If the drooping leaves are all on the same branch: 1) Terminal buds and leaves turning brown and leaves wilting is symptomatic of Phytophthora, Botryosphaeria, or Phomopsis dieback. All three diseases spread rapidly and may threaten an entire plant. They are more active in warm summer conditions. i) Phytophthora causes the central vein of a leaf to turn brown and the discoloration extends to the petiole on tender new growth. The infections spreads outward from the midrib tissue and the leaf wilts. Infections are more severe on azaleas. Some varieties of rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, Nova Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, PJM). Control of the disease is difficult. Since the infection goes from the roots to the tips, when you see the symptoms it is too late. To prevent it, use a raised bed with lots of sphagnum peat moss. Prevention with fungicides and careful control of exposure to high humidity may be practical. ii) Botryosphaeria causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch. Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. iii) Phomopsis symptoms vary from leaf spots to chlorosis and then browning of leaves which then wilt. Browning streaks extend down the stem to a wound. Fungicides such as metalaxyl (Subdue) should control an outbreak. Sanitation and applying a fungicide after pruning may provide control. 2) Drought can cause entire branches or entire plants to die. We have had several years of drought here and we observe that if rhododendrons and azaleas are not watered during a drought some plants will die, but others will just have one section of the plant die. It seems to be the plants way to conserve what little moisture it has. 3) Bark split is most commonly caused by an early autumn frost while the sap is still high in the plant, or a late spring frost when the sap has already started to rise. For this reason it is dangerous to feed nitrogen to a rhod odendron or azalea that could stimulate growth through to autumn. Don't use nitrogen after mid-June. When the bark is frozen, sap cannot get through and the bark splits. For this reason always keep mulch away from the trunk of plants. Bark split damage can be treated with grafting wax to prevent fungal and insect damage. 4) Ends of branches die when rhododendron or azalea borer larvae tunnel in a stem. This affects the portions of the plant away from the roots from where the borer larvae is in the stem. Borers have done their damage when you see the wilting and usually it is best to cut off the affected region. The requires removing the damaged branch from the hole where the eggs were laid at the base of the dying branch to remove any larvae before they become adults and infect more plants. The parts that are cut off should be destroyed to kill the larvae that are in them. Borers are prevented by following a spray schedule (timing is very critical) for borers with chlorpyrifos or lindane. Your county agent can help you with this information

They really aren't going to like being in full sun. if you can, I'd cut away the dead growth and move them to a part-shade location. If they are only a foot tall, they ought to be easy to dig out since the root ball will be shallow.

This is the post I was trying to make before, without the pics in case they're what's causing it to time out? **** I just now watered the roots with 20G of water (ten 2G jugs with sprinkler type heads, with 2-3 minutes between every 4 gallons while I filled up). It rained for about 15 minutes and it's been overcast all day, so I didn't water the leaves... just the roots. It still has a lot of soft green wood (pics below), so I HOPE it isn't too far gone :-( What do you think going forward, 8-10G /day in addition to rain? If it doesn't rain, should I pour 2G over the leaves, too? Or just focus on the roots? Should I remove the brown leaves? What about branches with no green on them? This is only my second time with a transplanted layer... the first one didn't have any real problems at all, I just gave it 2G once a week! But it hasn't bloomed yet, so while the leaves look OK I don't know "for sure" that it's healthy. And the first ones that I planted (bought from a store) were back when I had more money than sense, so I doubt that I even watered them that much! This is my first experience with one that's not getting enough water, so I really appreciate the advice.

