Don't know about more Miracid, but I just did the calcs for langbeinite for you ... Langbeinite can satisfy two things you need - potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg). Langbeinite is 18.8% K and 11.7% Mg. Your soil tests recommends 140 lbs/ acre Mg and 110 lbs/acre of potash (83%K) which translates to 91 lb/acre of K. For the K: 91 lb K/acre @ 0.188 lbs K/lb langbeinite leads to 485 lbs langbeinite/acre, or for your area ~14 lbs langbeinite For the Mg: 140 lbs Mg/acre @ 0.117 lbs Mg/lb langbeinite leads to 1196 lbs langbeinite/acre, or ~ 34 lbs for your area. If you use langbeinite at the amount needed for Mg, you will be adding about 2.5X as much K as called for. If you wanted to go this route, you might check with the soil lab if that amount added would put you into an excessive situation. In my experience those folks are typically very helpful and welcome calls for guidance based upon a test result. I have a quibble with the amount of Epsom salts they advise based upon their Mg recommendation. If you use the 140 lb/acre Mg needed, that would require 1420 lbs of Epsom salts, not 1270. If you use the 1270 lb rate for Epsom salts (9.86% Mg), you would be adding 125 lbs of Mg, not 140. In the above I used the 140 lb/are rate. In the end, I doubt it makes a lot of difference, but their conversion isn't consistent with the need they state. This post was edited by TXEB on Thu, May 23, 13 at 10:40

Your ph is perfect! Dont use peat moss, for any soil really! :) I would suggest to use good compost. When you have good compost and "living" soil, ph is not an issue, and will further buffer. Reports show with the micro life in the soil from adding compost allow uptake of every single macro and micronutrient even in soils with ph of 8. This was some study I saw somewhere reading around. It was somwhere they farmers never checked the ph or really knew what ph was. They used biochar and ash to fertilize the field. They found the composted manure they where also adding, buffered the high 8.5 ph of the ash that they where so heavily adding! Do you want to stay 100% organic? If so you may want to source all those things you listed-kelp,greensand,ect.. If not just use the funding for compost and some synthetic time release fertilizer or CRF with all needed nutrients- like Osmocote plus. The use of compost and organic material will add and build your soil, and give soil life buffering the ph like I talked about. The synthetic time release will not harm microlife and will cover any missing nutrients. I have some rows I use composted leaves only. I use all purpose miracle gro 24-8-16 when ever I see plants getting green-yellow from N deficiency. This system works great and has yielded me great results this season.

I also thought that lettuce was shallow rooted until I read this. LETTUCE < The development of the root system during the intervening period of 4 weeks was remarkable (Fig. 94). The taproots had extended their depths from about 3.5 feet to the 6- to 7.5-foot level. As before, however, relatively few long branches originated below the first 10 inches. The large laterals, which formerly had reached a depth of only about 2 feet, now extended well into the fourth foot of soil. Some occupied the fifth foot also, and a few of the longest reached a depthof over 6 feet. That growth was still occurring was shown by the long, unbranched, turgid root ends. The number of branches filling the soil was much greater than formerly and sublaterals were much more abundant. The total spread, however, had not been increased since the preceding examination. Thus a volume of soil, with a surface area of over 9 square feet and a depth of at least 5 feet-nearly 50 cubic feet-was thoroughly ramified by the roots of a single plant.> ROOT DEVELOPMENT OF VEGETABLE CROPS

Spotty higher pH can happen if you got the soil off of one particular section of the pile...that happened to contain the old B horizon with some limestone in it! In my case, I got the old subsoil on my lot, so it just kind of stank all around. * You said you targeted our phosphorus level higher than your own lawn. Is this due to the pH difference or something else? Is phosphorus bound in the soil at higher pH's, and is our pH (7.1 - 7.3) high enough to cause that? pH. If you look at the availability of P by pH, it drops as pH rises above seven. You're not that far over, the binding isn't extreme, so I just boosted the numbers a little bit. Your standard is around 220, most people with slightly acidic pH would be around 200. In your case, I wouldn't blink at anything between 200 and 300. I never use my own soil as a standard, per se, for anybody else's. Mine have given in to some experimental stuff, plus I've over-enhanced the gardens to match the (extreme) density and (extraordinarily high) performance I demand they support. My current P levels in the garden push 1,000. * What kind of quality issues can we expect from the low phosphorus level until it's corrected? Thin, weak, sparse growth that gets sick and dies easily, discolors easily, grows poorly, and generally doesn't look at all good. Installed sod would tend to thin out and die back over the course of a year or so if it isn't corrected, resulting in a lot of thin patches and blank areas. N, P, and K are the big three and absolutely have to be there in the correct proportions (N we take care of on an as-needed basis). * It sounds like the Milorganite is great stuff, but I'm very sensitive to odors, so I don't think it's a good fit for our lawn. If we used ferrous sulfate instead (being careful to sweep it off the concrete), what rate and frequency would you recommend? I assume we don't need to worry about lowering the soil pH too much with the ferrous sulfate since the starting pH is above 7.0. I'd be comfortable with ferrous sulfate (monohydrate or pentahydrate, it doesn't matter) at 3 pounds per thousand square feet in April, early October, and perhaps early November if the weather's holding. Keep an eye on the pH in this case, though, as iron sulfate is about an eighth as acidifying as pure elemental sulfur and does NOT require digging in to work! Never use iron during hotter months or when the soil's going to freeze solid for winter within two or three weeks of use.