Why is my crape/crepe myrtle have pink blooms & white blooms?
redraif
13 years ago
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Comments (19)
dricha
13 years agokatrina1
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Crepe Myrtle Blooms
Comments (19)They will do fine in containers! Just need to protect from hard frost in a pot. Your house is too warm for overwintering them.--maybe a garage, chilly cellar, the attic... Fact they are so easy in containers adds to he collecting bug. Okay, no more landscaping space so they can always do well in a container and fact that they are deciduous means that don't need light in their winter retreat. Still, I managed to plant 5 more today on a new western exposure fence neighbor recently installed. They transplant well and it is supposed to pour tomorrow. If you do plant again in the ground, make sure you don't make my first mistake with the very first one I got years ago. I bought a big, very robust cultivar and planted too house to the house. They were eventually very big, constantly needed pruning and were removed....See Morewhy won't my crepe myrtles bloom profusely (pics)
Comments (12)Natches Crepe myrtles usually grow fast when they are young and are one of the potentially tallest growing cultivars of CMs. Yours likely get the right amount of water they like during their spring growth flush, and the nitrogen issue will definately compound that fast growth issue. The tree that is not blooming could be getting less direct sun rays. Is there a tall tree or some other structure that is out of the shot, but which is tall enough to cast signifcant hours of shade on that CM. If so that could be another reason you CM is not blooming yet, even though the Natches on the other end of the house has begun to bloom. Personally if I wanted a corner accent CMs I would not have chosen the Natches cultivar. Especially considering that those multi trunks have the potential to get overly thick and the canopy they each produce can end up being more massive than one would think they might want spreading so close to the corner of house. Guess to avoid such issues, either late winter or very early next spring, you could do corrective pruning that transforms your Cms to single trunk trees. but whether or not you choose to do that you will find the you also will need to yearly raise each tree's canopy, until the yearly pruning time arrives when your trees are tall enough that their canopies are higher than your roof line and are no longer close enough to hang down on and brush against your house shingles....See Morecrepe myrtle scant blooms help! not blooming well
Comments (38)What I did this year was remove the lowest limbs. I did not do this for the bloom, I just like the look of the multiple trunks. The bark of a Crape is part of the attraction (color and bark naturally exfoliates). I would give the tree some time. I don't know if it's patience, I just have so many gardening interests that any particular tree or shrub might sulk for a few years w.o. me even noticing. Trees and shrubs are not said to be fully established for up to three years after planting! So too, It might be a soil thing. I did feed mine once in the season as it was pushing new growth, otherwise I do nothing special for them. Make sure you clear the weeds over the drop line and do mulch. (Summers here are usually wet enough to eliminate the need for any watering.) Boy oh boy, do the honeybees love their blossoms!...See More2-yr-Old Acoma Crepe Myrtle won't Bloom
Comments (6)The Easter freeze plus any thin new growth from the previous growing season has spelled out a problem for lots of our local CMS. Earlier in the spring many of them that had about one inch thick trunks even had to be pruned all the way down to almost ground level. In those situations, the CMs reprouted and have regrown to a point where they are now able to be pruned back again, leaving the strongest growing main leader trunks to continue growing and hardening off. Those newly grown trunks are now only about a quarter of an inch thick, and we are very concerned for their need to at least double in thickness and hardened off again so they will have a chance for survival this coming winter. For that reason we do not plan on dead heading the spent flowers to force new growth and more freqent than normal reblooming. If your Acoma CM is not struggling as much as what I just described has happened to many of our locally Grown CMs, then it must be a very good CM Cultivar. It is good that you are going to fertilize it. While you are doing that make certain that the root flare of your Acoma is just at ground level, and that any mulch, which may be covering the rootball, is pulled back at least 4 inches away from the rootflare. If you can not find the root flare when you pull back a little bit of the soil around the trunks of you CM, that could be indicating, you CM may now be situated too deeply into the soil. If that is the case continue removing the soil until you do find the root flare (that topmost place where the roots begin to grow out of the trunk) and slightly taper the soil. Then cover the entire planting bed with mulch, but like mentioned above, Keep the mulch at least 4 inches away from the trunk. When you reported that your Acoma has grown some, did you mean that you have seen new growth this spring and early summer? Is it fully leafed out? Have you avoided doing the "crape myrtle murder" pruning on it, except where the trunks and branches may have frozen already from winter and Easter freeze kill? If your Acoma has been "CM murder" pruned it could take even longer for your CM to recover, just like it slowes the CM down from forming the bloom buds, if you have not pruned back, to the first set of three leaves, the freeze killed dead ends of the branches. At any rate do not give up on your Acoma just yet. The trunk, foliage, and root developing that it has been and is currently doing should make it a much more resiliant shrub or small tree, once it finally does begin to put forth large amounts of its energy for blooming....See Morebrandon7 TN_zone7
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