I really like growing clematis up into shrubs and have been growing them that way for several years. IME clematis and shrub pairings do best when they are paired well as to size, the shrub has relatively stiff branches, and the clematis has relatively long lengths between leaf nodes so that the clematis doesn't provide too much shade to the shrub. Rooguchi is a good choice as far as internodal length, and it isn't so large that it will smother your mock orange. However, I don't think that the mock orange will be a great choice for clematis support because it has quite flexible branches, so either the weight of the clematis pulls the shrub out of shape, or when it's windy the branches move around too much, making Philadelphus an instable support. It might work if you give the clematis a short trellis such as the one Mae Taylor shows above so that the lower part of the plant has some support and stability. The other issue is that Philadelphus tends to sucker IME and so may get much wider than expected and overgrow the clematis. I've found that spicebush/Lindera benzoin with its flexible branches doesn't work well, and Physocarpus/ninebark only works for a relatively light clematis in an area sheltered from wind. Some shrubs that have worked successfully: Hydrangea paniculatas 'Quickfire' (shown below with C. 'Little Bas') and H. paniculata 'Pinky Winky', both of which have stiffer branches than some H. p. selections. Thuja 'Sunkist' with C. 'Fascination' has more rigidity to its branches than many Thuja Lilac (Syringa x prestoniae) 'Donald Wyman' with C. 'Guernsey Cream'. This one was the first combo I planted, and the clematis is too close to the lilac so it grows up too much to the inside of the shrub, but I like the combination. An unnamed bell hybrid on blue spruce and Ilex verticilata (winterberry holly). This is a big vine, so though it is planted between the two, it wanders all over both of them. I've learned that shrub-clem combos work best for longest if I take half of the published shrub width and then add a couple of feet and plant the clematis there. Otherwise the clematis ends up more inside the shrub than on it like the 'Guernsey Cream' above. Initially I provide the clematis an inexpensive support such as bamboo, and in a couple of years the clematis will grow up into the shrub on its own. Rooguchi may need a bit of guidance since it doesn't cling on its own.

Talking abt. Spinosad, Dr. Manners @ FSC posted info. abt. it becoming less effective w/use, and he says it needs to be rotated w/other insecticides, to combat chilli-thrips... this is mainly for roses, but does apply to food crops also...he recommends IMIDACLOPRID,which comes in many forms---- it is a systemic, and foliar spray works best.... Merit 75, merit 2F, premise, bonide, dominion 2L..... orthene, tristar, safari, conserve & precise, avid, Bayer advanced 3-in-1 rose & flower, ortho & orthenex.... I swore off all these 3 years ago but am reconsidering that what with these chili-thrips decimating my roses.... and reading abt. them on Google, there are some are recommended for food-crops.... yikes.... some are spinosad, some are imidacloprid based... but it sounds like the key is, to rotate them..... sally

I finally finished my two rebar trees. I have to say.... I'm pretty darn proud of them! Don Juan winding around from the front and Henri Martin winding around from the back on both. Henri Martin is just a band, but he seems happy and is already leafing out and growing. This was a project that gave great satisfaction and sense of accomplishment. If working with metal is new to you... I highly recommend it! It's a great project for beginners. Very rewarding. :)

Hi Bryony. Would Marlorena's climate be the most similar to yours then? She has so many lovely obelisks... I would definitely look at her photos on other threads and try some that you like the look of. I think the most important thing about a feature rose is that it is particularly generous with blooming and disease free.... but that could depend more on your climate than the rose. For me, we have really high heat for several months. Very different from your climate. I lucked out in that Falstaff is one of the few that doesn't seem to crisp in high heat and it blooms a lot for me, but for others in colder climates it doesn't bloom that well. I played it safe by also putting Iceberg with it since Iceberg is always in bloom here and handles heat quite well. Can you go by a rose garden to see which roses do really well in your area? Aren't there quite a few rose gardens that have obelisks in England? If not... I would use Marlorena's obelisk photos from other posts as inspiration since her conditions may be similar to yours. Please post photos once everything is growing!