Particularly if this is a fairly young plant -- I suggest that you just chop off the dead blooms.
No cane. Just cut the dead-heads or hips off.
Then the rose will quickly show you from where it wants to grow, and you can prune off above that.

When the rose is more mature, and particularly if you want to exhibit, you may want to cut lower.

Jeri

If you leave a couple of bud sites at the base of each candleabra branch, and one or two buds break from each branch, will you have a towering topheavy triffid, or will you have a nice bushy effect? It depends on how high is the branchpoint above the ground, how robust is the underlying cane, how long you expect the shoots to grow. So I think it's a judgement call that depends on the structure you're looking at. You might cut back each branch, or do that and also remove some of them entirely, or take off the whole thing. Probably the only rule is, you need to do more than minimal deadheading.

What Jeri said is right if it's a small plant. Also we might have different interpretations of the word. I use "candleabra" to mean several leafed branches coming from adjacent leaf axils. I think Jeri is talking about branching neck-like structures rather than normal leafed stems.

Yes, it really depends on how you want the bush to look overall. After the blooms fade, if you want the next blooms to be from where the other blooms were, then just cut off the spent blooms. If it's too tall or flopping you can cut it back lower.

I'm not familiar with WBY, but in the grandiflorias I have, I usually let them get as tall as I want and only cut back canes that are in a bad spot or can't support themselves.

AH! Michael! I was talking about big sprays. Those huge inflorescences.
If (particularly on a fairly immature plant) you try to cut down to a five-leaflet leaf, you may have very little cane left.

Jeri

Yeah, on reflection it sounds like the OP was talking about what Jeri understood. I guess I usually call those big complex inflorescences "trusses." I used to grow Granada. Once it produced a basal shoot that bore 40 (actually counted) full-sized flowers on one of those structures and only two proper compound leaves.

I had four huge basal shoots this summer that had about 18 flowers each. As well as branches shooting underneath the sprays with about six flowers each. They are so fat that they supported themselves. Jeri is right, if I cut at the first five-leaflet leaf, much of the cane would be gone. This is on a 2nd year plant. I've never seen anything like it before, so I didn't know where to cut. I have been doing what Jeri recommended, just cutting spent blooms. I don't know the technical terms for explaining all of this, sorry, :o)

This all from tea this Spring that included epsom & alfalfa pellets. Also, I used a local organic fertilizer from Tacoma called Tagro. I had 5 yards of Tagro Mix delivered this summer and I used this stuff on everything. I scratched around all of my roses and spread it out. With amazing results! The first time I used it on my garden. Really impressed! The Tacoma ARS Society recommends it too. I think I need to check into joining ARS. I would like to help out in the Pt. Defiance Rose Garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: City of Tacoma ~ Tagro

You know what taught me this? 'International Herald Tribune.'
It grows a lot more bloom than it does cane length.
If, when one of those monster sprays fades, you cut to a bud eye, there's just nothing left.
In frustration, I finally just started snipping off the faded blooms.
Suddenly the rose is twice as tall, with twice as much bloom.
It's not the "accepted" way to do things, but it works.

Jeri

I just remove the spent blooms from my WBY. It is quite tall and on the young side.

Same here Pac on Vancouver Island, do you think it is because of all the rain we have had this year, teehee!! I certainly have those candlabras. I am astounded at the height of them. In fact the tallest in particular is Tess of D'Ubenville(sp). I should have measured it. My guess is 11ft. Wellllllllllllll, do I really want this monster in a regular bed. Noooooooooooo! So I was thinking opposite to other peeps comments here, and that is, as soon as the candlelabra finishes blooming, then that sucker, is getting axed down to the size of the rest of the plant. Tess actually has two huge candlabras. The second one is even taller and just starting to bud out. Oh my nerves, what next.......
So there!! :smile

........and to add, other thoughts of mine! I am just wondering if it is all the alphalfa that is causing these monsters. I only started alphalfering this years for the first time. But having said this, then most of my other roses have improved tenfold.:)
Pauline - Vancouver Island

I agree with Jeri that a young plant will fare better if you don't prune too much off. Some roses produce many of these candelabras and if you removed them all, the plant would be almost leafless. A young plant could be weakened to the point of winter kill.

In my garden Outta The Blue produces practically 100% candelabras. Even at 4 years old, I try to remove some, but let others go with just deadheading.

I cut through the candelabra during the growing season. I'm not looking for exhibition blooms.

The picture in the link shows a rose that is all candelabra - - if you cut down to a 5 leaflet leaf, it would be at 3 inches above the ground. All the stuff tied up to the right is the rest of the inflorescence. Obviously, pruning it all off would be silly. By waiting just a bit until the rose pushed new growth, the rose itself demonstrated the deadheading options. I chose the top one because it kept the most leaves while removing the most hips in one whack.

The pictured rose is International Herald Tribune, not Wild Blue Yonder. But I have WBY, and I do essentially the same thing. Its inflorescences aren't as extravagant. I agree it's a great rose, btw, absolutely disease-free here, no rust, no PM (we don't have BS), floriferous right through summer, rapid repeat. It seems to keep up with Outta the Blue without the hard edge and yellow center which I have distracting.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:319926}}

bernoodle, that's EXACTLY what they look like!
How do you like Outta The Blue by the way?

I just got International Herald Tribune, I have Midnight Blue, Ebb Tide, and they are all kind of doing this. (I know they are all related.) I just moved a mini that was in my yard in the shade when I moved here, I moved it next to WBY in the sun and happily discovered that it is Sweet Chariot. Now I've got the whole family! :o)

Thanks for all of the wonderful advice everyone! I surely don't intend to exhibit anytime soon, I want lots of blooms! Now I know what to do.

moodyblue ~ Yes,this has been quite a summer up here! (Is it summer? Gee, I didn't quite notice it was summer!)

Pcnwgrdngrl, I think Outta the Blue is the best of Tom Carruth's blue roses in terms of vigor and repeat. That beast always has bloom. It's a rather hard, harsh fuchsia color. Midnight Blue produces huge sprays for me, with dozens of blooms in an inflorescence and then sets hips on every one. You must keep after them, all the Carruth Blues, to keep them deadheaded, or they won't repeat, which is my only complaint. They love Northern California. Outta the Blue is a bit more forgiving of sloth.