Cyrtosperma johnstonii HOW to grow this one?
chris32599
18 years ago
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aroideana
18 years agobihai
18 years agoRelated Discussions
Colocasia Coffee cup/ Big dipper
Comments (38)The only problem is that I wouldn't have any place to put it over winter, unless it can be a dry-stored bulb? I'm ready to move my alocasias and colocasias that have been inside in pots and looking downright sulky, outside now. Put them in my warm shady corner to acclimate at first. My typhoniums are breaking ground as of 3 or 4 days ago. And, I think my A. triphyllum is making an effort to come up, after doing a bit of "dirt surfing". The ground is so warm that I don't think it's going to take very long for the in-ground aroids to pop up this year. Last year, it took a very long time. Do you have a New Guinea Gold? I'm getting that and Lime Zinger so I can do a comparison after last year's heated debate. Also possible I will get A. 'Shattered Glass'. Am on the hunt for it. Will keep you posted. Susan...See MoreGrowing an Anthurium Crystallinum from a Leaf
Comments (2)It would be interesting to try . I have been growing amorphophallus from leaf cuttings with fair success. I made a clean cut with a razor blade and dipped the cut leaf in Dip-n grow, then put it in moist perlite under a humidity dome. Most all species I've tried have formed tubers and roots so far.I am currently eperimenting with Cyrtosperma johnstonii and all cuttings seem to be doing well, but I have not disturbed any so far to see what if anything is developing. At least they have not wilted after three weeks. Give it a try and let us know what happens. Garbird...See Morecyrtospeerma johnstonii, how to keep the red lines sill brights
Comments (2)I found this useful advice on growing aquatic aroids from Dan Levin who is a former International Aroid Society president. I copied this from the IAS forum Aroid l which can easily be found on the internet: "I've been growing aquatic aroids in plastic mesh pots set into a pond for many years now. The pond is inside my heated greenhouse (in the SF Bay Area) and the water is further heated by a immersion/ aquarium heater and constantly circulated with a submersible pump with the return to the pond flowing over a small waterfall. As you posited: water/ O2 circulation inside mesh pots does appear better compared with using conventional nursery pots for this application. I offer this assessment based upon faster growth rates and reduced die-back of new growth (i.e. sometimes a new shoot will rot out) in my given conditions. The media mix I use in my mesh pots: 4 - washed Monterey sand (#2/12 screen) 2- pumice 1- red lava (5/16" clean) 1- coarse/ chunk peat moss (Sunshine, blue grade) Good light, good air circulation and regular fertilization with majors AND minors are also key to good culture. The one major downside to using mesh pots: Aquatic plant roots are quite brittle- so repotting is not all that practical, since much of the root system will naturally be growing out through the holes at the sides/ bottom and easily snapped off if you monkey with things much. I suppose one could always cut a mesh pot away from it's denizen and attempt a new/ larger pot but it wouldn't be pretty. Especially if prickles are involved (e.g. Lasia, some Cyrtosperma, etc). I've personally opted to not repot my aquatics at all. I simply let them be. My media is 90% inert anyway and functionally serves only to anchor the plants and act as an Osmocote receptacle once the plants reach adult-like sizes. FYI: in my pond I'm using 10" or 12" square pots to hold plants a meter and more tall. Finally- in my experience using mesh pots one must still heed The Penultimate Boosian Precept of aquatic aroid culture: >> I never submerge my pots more than halfway and start them out even higher... eventually lowering the pots to their final, maximum 50% depth only after a lot of roots have grown out of them down into the water. Vertical positioning in my pond is accomplished by setting the mesh pots on top of 4" (or bigger) diameter slip ABS couplings set on end; with many large holes drilled through the coupling's sides to avoid anaerobic water conditions/ dead zones directly under the plants. For deeper and variable situations I've made pedestals by using two plastic drain grate-to-pipe fittings set in a back to back configuration with "x" length of ABS pipe (holes again, please) interconnecting them. No need to glue things, so you can use pipes of differing length to vary the pot depth as needed." Here is a link that might be useful: The International Aroid Society...See MoreCyrtosperma Pollination
Comments (2)Its fairly easy , especially if you have several flowers , just transfer pollen from one flower to another . Cyrtosperma cuspidispathum often sets seed here . But the last lot I got were all duds ....See Morechris32599
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