Kokinsai Satsuki Azalea Reddish/Brown Foliage

11 years ago

I bought a small Kokinsai Satsuki Azalea cutting (apx 2 yrs old) from a local bonsai lady. From what I can find about this cultivar it is an evergreen shrub. If I understand correctly, that means it should have green foliage all year long but the leaves of my plant are all a sort of reddish brown color, at least around the outsides of the leaves. It has been this color, on the whole plant, since I got it at the beginning of May about 5 weeks ago. The foliage is sparse but the leaves are not curling or falling off and there are no spots or holes or yellowing or any other symptoms that I have read about. It is in a bonsai training pot apx 6" with a well-draining bonsai mix. I water it with distilled water with apx 1 mL of vinegar to lower the pH of our water (which is apx 7.4). I have not fertilized yet as I have not seen anything that would resemble vigorous growth. The plant is in dappled sun (from a big tree) with 2-4 hours of morning sun. I am in Chico, CA USDA zone 9b.

Any help or input would be greatly appreciated!

Angela

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Comments (9)

rhodyman
11 years ago
It looks like R. stenopetalum 'Macrosepalum'. R. stenopetalum 'Macrosepalum' is the only "evergreen" azalea species reported to be moderately or highly fragrant. It is actually deciduous, but it is classified in Subgenus Azaleastrum, which is the group with all of the evergreen azalea species. Other evergreen azaleas are sometimes semi-deciduous or deciduous, especially in certain environments. This is an unusual species. It is normally 4-foot-tall shrub with narrow, ribbon-like evergreen leaves, 3 inches long and 1/2 inch wide, and rose-pink flowers with deeply divided petals. The variety 'Linearifolium' (formerly R. macrosepalum 'Linearifolium' or R. linearifolium) is somewhat smaller, 3 feet tall, and the leaves are deciduous and 3 inches long. But the flowers are even more curiously shaped than those of the species; they have 1 1/4-inch-long sepals that overshadow the petals. The flowers of this variety are fragrant and have been bred in several colors; in one, 'Polypetalum', flower petals and leaves are so similar in size that the plant seems to have pink and green leaves.

Actually yours looks like a hybrid, Koromo Shikibu -- (a R. stenopetalum 'Linearifolium' hybrid) -15F, 3'. This spreader is distinguished by its light green, hairy leaves that take on a red tinge in winter. Fragrant flowers are lavender with rose-violet flecks and dark tips. Formerly called macrosepalum, its strap-like petals, measuring 1/2'' in width and 1 1/2'' in length, provide a nice contrast to the broader lobed flowers of most azaleas. Hence, the red tinge the foliage is the winter foliage and is a feature, not a problem.
aredmon48
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you so much for your response.

So, to make sure I'm clear, you do not think this is a Kokinsai? I was going completely off the tag that came with the plant.

How long would winter foliage color persist? I am still unclear about growth habits and how to tell last year's growth from new growth (or any other growth for that matter). I have not yet seen any new growth but I have only had the plant for 6 weeks.

I just brought the plant in to take new pictures to compare. It is apparent that the plant had dropped a lot of leaves and what little green was there is mostly gone. Is this normal? It seems concerning to me. It has grown almost a whole inch though. It measures 11" from the base when I got it but about 12" now (hence the hard time fitting it into my little photo box). That's a good sign, right?

