What's best way to compost meat and dairy
a1234qwer
15 years ago
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Comments (24)
gnomey
15 years ago
Lloyd
15 years agoRelated Discussions
composted dairy manure solids as base for lawn?
Comments (4)When it is finished decomposing, it is called compost and it is great for your lawn. Spread it on top of established turf or new sod at a rate of 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet. If you use more you risk smothering your grass. After you fling the stuff out onto the grass, use a leaf blower, a push broom, or the back of a rake to lift the grass blades out of the compost and allow it to sift down below the grass blades. All grasses will smother under a surprisingly small amount of compost. The best time to apply on established turf was last fall. The next best time to apply was yesterday. Third best time is today. Since you don't have established turf, wait until you have mowed the new grass for at least two times before applying. Since you have a rototiller, you are probably planning to till the soil before seeding. Please don't. The problem is that when you rototill, it is impossible to till evenly to the exact same depth for longer than 3 inches of travel. What you end up with is extremely fluffy soil that has to settle again...someday. It takes 3 years to settle and during that time it is settling down to the contour of the surface that you left underneath when you tilled. Since you have to leave an uneven surface underneath, the soil will settle unevenly. The result three years down the road is a bumpy lawn. Assuming your current soil is already settled, simply preparing the surface is the best approach. If you have water pooling up near buildings or not draining to the street, then you need more help than you can do yourself. Hire a landscaper who will evaluate the situation, decide whether you need more or less soil, and use a tractor and box blade to make all that happen. The moment he leaves is when you seed the lawn and roll that seed down with a water fillable roller. The weight of the roller will "compact" the soil. The roller is the right weight when your footprints do not show....See Moremeat grease: you can't compost it. - so make soap!
Comments (13)It smells like Lye Soap, but not meat greases. I save all of the following greases and oils: Bacon Grease Hamburger drippings from my grill pan Ground Beef grease Shortening and/or oils used for frying meats. Oils used for any kind of fast frying (donuts, french fries, etc). Meat greases rendered from roasts (beef, pork, etc) and so forth. I don't fry very often, but I still save the oils and grease. It adds up faster than you might think! NEVER dump grease and oils down drains. Not only does this stop up sewer lines and septic systems, but it is a major cost to the public in city sewage systems repairs and maintenance and sewage processing plants. It pollutes the land and water systems...kills fish and other wildlife, creates algae in water ways, and more. Awful stuff. The chemical action in the soap making process removes the smelly odors of meat greases. Make sure you strain it well to remove all the bits and pieces. I just use my kitchen sieve. The soap will not LOOK like commercial stuff. Those are mostly detergents. This soap is wonderful. Leaves your skin soft. Gentle on clothes. The two commercial soaps that I know that are REAL SOAP are Castile and Ivory (or Ivory used to be real soap anyway). For JUST hand soap, you can add a little glycerin (found at all RX drug store counters), and omit the Kerosene. OPT. - Kerosene is not necessary for the recipe to work, but it makes the laundry soap better. Boosts the cleaning power. As mentioned above, you can add coconut oil (and/or other fancy oils) to make it more sudsy and feel softer. But, the purpose of this topic is HOW TO USE old MEAT GREASE that you should not put in your compost. There are all kinds of soap recipes on the internet. I've tried a few. The thing I object to in these NEW recipes is the cost and waste. Those fancy oils are EXPENSIVE. Cheaper to buy commercial soap and be done with it. Hope this explains my purpose in posting this topic: ***Recycling old meat grease rather than throwing it into the garbage that will go into land fills*** We can greatly reduce the amount of trash and garbage that goes into land fills (millions of tons of garbage dumped on the land and in the ocean )just in America) just by practicing the three "R's" of waste management for good conservation - REDUCE -> REUSE -> RECYCLE -> Don't waste food! Use those leftovers and compost your kitchen garbage. Many household items that most Americans tend to just toss in the garbage daily can be REDUCED, REUSED, and RECYCLED, including clothing, buttons, zippers, snaps, hook and eyes, and other items just in our households alone. Good conservation practices not only saves the Earth by preventing pollution and conserves our natural resources, but it will save each of us MONEY, not only collectively as a society, but in each household! There is an old Mormon saying: "A woman can throw it out the window with a teaspoon faster than a man can pitch it in the front door with a shovel." - Brigham Young, 1860. This is so true. ~Annie...See MoreClassic Summer Tart - any way to make it dairy free
Comments (10)The problem with coconut oil is that coconut is a common allergen (I'm allergic, for one :) ). That probably doesn't matter if you're topping with coconut cream. :) There are all kinds of coconut products that are being used as vegan substitutes to great success, but for entertaining, I'm always looking for the items with the fewest known sensitivities. Which is why I'm going to definitely look for the Sectrum shortening Cloud Swift mentioned. I've never seen that. The Crisco has soybean oil, which is another problem for some people. It also has hydrogenated oils, whereas the spectrum is organic and pure palm oil. They say it makes flaky pie crusts. They also have a non-dairy butter flavored one on their site that they say is good in cookies. I wonder about that because vegetable shortening in general isn't great in cookies. I'm definitely going to try this. Like Cloud Swift, I don't like baking with parve margarine. Apparently it used to be better. When I wanted to make a parve version of my mother's challah recipe, Healthy Choice had come out with a zero trans fat shortening, which worked great and I used it for cakes, pies, etc. Then I went to find a new can and it had disappeared but Crisco had started selling the same thing. The timing led me to believe that they might have bought the product from Healthy Choice, though that's speculation. It seems identical, however. Oh, I should say, with the addition of water as described for the substitution, be aware of your recipe and how it bakes. It makes for a lovely, moist crumb, but if you want something stiffer and drier you could skimp a bit on the water. But, as I said, I'm going to try the Spectrum, too. :)...See MoreWhat input of compost would equate to best compost for potting soil?
Comments (9)I think you guys are both way off the mark, and Glib is setting himself up for a soggy soil that will collapse quickly and some intense N immobilization with the addition of materials that break down rapidly, not to mention the extra heat associated with rapid composting. When you think of container media, think STRUCTURE. Forget about the soil's ability to feed the plants (that's monkey easy) and focus on it's ability to hold the right amount of water and air. Compost can't do that. No matter what you THINK, using a large compost fraction (or any other fine material like peat, coir, sand, topsoil ----- is going to provide you with a soil that retains a soggy layer at the bottom after a thorough watering. This is what you DO NOT want, because water/nutrient uptake is an energy driven process that requires fuel (photosynthate) fuel to be burned in the presence of O2. W/o the O2, there is no way to drive the process and the plant suffers for as long as the O2 level in the soil is insufficient. Ideally, you would BASE your soil on a very larger fraction of coarse material that retains it's structure for long periods (is mineral in composition or breaks down very slowly - like pine bark). This coarse material would comprise more than 75-85% of the volume of the medium. You could then add a small fraction of compost, peat, or a mineral like Turface to adjust the water retention to a favorable level. Adding coarse material to "amend" finer material doesn't work because the fine material simply fills all the air space between the large particles, leaving you with the same drainage, aeration, and soggy soil level you would have had using only the fine material. The idea is to create a soil that holds all or most of it's water inside of soil particles - on the surface of soil particles - and at the interface where soil particles contact each other, and none or little of its water between soil particles. That's not achievable using compost, peat, coir ....... Al...See More
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