My name, Your rose has something totally different. It's called a rosy gall. Seems to be a more northern problem than southern US. a good wiki page with photos I don't agree with which roses get it (in my garden it was all over R. eglanteria), and it sapped the strength of the plant. They don't add anything good to your roses, and If it were mine, I'd at least remove the gall and kill the bugs inside.

What I was trying to say is that your cherry might be a plant which naturally grows no taller than one or two feet high. That doesn't mean it's not a cherry, but it won't have the rampant, taller-than-the-eaves-of-the-house growth you'd expect from a cherry. Most of these small plants have a clue in the name that they're dwarfs: Early Dwarf Cherry; MiniRose; Yellow Pygmy; Tiny Tim. But with some dwarfs or short plants, you might not realize from the name that it is supposed to be a small plant: Red Robin (cherry tomatoes on a plant that's only 8-12 inches tall); Chibikko (cherries on a 6 inch plant); Koralik (cherries on a 3 foot determinate plant). And as you say, there's also the possibility that your plant acquired the wrong label somehow, and it might not even be a cherry. Or seeds were mixed up at the grower. It happens.

The fruit of a fig (a synconium) is actually a receptacle for it's flowers, which grow inside the receptacle. Figs are pollinated almost always wasps, that crawl into the synconium through a hole (ostiole) in the distal end/bottom of each synconium. The female wasp(s) carry pollen into the fig, pollinate the flowers, and die inside. Male wasps emerge and mature first. When female wasps emerge they meet the males and mate. The males then dig escape tunnels for the females before dying inside the fig. The females then go in search of another synconium, which completes the circle. So, whether or not your little synconium gets pollinated depends on a highly specific wasp having access to them. Better to attempt propagation by way of cuttings. Pecking Order of Plant Parts Trees and herbaceous plants prioritize their parts, but perhaps it's better to say that the strength of energy sinks has a distinct order: Energy is first allocated to respiratory function, i.e. to maintenance of living tissues, then, to production of fine roots, followed by flower and seed/fruit production, then primary growth (extension of both roots and shoots), then secondary growth (thickening), and finally, the synthesis of defensive chemicals. From this, you can conclude that additional energy will be available for primary and secondary growth as well as the plant's defenses. As a bonsai practitioner, I always remove blooms from developing plants as soon as they appear. If I miss removing some of the blooms, I remove the developing fruit to free up extra energy in order to increase the plant's mass. On more developed plants where bloom and/or fruit appreciation is one of the plants most desirable properties, I generally limit blooming/fruiting to every other or every third year in order to keep the vitality level of the plants as high as possible. While I realize you are not tending a bonsai, this is a useful bit of information applies to any potted tree you would grow indoors or outdoors. Al

I was thinking about my post as i was feed-watering my trees a bit ago. yes, I think so. My caution - or suggestion - is to have a feeding plan/program in place so that you can get enough food to the tree. Meyers are especially hungry. For the few potted trees i have, i have been successful with a weekly water-in of Foliage Pro alternating with Liquid Gold - a tablespoon of food with a tablespoon of vinegar (because my water is 9.4 pH) per 1 to 1.5 gallons (loosely measured). The weekly feed is in addition to Osmocote Plus in the top layer of the pot's soil. In my case for the 40 in the ground i just fed, i need to overfeed and spot-water/over-water to compensate for other established trees' roots; and in general water restrictions (we are still officially in a drought). The trees that produced lots of fruit this past season are underfed, pale green with yellowing tips here and there. The trees that i successfully limited to 3-5 fruit are just fine; deep green. And the trees under the neighbors' against the fence tall trees are struggling for food and water and sun. So they all got a dose of hose-end sprayer loaded with vinegar and liquid food. As someone posted a while back here on this forum... feed weakly weekly.