Almost every grower has experienced a scenario where their plant begins to droop at some point. In my case, my orchid leaves drooping. The plant is in distress if its leaves are limp and dangle limply from the stem. Drooping weed can be cured, but diagnosing the problem before it becomes irreversible is critical. Generally, underwatering and overwatering, inadequate or too much exposure to the sun, improper temperatures, drainage issues, pests, and diseases are all common causes of orchid leaves drooping. This article includes a thorough description of orchid leaves drooping and straightforward ways for resolving the problem. Let’s check them out. Are Orchid Leaves Drooping Normal? Drooping orchids are easy to notice, and you don’t need any degree to figure out what’s wrong with them. The most important thing is to be calm! Your orchid leaves drooping does not necessarily mean the plant is dying. Older leaves may yellow and fall off naturally as they age. But you should be wary if this happens frequently — or to younger leaves. When plant leaves turn yellow, it’s scary, but it’s not the end of the world. As a plant grows older and produces new leaves, it’s typical for a few leaves to turn yellow, droop, or even fall off. So, if your plant appears to be in good health overall, some yellow and droopy leaves aren’t a cause for alarm. Why Are My Orchid Leaves Drooping? Orchid leaves droop to signify that the plant isn’t doing well, and there are several reasons for this. I’ll go through some of the most prevalent causes, as well as what you can do to address them. 1. Underwatering the Plant Unfortunately, we sometimes ignore our plants due to our busy schedules. And when they go unnoticed, they do not receive the attention they require. As a result, if your orchid doesn’t get enough water, it will start to droop. When the potting soil is entirely dry, the problem occurs. When a plant is underwatered, the dry soil prevents it from receiving the necessary nutrients and moisture to stay firm. You can tell if it is underwatered by the crispy, dry, and brown leaf margins that finally begin to wilt. However, this is only a temporary issue, and your orchid leaves will recover after you give them plenty of water. Solution When you inspect your plant in the morning, check the moisture in the soil. After that, check the tip of your finger by sticking it 1 – 2 inches into the dirt. If there isn’t any soil sticking to it, the plant needs to be watered. The plant should be watered from the top down until the soil is moist. Then, allow excess water to flow via drainage holes in the container. Water sparingly and frequently to keep the soil from drying up completely. 2. Overwatering the Plant Overwatering could be one of the causes of drooping. It can happen if you don’t check the moisture level in the soil. When there is too much water in the soil, any air pockets from which the root might extract oxygen are destroyed. When this happens, the roots lose their ability to absorb water and nutrients. Inspect the root for root rot if you suspect overwatering as the reason for drooping. Note: Squishy roots and a terrible odor identify root rot. On the other hand, healthy roots will be solid and white. The soil should be damp but not wet to provide the plant with enough moisture to receive nutrients from the potting mix. Solution Stick your finger an inch or two into the potting mix to see if the plant needs to be watered. The plant can endure one or two more days without water if it feels damp. If the soil appears to be dry, dampen but do not wet it. The most effective solution is to report the houseplant. But, first, get a container with drainage holes and a fresh soil mix. These pores aid the drainage of excess moisture from the soil. 3. Inadequate Lighting Your plant may not be getting enough light to photosynthesize, resulting in orchid leaves drooping. The leaves will begin to droop if you shift your orchid to a position that does not receive enough sunshine. The amount of light required will, however, vary depending on the variety of orchids you have. On the other hand, orchids are light-hungry plants that require 12 to 14 hours of indirect sunshine every day of the year. Because you can’t precisely shift your windows, getting the appropriate quantity of light for a houseplant might be difficult. Some houses have a lot of natural light, while others have very little. Nevertheless, you can pinpoint the orchid’s sweet spot for light with a bit of research and perhaps some trial and error. You should choose the location based on the plant’s requirements. Solution Place your orchid in east or north-facing window with plenty of indirect sunlight. Fluorescent tubes are one of the most significant artificial light sources for plants in the home if your room doesn’t get enough natural light. Did you know that succulents such as aloe vera always necessitate the right source and right amount of light to grow into a healthy plant? 4. Varying Temperatures Orchids are less resistant to temperature extremes. Your orchid will begin to droop if it is exposed to temperatures that are too chilly for it. Orchids thrive in temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Solution Take temperature readings in the area where you wish to put your plant. Move your orchids to places where they will be kept warm. Keep orchids away from the air cooler’s or window’s cold airflow. 5. Drainage Issues Drainage problems could be one of the reasons for your orchid’s drooping leaves. Drainage is essential for potted plants to avoid root rot caused by standing water. If the drainage in your potting container is insufficient, your plant may succumb to root rot and perish. When there are no drainage holes, the water from the top layer of the soil evaporates, leaving the soil dry and flaky. But the bottom of the pot is already moist because the surplus water has nowhere to go. As a result, we increase the amount of water we add by judging through the topsoil, soaking the entire soil. Make sure your orchid pots have drainage holes, which are essential for most indoor plants since they help remove excess water, avoid salt and fertilizer buildup, and aid in soil aeration. Solution Place your plants in pots that have drainage holes in the bottom so that water may flow away. Because stone, pebbles, and clay shards absorb excess water, they should not be placed at the bottom of the pots. Constantly check to see if your plant is sitting in a puddle of water. 6. Transplant Stress When you relocate a plant, you destroy many roots, which puts the plant under stress due to transplant shock. As a result, it’s rather common for such a plant to wilt shortly after being moved. If you’ve just moved your orchid, this could be one of the reasons for its droopy leaves. Transplant shock causes low soil hydration, which makes it difficult for healthy plant roots to function effectively in a new environment for a few days. The good news is that transplanting shock only lasts a few days, so your orchid will quickly recover its original position. Solution Moving plants in the spring and fall are one option when the temperatures are lower and the plants are not fully grown. After you’ve repotted the plant, the best approach is to give it plenty of water. Wait patiently as it may just take a few days for a plant to recover from transplant shock. Give it some time and regular attention, and it might come back on its own. 7. Pest and Disease If the leaves of your orchids are drooping, it might be a sign of pest or disease damage. Aphids, mealybugs, scales, spider mites, and thrips are insect and mite pests that attack orchids. These insects feed on the sap from the leaves, making them appear droopy. Whereas diseases prevent them from consuming enough water and nutrients, resulting in severe nutrient insufficiency. The problem arises because the nutrients required for the leaves to flourish have been depleted. A fungal, bacterial, or viral infection can cause these disorders. Your best chance of recovering a plant and preventing its spread to others in your garden is to identify the problem as soon as possible. Solution Each disease has its treatment, but the first step is to keep the affected plant away from other plants if at all feasible. Rinse and wash these bugs away using insecticidal soap or neem oil regularly. It protects plant tissues from harm. Examine the entire plant regularly, including the underside and overside of the leaves. Make sure the foliage is free of pests and symptoms of illness. Tips to Take Care of Orchids There are several tips and tricks to take care of orchid plants. I will share some must-know tips to take care of orchids here. Let’s check them out. Keep your orchid plants moisturized, but not to the point of drowning. Changing the habitat of your orchid regularly is not a good idea as they have a hard time adapting to shifting conditions. If you see that the plant is no longer blossoming, trim the stems that aren’t blooming. Soon, the plant will produce healthy plants that will grow into beautiful flowers. Avoid placing the orchids near heaters, air vents, or other areas where chilly air could enter. Extreme temperatures might destroy them by drying them out. Keep orchids in smaller pots so that their roots do not break or become damaged. If there is too much space, the orchid will focus its efforts on finding a new surface to cling on rather than flowering. Repot orchids every couple of years or whenever the roots begin to look congested.