The azaleas are not going to spread themselves around and naturalize so don't wait for that to happen. I would make the points that they are easily re-shaped to just about anything that you wish, and they are pretty easy to move (probably during the cold season or in conjunction with serious trimming ... which you might do immediately after bloom.) They would look better together, not overhanging the end of the building and trimmed to look as if they are "aware" of the windows of which they are in front. Gardening is quite often the collecting and arranging of plants -- which can be lovely and adorable -- without the regard for their effect on the larger space, i.e., a garden might not especially "care" about the presence of a building or a street, etc. ... whereas landscaping is cognizant of the larger space and demands plantings and arranging that enhance the overall space and the elements within it. Here, I think you are gardening your home, not landscaping it. It's possible that if it were landscaped instead, it could bring the overall picture together better. For example, while the plants in the circular bed are pretty, is that bed placed and planted so as to enhance the entrance as much as possible? I don't think it is. To enhance an entrance (an opening that one must go to in order to enter a building) it's more likely that plants AROUND the opening will enhance it, rather than plants directly in front of it. If you think about how you might enhance an eye with make-up, you're not going to plaster liner and shadow directly on your cornea or the whites of your eyes. Instead you'd put it AROUND the outside of eye to make it appear larger, fuller and prettier. It's not much different than that.

That is a lovely rhody. I say if you want to move it go for it. Rhodies have shallow roots & transplant readily, though are a workout! I hope our successful transplanting encourages you to do the same. I don't regret it at all! We moved at least seven 30 year old rhodies just after Father's Day that were either planted too close together, to the front porch (soon to be replaced), to the house or to the driveway. All were over 15' tall and had been inappropriately pruned for the past 4 years with heading back cuts as well as topping. Some were growing at a 45 degree angle. Others were intertwined with each other showing lots of spaghetti branches as a result of the malpruning in recent years. I did prune in May prior to the transplanting. I first removed dead wood as well as any of the heading back cuts that left jagged edges or stabbing branches to make sure my family members would be safe when working. The intertwined branches were removed so we could transplant one shrub at a time. I cut some of the lower branches that were thin and would be in the way when working. Dug after a soaking rain, dug a trench all around then used pry bars to see if we had the rootball, tied large dimeter nylon rope around trunk & attached a chain to the rope for our Suburban to help drag it while 2 others pulled the rope Pulled them to the side yard where we had dug a large shallow pt about 12" deep or so, then spread well rotted horse manure compost, topsoil & wood chips to fill in and wood chip mulch. Of course, we watered deeply during our dry summer. Just one showed wilt now and then as it was just finishing bloom when we moved it. All have survived along with 3 Pyracantha and 2 David's Viburnum with one of those being over 5' wide. We were really pleased with the way it opened up the front of the home to let in more light & created a more welcoming entrance. Now that the front porch is replaced we've been spreading compost over cardboard in preparation for planting. I don't yet have photos, but will post on the Landscape Design below to update. Here is a link that might be useful: landscape makeover

Plants wilt and die slowly when their roots become compromised. There are several causes of this: 1) Root strangulation. This is best prevented by proper root pruning when planting. If the plant is not too far gone, it might be rescued by digging and removing the soil. Then cutting any circling roots that may be strangling other roots. The roots need to be opened up. On larger plants, some of the top must be removed to compensate for the weak state of the roots. Any time the roots are exposed, they must be kept moistened. Roots that dry out will die. 2) Phytophthora Root Rot or wilt. This root rot is the major killer of rhododendrons and azaleas. It develops when roots are growing in wet conditions. The rot is more prevalent in warm summer conditions. Plants infected with crown rot caused by the oomycete, or water mold, Phytophthora have roots which become clogged with brown oomycete, or water mold, internally. The roots get blocked and the plant wilts and dies. There is not much of any cure for crown rot. Some varieties of rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, Nova Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, PJM). Sphagnum moss and bark dust combined with good drainage seem to prevent crown rot, but do not cure it. 3) Drought. It may have simply dried out. If you plant rhododendrons or azaleas in late spring, it is very important to give them some extra water while they are growing new roots. Never let the soil completely dry out' it's best to keep the soil evenly moist. Too much water or poorly drained soil might be another explanation of sudden rhododendron or azalea death. Rhododendrons and azaleas have very fine, fibrous roots that are easily damaged by waterlogging, even for short periods of time. 4) Voles. Voles, also known as meadow mice, may have chewed on the bark and roots near the crown of the plant. Sometimes they chew all the way around the trunk and kill the inner bark, resulting in death of the whole plant. Keep mulch away from the trunk to discourage voles. 5) Bark Split. The bark may also split when there are wide fluctuations in temperature in the winter. Rhododendrons and azaleas may begin to come out of dormancy if late winter weather is warm; if a cold snap follows, bark injury is likely, especially in sunny, exposed sites. 6) Wilt and slow death can also be caused by juglone poisoning from walnuts. Plants wilt and die suddenly is usually caused by roots which are girdled by larvae of the Black Vine Weevil, Otiorhynchus sulcatus, Strawberry Root Weevil, Otiorhynchus ovatus, or Twobanded Japanese Weevil, Callirhopalus bifasciatus. Adult weevils feed on the leaves at night except the Twobanded Japanese Weevil which feed during the day. Specimens may be collected during the day or at night for identification depending upon the weevil. The major damage is caused by weevil larvae which girdle the roots and kill the plant. Larvacidal drenches may be used to kill them but are of limited effectiveness. Foliar sprays are very effective at controlling adult weevils when leaf notching starts. Foliar sprays are very effective at controlling adult weevils when leaf notching starts. Foliar sprays must be repeated until no adults emerge. Twobanded Japanese weevils are apparently resistant to carbaryl (Sevin), diazinon, and malathion. Orthene gives good control when applied as a foliar spray and drench. Since weevils can't fly and spend part of each day in the soil and part of each day feeding, you can paint the trunks with Tanglefoot to stop them, but make sure no branches are touching the ground. To answer your question, I think the plant is terminally ill, but would still hold out hope a little longer. You seem to understand the basics very well. Here is a link that might be useful: Rhododendron and Azalea Problems

You'll find that the Northern Lights series of Azaleas are not limited in your climate due to winter conditions, they are easily hardy to 4a and into zone 3. IMHO the three biggest factors affecting rhodo & azalea growth in Ontario are....summer dryness, limestone based soils (& clay), and not prepping root bound plants before planting. If you can or have recitfied these situations and have it planted in a bright spot (they like more sun than rhodos), I'd expect a NL azalea to get to 6' eventually (faster with fertilizer) but more likely in the 4-5' range. Simon