI it has been next to Don Juan for decades and Don is clean as can be as far as "zig-zag leaves" go.")
    Concerning the possibilty of root graft virus transfer. How close is your virused rose to your "no symptoms" neighbor Don Juan. Are they both planted on the same type of understock?

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kippy asked, "Wonder what Iceberg & ebb tide or stormy weather would look like...or with blue girl...hmmm "

    Kippy, the "default" in roses is pink. The majority of species are some shade of pink and Nature seems to endow pink roses with the best genes for health, vigor, cold hardiness and fertility. Many crosses you would expect to produce other colors frequently yeild pink or higher percentages of pinks. It's common enough that several rose breeding friends and I tease each other when sent ideas or photos of seedlings with "wonder what this or that cross might produce?" thoughts, "Pink, five petals, unscented, prickly..." We have so many pink roses and so many of the pink roses tend to be the healthiest because Nature favors pink. Expect at least some from that (or most any other) combination. Finding decent results in colors other than pink is the trick. Kim

  • henry_kuska
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A thought regarding Don Juan. It is my impression that Don Juan was introduced by J and P during the period (late 50s) when virused roses were "accepted - is that too strong a word?". Apparently there are now "cleaned up" samples, but if yours is decades old; there may be a possibility that it is already virused (even without a root graft). There are comments that Don Juan performs better in warm climates. This is consistent with it having a temperature sensitive virus.

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Don Juan is by the poor white rose, mom has been trying for years to get the white rose happy, not till we got them all separated out this year and the Dr Huey removed that it because obvious what part of the problem was with the white rose.

    No sign of virus on any leaf on Don Juan

    As far as what temps we see the zig zagging, any that the rose has leaves for. It is hot here now, but the temps stay pretty even all year

    Kim, I can see that. Certain genes seem to win out regularly, but I might play with the purples just because mom loves them so much. And if I end up with pink...no big deal.

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    That's what you have to do Kippy. You just might hit on a winning combination. I don't blame you for wanting to play with them. Ralph Moore always said you can stabilize purple by crossing it with strong yellow, which is one of the directions my pollen pimping has been following this spring and summer. Good luck! Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So hear is an odd question

    Don Juan had a bunch of ugly balled blooms at the top of the arch were I did not feel like dragging a ladder to cut those nasties off.

    What do I notice today, all are fat green hips now.

    Could they have self pollinated? Would those likely be more like Don Juan since the flowers never opened?

    Might have to leave those hips up there and see what happens, as far as changing color.

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Not odd at all, Kippy. If the flowers actually never opened, then there was no possibility of foreign pollen being brought in. They would have to be self set. Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I noticed some orange hips on my boss roses that her gardener missed when cleaning the roses up. They are a nice orange color, can I pick them now or should I wait and hope the gardener does not see them for a while.

    She has a random collection, that includes several Icebergs so I thought it might be interesting to see what I get.

    But, now that the hips have some color, I bet her gardeners notice them too.

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    They are related to apples, Kippy. If they're coloring nicely, like other fruit, they are likely "ripe". Go pick them before the gardener or some marauding rodent finds them! Cut them open with a knife or your clippers, pry out the seeds and either plant them, or clean them as well as you can to remove the pulp and fibers before storing them in the vegetable crisper until the weather cools (around Thanksgiving here, USUALLY, Lord only knows this year...) and you can plant them when the temps are more suitable for germination. Word of warning...the fibers inside the hip are as bad as fiberglass. Don't get it on you. I guaranty your eyes and nose are going to itch like mad once you have them on your fingers so you'll be tempted to scratch them. DON'T! It's the same as getting your hands wet in the kitchen and having to use 'the facilities'. The fibers wash off your hands easily with soap and water, but they are miserable once gotten on you elsewhere. Been there too many times! Kim

  • Kippy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh man thanks for the warning on the fibers Kim! I cut 3lbs of jalapenos last night...made sure the bathroom was visited, the kitten was busy and I had my heavy gloves on!

    I did not realize I could try and plant them now Would putting a hips worth in a 1g with light cover of the cactus mix work good? Or is smaller better? I have a bunch of red party cups with drain holes to start veggies in. (the 1g's work out better using 2L bottles to cover)

  • roseseek
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The ideal weather for germinating rose seeds is seventy degrees and below, as long as it's above freezing, with rain. What can you keep watered easiest?

    What I've usually found best for me here, is to plant in 8" deep wooden boxes so there is room for the roots and a large enough soil volume to prevent it from drying out too quickly and frying. I usually plant the week of Thanksgiving when the weather and rains most often have cooperated. That should give you an idea of the conditions which have generally worked well.

    What seems as if it might be easiest for you to deal with? Many who raise rose seed in less hospitable climates, do it in cups or small pots under grow lights indoors. Fortunately, there really aren't many absolute wrong ways to do this, as long as you maintain what the germinating seeds desire...regular moisture, good drainage, temps at or below 70 degrees, at least half day sun and protection from being dug up and eaten by squirrels, rats and mice. Kim

  • amandahugg
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A lot of your questions can be answered by checking out www.rosehybridizers.org