What do YOU think of Autumn Blaze maples?
amy7918
13 years ago
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Comments (19)
Embothrium
13 years agoiforgotitsonevermind
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Autumn Blaze maples - do you think they will survive?
Comments (17)Thank you very much for all of the helpful replies. I guess I will wait till fall and see how things go, and be prepared to replace them if they don't survive another summer. First of all, here are a couple of photos of the trunk of the one in the yard (the worst one). You can see where I recently dug out the excess soil piled around the tree and attempted to get it at the level it probably should have been at when they planted the trees. Dwrecktor, it sounds like your experience was very close to mine. Do the pictures above look like your trees did? How long was it between the time your trees were planted and when you removed the excess soil? Mine will have been in the ground for 3 years in September. I sure wish I had known to do that right away. Arktrees, great suggestion on the perc test - I will do that. I do know that the soil is heavy red clay and there isn't much topsoil since they took that away when they built the homes. As a rule, our soil tends to be slightly alkaline from what I've heard. It gets very hot and dry here in the summers. Any suggestions as to what might be a good replacement tree? Since my house faces south, a shade tree is a priority. Other considerations are something that will be less likely to blow over or lose big limbs in our storms, won't overwhelm my small lot, and if it produces something edible (like pecans or fruit) that would always be a plus. Drought and heat tolerance would be pretty high on the list and it would be in full sun pretty much all day on that side of the house. Of course I don't want anything that will mess with the driveway/sidewalk/foundation or plumbing, though maybe that last one isn't a big deal with new construction. I welcome any and all suggestions. My personal favorites are maples and birches and blue spruce, but that's probably the Canadian in me :) I'm guessing none of those would do well down here? I'm guessing the burr oak comment was a joke? What is a chinquapin? Are there any small pecan cultivars that would make a good yard tree, or are they all huge? Also, I was reading about Caddo maples that are native to SW Oklahoma - has anyone had any experience with them? Thanks again everyone for all the helpful replies and for not making me feel more like a total idiot than I already do lol...See MoreAutumn Blaze Maple Leaves Drying out ?????
Comments (5)Here's a hypothesis for you. I'm guessing that you get some wind from time to time. Not saying full blown Santa Ana, but perhaps you do. But it wouldn't have to be high wind. Being in California your dew points are generally no higher than 50-55 degrees, and if you get an east wind, much lower than that. Point is that very little wind, with dew points that low or lower, and temps even in the 80's will be VERY drying. So this establishes some extra water stress. Now for the tree part. When deciduous tress sense the fast shorting days, and cooling temperatures, they prepare for leaf drop and winter long before you see any signs. One of the things they do is start sealing off the vascular system in preparation of the severing of the leaf from the truck to prevent water and nutrient lose. So while the leaf is still attached, it flow of water is already greatly reduced. Now along comes a day or two 80+ degrees with 15 mph winds, and you have a formula for dry toasty leaves just like your seeing. Whats more you would not get this earlier in summer, as the vascular system is open full bore then. It's only when nearing leaf drop that the flow is impeded enough to cause scorching. FWIW, I life in NW Arkansas where we have rain throughout the year. Dewpoints can easily be 70 at any time in September with temps in mid 80's, but we are nearing leaf fall. If we get a few sunny warm days with some strong wind, exposed trees can sometimes get the same leaf burn. Especially if the tree is not at all drought resistant like Sugar Maple which are very common here. So in short, I think it's tree physiology combined with dry California air and sunny skies. If I'm right you can try stepping up the water on warmer/windier days, but even that may not help. Arktrees...See MoreAutumn blaze maple and others
Comments (13)Well in 5-10 years you'll REALLY love our place then, because I've planted nearly 300 lilacs in the past 2 years! 2/3 of them are just the less-nice villosa lilac we can get for free from the pfra, but the other 1/3 are the "old fashioned" lilac that are very, very fragrant. We do have 2 horses. They do like to flick their tails and bob their heads to keep the bugs off. ;) But you forgot a couple things: first, their is the always slightly overgrown lawn because it is all brome grass that grows approx. 1 inch/hour, secondly that we grow dandelions professionally, and third, that I'm much more talented at growing weeds than perennials and roses. But other than that, you've got a good picture of our place.:) Actually, the one thing I really don't like about our trees is that we have a row of green ash in the shelterbelt and they always seem to have some sort of leaf spot that defoliates them to some degree, they are last to leaf out in spring and first to lose their leaves in fall..I don't like green ash! Did you grow up a farm girl? Sounds like you have fond memories of the typical farm yard....See MoreAutumn Blaze Maple 2 Leaders - with Pics!... 'Use this thread'
Comments (8)From what I can see, I wouldn't, but of course you have to live with the tree. I don't see any aesthetic drawbacks to doing what I suggested because the two branches we're talking about will emerge so close to the main leader that they will 'read' as originating from the main leader. I have several maples in the landscape and a couple of dozen in containers. I prune healthy trees any time I feel like it - usually with a purpose/plan, but with no regard to 'bleeding'. I recommend late dormancy pruning for two reasons. Branches that need pruning and o/a form are much more visible - the future growth habit of the tree more readily discernible, and the chance of disease spread is reduced greatly. The healing of any pruning wounds is more rapid in spring/early summer than at any other period in the growth cycle, so for me, that clinches the case for late winter/early spring pruning. I've never seen a case documented where 'bleeding' affected the long or short term vitality of an Acer, much less a documented case of a tree 'bleeding to death'. I often suggest that if the sap flow is a concern - wait until the tree appears to be resting after the spring growth flush has matured. There should be very little bleeding then. You can also make a case for late dormant pruning from an energy management perspective. What sense does it make to prune the growth off immediately after the tree has spent nearly all its energy reserves to build it. If you prune BEFORE budswell, the tree will move energy from the roots into the remaining organs and not the parts you intend to remove. Al...See Morejm30
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