diygardener, reasons for failure to bloom are too much shade, overfertilization which can lead to formation of foliage in place of flowering, pruning too late in the season thus removing the flower buds, drought in summer when they would be setting buds for the following year. And, failure to deadhead which can lead to heavy flowering every other year.

So, from your description, I'm trying to picture their site in front of your bays....Are they in heavy shade? Is there something about the placement near the construction of your house that shelters them from rains, making the site dry? (I had a rhododendron here in a corner location next to my front porch that actually stayed dry in winter...very hard condition to create in coastal washington.)

Brown leaf edges usually indicates lack of water rather than winter injury...have you paid more attention to water with that bed with the addition of your perennials?

The Rhodies face west so there is a lot of intense afternoon sun. In the morning they're shaded by the house and a tall dogwood. It is true that I now have soaker hoses in those beds, which I never had before. So maybe all they've needed is more water!! But wouldn't the same be true for my azaleas, which also face west? These azaleas are right next to one of the Rhodies and they've bloomed gloriously for the last three years. Do rhododendrons need more water than azaleas? It's also surprising to me that I'd be getting blooms now, because when I drive around the neighborhood, where there are plenty of rhododendrons, they've been in bloom for a good two weeks already. Other than giving them a steady supply of water is there anything else I can do to encourage blooms? Thanks for your help!

Are your plants mulched? Mulching is thought to be the cornerstone to successful rhododendrons and azaleas. In the wild, these plants gow with a blanket of leaves over their roots, while the lower layer decomposes, a new supply is constantly falling to replace those which become 'soil'. There is a product here that I buy called Gardner & Bloome soil amending compost that comes in a compressed bale....Plants love it, and I mulch and top dress with it when my own compost doesn't go far enough.

Rhododendrons and azaleas have basically the same water and soil requirements, but maybe your smaller leaved azaleas have been more tolerant of dry conditions....

The bed has about three inches of cedar mulch. Perhaps I'll look for the compost you recommend. And I'll definitely make sure they get enough water. We'll see what happens (next spring)!

Cedar isn't the best mulch, though it will certainly do. (Small) pine nuggets/bark is better, doubly so if composted some first. Never use fresh sawdust or woodchips, or pure peat. Sawdust and wood chips suck nitrogen as they decompose; you can use them if you compost them seriously for several weeks or month first. Just piling them for a year or three will mostly work too - look how much it looks like soil to decide if it's ready. If mulching with shredded hardwood or wood chips (especially if not composted first), provide nitrogen (within limits so as not to burn the roots). Osmocote is a slow-release nitrogen that's excellent for rhododendrons and azaleas. Apply in the spring, not summer.

Actually, I use fresh uncomposted woodchips and shavings all the time, both as a soil amendment and mulch, since the woodworking shop in my household generates huge quantities that need to be deal with somehow. As they rot they may use nitrogen, but I just make sure that I add a slow release nitrogen source at the same time (usually aged manure, but sometimes blood meal.) I find that the plants are fine with it and I have some of the best soil in any garden I've visited. I've done this with a variety of shrubs and perennials as well as rhodies and not seen any problems.