Well, here's an update on teh garden. There has not been a whole lot ot harvest, at least not in quantity. A squash here and there, herbs, some cherry toms and both raspberry bushes seem to have a disease so there was essentially nothing harvestable from them. We've also been harvesting lots of green onions and scallion and more carrots. I honestly don't have the time to keep track of ti all but here's some pics of whats going on!! Mint and the left over onion seedlings we had which didn't grow much in this container. We've also harvested the mint pretty heavily and its beginning to flower: The strawberry bed: Fortex beans...what the baby bunnies didn't eat: Chard and celery, also been harvesting pretty heavy: Oregano getting ready to flower. Still any good after flowering? Big beef toms: Cherry toms: Bush beans (wax), parsley, and a couple cucumber vines that haven't produced anythign yet. The bunnies ate 2 of the vines already: More pole beans, had to be replanted.....twice....thanks bunnies!!! More toms: This bed has 4 toms, 4 peppers, salsify and some shallots and onions. I've reseeded more carrots where the straw is but its just too damn hot to get anythign to germinate: This bed has 4 toms, 4 peppers, and 3 honey bear squash that are just forming buds: Big beef nest to brandywines which so far are setting about the same number and size of fruit, just brandywine was slightly later: More toms and peppers, there are also basil plants between all the toms but they are hard to see, genovese and purple. THe genovese is definitely out producing the purple variety: More toms..... Closeup of two cherry plants pruned to a single stem: More peppers, I planted lipstick, poblano and a color mix and I honestly don't know which are which. So far only two have actually set fruti and they both appear to be lipstick peppers: Peppers in the next bed, I also seeded more carrots in both these beds...twice, zero germination :( : Whats left of the cippolinis, some have nice bulbs, some have not much and growth has been really varied, even in the same bed: San marzano toms, these are also pruned to a single stem, producing great: This bed gets the least sun and it shows, it has green zebra, cherry and san marzano toms and 4 eggplants which are just starting to bud as well as a second planting of zucchini and the rest of the leeks that we didn't harvest as babies: There are two honey bear and 3 zucchini here, all of which have been producing well. We've already had 3 acorn squash and a handful of zuc's: Mystery squash growing in the compost...: Kenearly beans (dry shell), mostly an experiment: Second planting of chamomile...and cosmos: Butternut, pie pumpkins, second planting of watermelons, and corn (and yes I know I'll have to hand pollinate) None of these have blossoms yet: Watermelosn and charentais: My little ones sunflowers and eggplant, he planted them all by himself!!! Tomatilloes that have me stumped. The larger one has not produced a single fruit. THe smaller one has a decent amount but also hasn't grown ahrdly at all and they were seeded at the exact same time: And the artichokes. I don't expect much here. I think its just too hot and something has broken off most of the leaves of 3 of 4: Other than that our crab apple is so loaded its leaning over so even though I'm not a huge fan we are going to pick as many as are easily reached and make some jam. So there is my super long update, hoep everyone elses summer is goign great!

Ditto ditto what Karl said. I like to think of your question as equivalent to "Is cooking hard?" You can always delve deeper and deeper into the "art" of cooking, or in our case, growing roses. But if you know little about it, following a simple recipe will allow you to enjoy success. For roses, the basics are: 1) Pick varieties that are well-suited to your growing conditions--heat or cold-tolerance, resistance to diseases common to your area, etc. Local rosarians can steer you toward good varieties. 2) Sun: roses generally need 6 or more hours of direct sun per day to grow their best. A few varieties are a little more tolerant of partial shade or fewer hours. But all will do well in full sun. 3) Water: roses are thirsty plants. They grow and produce so quickly that they need adequate water to do the job. 4) Soil--this amounts to good drainage and healthy nutrients and soil structure: Clay is definitely not the best soil type for roses, but there are things you can do to improve it. Ann or others in your area can help. Amendments to the soil, and raised beds are two primary ways to improve drainage. Roses will not tolerate their roots soaking in standing water for long. 5) Fertilizer: because roses bloom and grow so much, they also need nutrition to do that. Organic sources are generally the most gentle and least likely to chemical-burn feeder roots. But artificial fertilizers can be good too if you follow the instructions carefully and avoid over-fertilizing. Organics have the advantage, too, of building healthier soil. 6) Pest control: insects, mites, and diseases (deer and rabbits, too, for some folks). For insects, best to treat only once you know the insects are present. For diseases, the best think is to start with varieties that are best suited to your region and are disease resistant. Local rosarians are the key to learning which. Then, preventive measures for diseases that are present in your area. 7) Winter protection where needed: Again, this depends on the varieties you plant and where you are growing them. Some roses need no protection whatsoever. And where I live, we hardly even have winter. All these few components of growing roses can be as simple or elaborate as you want to make them. But if you'll just remember that roses do best when these elements are taken into consideration, you'll be off to a good start. You're biggest initial concerns may likely be to ensure your soil is shaped up to be decently drained and soft enough for good root development, and that you plant where the roses will get enough sun. Those 2 factors will ensure that your roses have a good shot and growing and even tolerating other mistakes you make along the way. Mike

