Petrushka, they seem pretty reluctant to branch. Except perhaps with extreme events. I had a very tall P. lacerum up high in a coconut. Lightning struck that coconut plus 5 others nearby. The coconuts were cooked (reddish brown ooze seeping out of the trunks) and the stem of the P. lacerum was jellified. But strangely enough there were signs of shoots in some of the leaf axils that seem to have survived. Only 2 of those ended up surviving to today (about 5 years after the lightning) but they're still very small, about 20 cms stems. They must have been already developing before the lightning strike, but no idea how the current passed down the main Philo. stem and by-passed them. I've found that sometimes when a (Philo) vine is covered with mulch new shoots are produced in the leaf axils. Although, when I had a 4 metre long stem (from a fallen tree) I laid it on the ground in a mostly shady spot thinking I'd get a whole lot of new plants from each leaf axil. The growing tip rocketed off, the rest of the stem rotted. So, I mainly rely on outright cuttings, greater chance of success. There's a few where I've placed the pot at the base of a tree and when the plant get up a metre or two I cut it away and let the base in the pot resprout. And just recently I cut a gap half way through the stem of a P. lacerum and will see in time whether it branches, or just heals. Yes, that Philo in the last photo is a Tree Philo, P. bipinnatifidum. They're one you can't grow from cuttings, unless the "cutting" already has established roots. But there's no reason the small plant/ground cover around it would be harming it.

Are you able to post some pics? It's not about the length of the pieces, but about the growth nodes available on each piece. Each node has the potential to create a whole new plant. The growing tips of each vine are the most vigorous but other sections of vine can be propagated, and have a much higher chance of success if there is at least 1 leaf. The younger the section of vine you are trying to propagate, the higher rate of success you will have. Ideally, you would want the growth tip with 2-3 lower nodes, like this: There are 2 nodes between my fingers and the cut. You can see the "root buds" at each point where there was a leaf. Both of these nodes should make roots and send out a new growth tip. If all goes well, the original tip will keep growing, and there will soon be 2 more tips from these nodes when they take root. Sometimes the node closest to the cut will rot and not take root. For this reason, I almost always use cuttings with 2 nodes as roots. For this particular plant, I have found no difference in success rate from rooting cuttings in water or by just sticking them in pots with other plants (in the dirt.) Both are about 99% effective for growth tips, less but equally (water vs. soil) effective for mid-stem cuttings.

Why would anyone do something as silly as repotting a healthy tree? I dunno - why use fertilizer on a healthy tree or change the oil in our cars. To keep things running smoothly and prevent future problems perhaps? Root congestion is an insidious pilferer of plant potential in terms of growth rate, vitality (health), the plant's ability to defend itself, and eye appeal. At about the time a plant can be lifted from its pot with the root/soil mass intact, root congestion is already taking a toll. Potting up only partially relieves the stress caused by being rootbound, but a full repot with bare-rooting, root pruning and a change of soil fixes it entirely. Forever - as others note, the (adventitious) root nubs you see needn't be covered. They will soon contact the soil and take root there. Where the plant naturally occurs, and when these adventitious roots find their way into the soil, it is a big advantage for the plant because it increases the area over which the plant can find water and nutrients. In a container, the advantage of having the roots make it into the soil is very limited, practically speaking there is virtually no advantage other than they might help serve to keep the plant propped up. That means, if you don't like their appearance (they can start growing anywhere on the plant and won't always be as tidy as the ones in the image) you can snip them off flush to the point where they attach without harm. You can allow whether or not you like how they look (where they appear in the future) to determine whether they stay/go. Have you been fertilizing? It's an important part of any containerized plant's care. Al

