The bulbs that are left after forcing seldom bloom. First, forcing a bulb stresses it, kinda like jet lag for humans. Second, it's unlikely that your tulips got as much sun inside while they were blooming nicely for you as they would have had outside in a garden; did you fertilze them? Most soil used for forcing bulbs doesn't contain any fertilizer. Third, many tulip hybrids are difficult to bloom year after year even under the best garden conditions. Finally, when planted shallow (as they usually are in forcing pots), tulips produce smaller (and larger quantities) daughterbulbs than when planted deep. Don't expect the bulbs left over from forcing to bloom unless they're about 10cm in circumference (1.25 inches in diameter).

First, daylilies are not bulbs - they are fleshy-rooted perennials that are incredibly tough and hardy and can be planted anytime of year the soil is workable. Not all iris are bulbs either and many varieties can be planted similar to the daylilies. Most true bulbs that bloom in spring need a period of vernalization to set roots and develop flower buds, that's why they are planted in fall. If insufficient vernalization is provided, they won't bloom, or at least not that first season in the ground. The pre-chilling of spring flowering bulbs in warmer climates achieves the same purpose. IME, January is pretty much the limit on when one can plant spring flowering bulbs and expect them to bloom that spring. And that may be difficult to accomplish in zone 5.....I'd imagine your soils to be pretty well frozen at this time of year :-) The other aspect is that spring flowering bulbs available for sale this late in the planting season tend to be leftovers and of lesser quality....the good stuff's already been sold! One needs to maintain dormant bulbs under proper storage conditions for them to remain viable and they simply don't last forever out of the ground. If you don't have any bulbs on hand to plant now, I wouldn't recommend searching any out. The combination of unsuitable planting conditions (frozen soil or snowcover), the lack of quality bulb sources and the lateness of the season will just serve to produce unsatisfactory, frustrating results. Wait until later when the soil is workable and the weather cooperative to plant perennials like iris and daylilies. And look for already started bulbs (in containers in leaf and often in bud) available at garden centers or other plant outlets when they come in season - February and March in my climate, perhaps a bit later in yours. Or wait until fall to plant the dormant bulbs for the following spring. And pretty much any spring flowering bulb will work in your climate. You just need to do some research on what are bulbs (corms, tubers, etc.) and what are really rooted or rhizomatous perennials.

Your bulbs will likely bloom right on schedule, give or take a little. It's not impossible for them to be damaged by this weather, but it would be extremely unusual. Daffodils, in particular, are very tough. In my opinion, you should uncover them and leave them alone. The fact is, there are very very many kinds of narcissus, and they bloom at different times. In my garden, they come up in pretty close to the order in which they bloom. So, my early ones are about six inches high, but my late ones have not all emerged yet. Last year, I had some type of narcissus blooming continually from the first week of February until almost May. I have two kinds of paperwhites blooming right now: Grand Soleil D'Or and Grand Primo (both are only hardy to zone 8).These paperwhites are new this year and I am so excited at how much they are going to extend the season.

Those are nice choices! Cyclamen, especially will give you some nice foliage when the hostas fade. Have you thought of spring emphemerals (sp?)? most are native and wonderful little plants. Bloodroots, hepatica, virginia bluebells, may apple, jack in the pulpits...and of course there is the woodland phlox, lovely little plants that, combined with bulbs, make the pre-hosta garden with delight! GGG