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I've seen just one hedge maintained that way over many years, may have something to do with the care involved :) Same approximate weather as your zone, there is an evergreen azalea hedge either side of a long sidewalk leading to the doors of a church that I pass on my way to my mothers house about 100 miles from here. I don't mean to discourage you, but it's quite formal, appropriate in front of the very formal building. It looks wonderful for a few brief weeks in Spring, is pruned after new growth follows blooming where it then looks a little sparse, browning (or woody, I haven't parked to inspect) in some areas where it's been cut back to continue the angular lines, will fill out again closer to late summer. I wouldn't presume to impose my personal taste on you, but other than those few weeks around Easter, I don't find it an effective use of azalea. I'd rather see a boxwood shaped that severely lining the walk if hedging were wanted there, and azaleas in their natural shape planted nearby. I'm sorry but I can't tell you specifically which azalea has been used, only that its a deep rose pink, evergreen, and clearly tough as nails as it's endured that treatment many years now.
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Satsuki Azaleas like the ones you selected tend to be "dwarf" and do well here. Encore Azaleas also do well but many of them get much biggger than Satsukis and their leaves are much larger. Here is a website with a list of Encore Azaleas sorted by size: http://www.encoreazalea.com/collection/encore-azaleas-by-size Slightly larger than Satsukis, Kurume hybrids like Hino Crimson (nice red, small leaves), Hino de giri (nice magenta; small leaves) and Christmas Cheer (reddish with awesome fall foliage) also do well. You should stop by the Dallas Arboretum now or as soon as possible; their azaleas are starting to bloom and that might give you ideas.
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Yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins is called chlorosis and is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Many conditions can be responsible for an iron deficiency. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency or too much phosphorus in the soil. Iron is most readily available in acidic soils between pH 4.5-6.0. When the soil pH is above 6.5, iron may be present in adequate amounts, but is in an unusable form, due to an excessive amount of calcium carbonate. This can occur when plants are placed too close to cement foundations or walkways. Soil amendments that acidify the soil, such as iron sulfate or sulfur, are the best long term solution. For a quick but only temporary improvement in the appearance of the foliage, ferrous sulfate can be dissolved in water (1 ounce in 2 gallons of water) and sprinkled on the foliage. Some garden centers sell chelated iron, which provides the same results. Follow the label recommendations for mixing and applying chelated iron. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency is initially the same as iron, but progresses to form reddish purple blotches and marginal leaf necrosis (browning of leaf edges). Epsom salts are a good source of supplemental magnesium. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. If the soil is too alkaline, acidity may be increased by adding flowers of sulfur (powdered sulfur) or iron sulfate. I add 1 tablespoon of sulfur powder around the base of any plant showing signs of chlorosis. Around established rhododendrons and azaleas, do not disturb the shallow roots. Sprinkle the sulfur under the mulch and then replace the mulch. Do not use aluminum sulfate. Aluminum can build up in the soil to toxic levels eventually. One very common source of chlorosis is when lime leaches out of concrete, such as from a foundation or walkway, making the nearby soil more alkaline. This problem decreases each year as the concrete ages. An annual application of sulfur can compensate for this problem. If you are on the west coast, you soil can actually be too acidic. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. In the western USA where many rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well. Here is a temporary tonic for chlorosis: Purchase a bag of Epsom Salts crystals (magnesium sulfate) (available in bulk at farm-and-feed outlets), and a bottle of FULLY Chelated Iron & Zinc (this is a very concentrated liquid - the chelation means it is in a form that can be readily absorbed by the plant); In a one gallon watering can, put in 2 Tbsp. of Epsom Salts crystals and 2 Tbsp. of Iron and Zinc liquid - fill with warm water and stir to dissolve; Sprinkle this over the rhododendron - by that I mean drench the leaves with the solution and pour the remainder around the drip line of the root ball.
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rhodyman
11 years ago
Where in the world are you? Is it summer or winter, is it tropical or temperate?
aredmon48
Original Author
11 years ago
I am in Chico, CA. USDA zone 9b. I'm in the Central Valley so it gets quite hot (100+). The plant is in dappled sun (from a big tree) with 2-4 hours of full morning sun.
rhodyman
11 years ago
The plant seems to be quite confused. Perhaps it was forced. That will completely confuse a plants sense of seasons.
aredmon48
Original Author
11 years ago
Is there anyway I can help it? Should I fertilize? Maybe that would help it put on new foliage. Or should I leave it be?

Thank you for the help!
rhodyman
11 years ago
Don't force it. It needs plenty of light, not full sun, but not full shade.
It may have plenty of fertilizer depending upon the nursery. The most important single thing is drainage. The pot must be well drained. Repot if it isn't. If there are any signs of chlorosis (yellowing of leaves between green veins), address that. Do not overwater. It is better to let it dry slightly and then water thoroughly. Tap water can build up salts in the soil. Rain water is much better.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow azaleas
aredmon48
Original Author
11 years ago
Thank you for your help! Those are all the things I have been doing so I will just wait and see how it does.

I looked up the nursery that the plant came from originally. Their site said "All plants are raised or grown-on in Sonoma County, and hardened-off to help ensure long life." I looked at the pictures and it seems everything is outside but there were a few greenhouses. The nursery is in the same USDA zone as I am. It doesn't seem that it was forced but who knows what happened. I guess I will just do my best and wait and see!

Thank you again for all of your help. I really appreciate it!

Angela
aythakur1
8 years ago
Angela, the Satsuki Ko Kinsai (Ko = Small in Japanese) is a sport of Kinsai (in the US, it is often called Polypetalum). It has narrow reddish orange petals and the leaves are much narrower and smaller than the ones on Kinsai. Because of its being a sport, it is much weaker than its progeny. It should be dwarf and compact. Picture you have looks more like R. stenopetalum (previously R macrosepalum or Big Sepal Azalea) forma 'linearifolium', variety 'Seigai' (Spider Azalea).

Dr. A.K. Thakur

Kokinsai Satsuki Azalea Reddish/Brown Foliage

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Kokinsai Satsuki Azalea Reddish/Brown Foliage

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