Milk Spray on Roses
tonytony2
9 years ago
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9 years agoRelated Discussions
Spraying milk for red thread
Comments (9)I agree 100% with the comment above (i.e., San Antonio)! I am hoping to help anyone who has had an on-going problem with red thread. Believe me that I have tried it all. I struggled with an outbreak for over ten years on an acre of land. There is no way to explain how this took over my life at times considering the amount of lawn I had and the length of time I struggled with it. I have spent untold thousands of dollars. I even became friends with a research scientist for a company that produced a natural microbe product, in addition to the president of a company that produced a nitrogen product with beneficial microbes. I did a lot of legwork and made many professional connections over the years. While some of the more natural remedies might be helpful (rather than using commercial fungicides which sterilize the soil and seem to perpetuate disease because the population of beneficial microbes is disturbed), I eventually felt that only correcting the true crux of the problem would lead to a solution. In other words, to try and approach red thread with the mindset that you have to overcome, annihilate, kill ... will never work, or at least in my experience. You can try to do everything you want to kill it, but the only way to get to a true solution is to boost the health of everything involved (i.e., soil, plant, microbes, etc.)! It is no different than the immune system of a human being! You have to boost the entire system with nutrients and not just one or two or three. And shouldn't minerals and beneficial microbe diversity be the first line of defense for plant life, just as it is for us? For us, 80% +/- of our immune system is in our guts, and if we don't have the correct amount of good bacteria and the proper bacterial diversity, disease takes over and autoimmune diseases develop. I used this knowledge and applied it to my lawn. Yes, it is true that lawns low on nutrients will be more prone to red thread and other diseases. We all know that the general solution is said to be nitrogen. Well, I tried the highest nitrogen I could get for a couple of years. Still had red thread. I have spoken with university extensions who said that when it developed, one application of nitrogen should eliminate it and they had witnessed this. Still waiting on that. So, it may be true for some, but not for me. I think this could be because commercial nitrogen itself can possibly compromise the soil microbiome? That may be up for debate? Since I knew the soil itself was the problem, I started researching the basis of all life ... minerals. I came upon an article on the Net entitled, "Turfgrass Diseases: The Relationship of Potassium." Now I had already gotten a soil analysis which said my potassium was high. But I couldn't help feeling that perhaps this was a potassium problem? Perhaps there was potassium in the soil, but to get it into the plant is a different matter altogether? Could it be that getting it into the cells of the plant was the issue? Soil compaction problem? Root issues? So many possibilities, who could say. But again, it's the same for humans. You can take all the vitamins and minerals you want, but if your gut isn't able to assimilate them, you are going to develop a deficiency. Keep in mind I had tried milk, corn meal (both corn gluten meal and regular), natural fungicides with clove or beneficial microbes (which sometimes did help short-term, but the red thread always came back), chicken manure, compost tea (which I eventually realized could make the problem worse because tea has to be brewed and immediately applied or it may end up feeding the bad bacteria, or so I was told and seemed to experience myself), etc. Name something and I have tried it. In any event, I decided to take a shot and get some liquid kelp on the off-chance my soil had a compaction issue (which I knew it did) and had trouble getting potassium into the plant itself -- and would probably provide overall anything and everything I was missing ... like covering all the possible bases because kelp does so much. More than I could explain in a post. Well, here it is almost nearly November when I normally have a huge outbreak that takes out at least 1/3 of my acre -- and no red thread. In fact, I had no red thread from the time I first applied kelp throughout the rest of the summer. Any further nitrogen? No. Any other natural fungicides? No. I admit I did apply a bit of beneficial microbes one time made by Morgan Composting, Inc. (it is called Plant Protector and it has a picture of a cow on the container) which is an excellent product in itself. But the kelp I applied is made by Fertrell's. I did also apply granular chicken manure earlier in the season, but it never seemed to eliminate the problem permanently and it can also lead to a build-up of calcium in the soil if over-used for too long or too many years (so use in moderation within the realm of a rotational program)? Don't know if that's true, but just what I heard? I loved the chicken manure product made by Groganic and it helped tremendously, but let's face it, if your soil isn't right, nothing will help permanently for the long haul or lead to a permanent solution. The kelp is cost efficient and my lawn looks fantastically green, even approaching November. I do believe this is the end of my problem. Synopsis: if you want to get rid of red thread, at least try liquid kelp. If you want to do all you can to make your lawn look like a golf course, get kelp, granular chicken manure, beneficial microbes in the form of liquid like the one by Morgan, maybe a little bit of corn meal thrown in (some say corn gluten meal is better, some say regular is better ... it's still up in the air to me which one helps to grow the beneficial fungus more efficiently) ... Rotate these for a little while and I am confident you will be on your way to a permanent solution. I hope this helps!...See MoreMilk for Foliage Spray