I water the plant once a month ....... However, I don't keep a regThat would make sense as low light in combination with the excess water in the grow medium would certainly increase the likelihood and severity of the oedema disorder.specially if after a month the hint you get that it needs water isn't wilt, you're seriously over-watering or the the medium holds too much water. You really don't want to be in a situation where you have to battle the grow medium for control over your plant's vitality (health). There are 2 ways to effectively limit the amount of water a grow medium can hold. The first is to use a grow medium with a VERY large fraction of coarse material (like pine or spruce bark); and the second is by using simple science to trick all or most of the water into leaving the pot. When you get to the point where you know how to make a grow medium that allows you to water as much as you want w/o the plant paying an over-watering tax in the form of unrealized potential or root diseases; or, you can trick excess water into leaving the pot, it's a game changer. It will significantly increase your ability as a plant nurturer and will increase the amount of personal satisfaction you get from your growing experience. This is one of the two types of grow media I use. The odd items are for size comparison. I would assume the issue lies with the lack of light in the room. That would make sense as low light in combination with the excess water in the grow medium would certainly increase the likelihood and severity of the oedema disorder. I remember it's an organic seaweed plant food, and I believe I was told it's rich in nitrogen. Would you suggest a new one if you reckon that's also an issue? I don't know of any seaweed emulsion that would be appropriate as a stand-alone fertilizer. Many are missing several nutrients and more often than not the macronutrient content (N+P+K) are very low. On another thread, I was helping a lady from Germany with her fertilizing. In her search for a fertilizer similar to what I use, she discovered a fertilizer called "PLNTS Nutrition". It is a complete fertilizer in an appropriate ratio with NPK %s of 6-2-4. It has all nutrients essential to normal growth. Find it at https://plnts.com/en/product/plnts-nutrition-500ml It is a complete nutritional supplementation program from a single container. I used to give the plant fertiliser every time I water it, however, I've been told this is incorrect, and the plant should be fertilised only once per season, excluding winter. I've never questioned the fertiliser as it was recommended by the plant shop lady, who seemed knowledgeable. No one can offer meaningful advice re what kind of intervals you should fertilize at unless they can evaluate the grow medium you use and take into consideration your watering habits. If they try, it's a good bet they don't know much about plant nutrition. If a grower is watering correctly, so the entire soil column gets well-wetted and at least 20% of the water applied exits the drain hole, most of the fertilizer used will be flushed from the medium and through the drain hole. That is the proper way to water if one wants best results. Because watering intervals can change drastically with the seasons, it makes most sense to fertilizer about every 4th time you water ...... again, this is if you are watering correctly. This brings us back around to the right type of grow medium allowing you to water correctly which makes fertilizing so easy anyone can do it with great results. To keep track of who (which plant) needs fertilizer, drop a marble, button, other item in the pot when you water. When it's time to water the 4th time, pick up the items and fertilize, and start the cycle over. I forgot to mention I never water the soil itself. I water inside the pot, and it gets absorbed (pot in a pot kind of situation). Where I mentioned flushing the soil above, the reason is two-fold. One, it keeps the level of total dissolved solids (salt) in the soil low. High levels of salt limit water uptake and nutrient uptake as well, given nutrients must be dissolved in the water taken up by roots. The second is it prevents a buildup of certain nutrients (which depends on the amount of those nutrients in the fertilizer you use. Too much of nutrient A can limit uptake of nutrient B and perhaps C and D as well. A high level of phosphorous limits uptake of calcium, potassium, copper, zinc, and especially iron, which is why bloom-booster fertilizers shouldn't be used for containerized plants. Your practice of watering from the bottom ensures that ALL dissolved solids (salts) from tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the soil, causing limited water/nutrient uptake and potentially/eventually reversing the flow of water into cells. A high level of salts in the soil will eventually PULL water from plant cells by the same mechanism that curing salt pulls water from meat cells, like ham/bacon/sausage. I'm terrified of reporting it as I've been told Philodendrons are quite sensitive to reporting and don't like having too much space in their pot, which might lead to root rot. I'm not surprised you're anxious about the thought of repotting or even doing anything to mess with roots. At least 99% of hobby growers have what seems to be a natural fear of anything having to do with roots; however, that idea is unfounded. I've done well over 5,000 full repots with bare-rootring and root pruning, and the results are many, many times more effective than potting up a pot size. One of my typical repots in 3 images: Ready to back into a pot ^^^ I'm worried it might complicate its condition even more. But if that proves to be the problem, I will probably go to the nearest plant shop and ask them to help me as they offer such services. I've also been told if I am to report it to be in the same pot, just new soil. Repotting is rejuvenating, and there is a scientific reason for that which has to do with cutting either roots or shoots back closer to the most vigorous part of the plant - the root to shoot transition area where the stem turns into roots. My bet is, the lady at the plant shop will be just as concerned about repotting as you, but that is because she's likely never been exposed. Once someone learns how to do a full repot (instead of potting up), they'll never go back to the half-measure (potting up). It's that much more effective. Just before I noticed the yellowing leaves, I took cuttings for propagation from the new growth, and I've noticed the cuttings also show similar signs and the main plant. that's to be expected because the nutrients deficient in the parent plant will also be deficient in the cutting, which typically has an impact on success rates. Al