Susan, It can get discouraging at times but don't give up. I lost about 50 mature shrubs to the hurricanes about 6 years age. Then a year or so later, the remaining 120 bushes were demolished with Chili Thrips before I figured out what it was. But now I can recognize Chili Thrip damage and stop them before they get too far, and my rose garden of 150+ bushes is flourishing again. There are a couple of things that I have found in my 26 years of growing roses in FL that may be beneficial to you. 1. You probably know this but, start with roses on fortuniana rootstock. Some grow on their own roots but the best bet is fortuniana. FYI, I am going against my own advice and trying a few varieties own root lately. 2. Just because a rose is on fortuniana does not mean that it will thrive. Some roses simply do not like the heat and humidity even if they are on fortuniana while others thrive and continue to flourish through the summer. 3. While some varieties get established immediately and will be 7 feet at the end of the first year (like Brides Dream), other take a few years to get established and bloom quality and production improves with time (Pristine was this way for me). I give any rose on fortuniana three years 4. When first planted, water every day for a few weeks. Also, hold back on the high nitrogen fertilizer until the root system is established. On established plants, I use a combination of slow release organic and synthetic fertilizer once every 10-12 weeks. Sometimes if the established roses need a boost, I occasionally use a high quality liquid that I get special order from my local nursery. Once the roses are established, you can push the bloom cycle but not before. 5. For moderns, you have to spray every 2 weeks for fungus. I use Bayer Disease Control (not the combo product) 6. For established roses, water as needed (usually 2-3 time per week in the summer) and be sure to water beyond the drip line to encourage those shallow fortuniana roots to spread out. Some people swear by drip irrigation but I water from above in the early morning. 7. I only spray insecticides for Chili Thrips. Learn to recognize the damage and be prepared to spray for them if necessary. 8. Add organic matter and mulch if available. I am probably the only person left in my neighborhood who bags their grass because I like to let it dry out and spread around the roses. So in summary, water beyond the drip line in the morning, spray for fungus every two weeks and fertilize every 10-12 weeks. Growing roses in Fl can be very rewarding. We have a long growing season and no Japanese Beetles/ Roses that I have found which continue to bloom through the summer are Elina, Kentucky Derby, Brides Dream, Tournamnet of Roses, Belindas Dream, Heritage, Sunset Celebration, Pristine, Perfume Delight, Flo Nelson, Carefree Wonder, Iceberg, Moonstone, Midas Touch, Tropicanna. I'm sure there are others that I can't remember right now. Good...

I have Julia's Rose - it is in a prime spot where I keep an eye on it, etc. but it is still, going into its 2nd year, a little bitty thing. Burling told me recently that it would be much better grafted and tho I will coddle this one along, think I will opt for a grafted one. I tried to get Cafe from RU this spring but they are out. I can highly recommend Spiced Coffee! Beautiful coloration and its a strong plant. I have Distant Thunder and have its relative, Coffee Country, coming in April. Distant Drums is a similar coloration but more in the mauve tones. Judith