Comments (2)Romy6, it is very nice to know I am not the only one use milk in our forum. I use milk 1 part milk (3.5% fat) and 9 part water. Caelian...See MorePreviously sprayed roses, can they adapt to life without spraying
Comments (19)I do not know how long blackspot takes to mutate. I am more familar with people getting a new race (variant, pathotype) of blackspot when they purchase an already diseased rose with a different race (varient, pathotype) of blackspot. Title: Identification of five physiological races of blackspot, Diplocarpon rosas, Wolf on roses Authors: Debener, T.; Drewes-Alvarez, R.; Rockstroh, K. Authors affiliation: Inst. Zierpflanzenzuechtung, Bundesanstalt Zuechtungsforschung, Kulturpflanze, Bornkampsweg 31, D-22926 Ahrensburg, Germany. Published in: Plant Breeding, volumn 117, pages 267-270, (1998). Abstract: "Differentiation into physiological races of Diplocarpon rosae, which causes blackspot on wild and cultivated roses, was investigated with single conidial isolates of the pathogen. Infection experiments with a simple excised leaf assay demonstrated differential interactions between single isolates and a set of 10 test rose genotypes. Differential reactions could be observed among rose varieties as well as between and within a wild rose species. Accordingly, five different physiological races can be identified among the 15 isolates tested. A breeding line and one genotype of the wild species Rosa wichuraiana were found to be resistant against all isolates tested. These data will be employed in further investigations on the genetics of blackspot resistance in roses and for resistance breeding programmes." ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Title: Response of selected old garden roses to seven isolates of Marssonina rosae in Mississippi Authors: Spencer, James A.; Wood, Opal W. Authors affiliation: Dep. Plant Pathol. Weed Sci., Miss. State Univ., Mississippi State, MS 39762, USA. Published in: Journal of Environmental Horticulture, volumn 10, pages 221-223, (1992). Abstract: "Seven isolates of Marssonina rosae (imperfect stage of Diplocarpon rosae) elicited different blackspot disease expression among 39 Old Garden Roses in laboratory tests. 'Felicite Parmentier' (Alba), 'Mme. Hardy' (Damask), 'The Bishop' (Centifolia) and 'Rosa Mundi' (Gallica) showed no symptoms. 'Cardinal de Richelieu' (Gallica), 'Hermosa' (China) and 'Leda' (Damask) were the most susceptible showing a cultivar ratings mean of 2.86 or more. The Wayne variant was the least virulent, causing susceptible reactions on only 46.1% of the roses. The Hinds variant was the most virulent and caused symptoms of 89.7% of the rose plants tested. The remaining five variants caused disease on 69.1% to 79.5% of the plants." ---------------------------------------------------------------- Title: Occurrence of pathotypes of Diplocarpon rosae on roses in Belgium. Authors: Leus, L.; Kegelaers, G.; Van Bockstaele, E.; Hoefte, M. Authors affiliation: Department of Plant Genetics and Breeding, CLO, 9090, Melle, Belgium. Published in: Plant Protection Science, volumn 38(Special Issue 2), pages 536-538, (2002). Abstract: "Monospore cultures of black spot (Diplocarpon rosae Wolf) were established from isolates collected on outdoor grown roses at different locations in Belgium. These monospore cultures were tested on rose cultivars and species with different levels of natural resistance to examine the possible existence of different pathotypes. For this purpose a screening protocol including scoring after artificial infection was developed on in vitro plantlets. Differences between the examined isolates proved that there exist different pathotypes of Diplocarpon rosae in Belgium."...See MoreLate Blight / spray milk
Comments (5)Here in Holland they are testing it as *preventive* use against late blight (with good results). It seems that the milk shifts to butyric acid on which the fungus which causes late blight doesn't grow. Thanks Hego. I did a quick Google search and find that not so much milk but butyric acid itself is being tested against P. infestans on both potatoes and tomatoes . So far I haven't come up with any results, though. Butyric acid is a both a disinfectant and emulsifier so it will be interesting to see what happens as this unfolds. Milk only contains about 2% butyric acid I found out, which is why several places have gone directly to using the acid itself. Most reports European and not US. Do you still have significant Late Blight problems in the Netherlands? Here in the US it's mainly in pockets in various parts of the country and the origin is usually from potato cull piles. It's the new A2 strain that entered the US from Russia in about 1990 that's been causing the most problems since the A1 was never that much of a problem here before that. Carolyn...See Morekittymoonbeam
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