Ken, Here's a pic before I staked it: This is it almost exactly a year ago from pretty close to the same camera angle but much closer up (you can tell how much the foliage has increased by the sheer # of leaves): There are two main leaders at this point, both suffering from the same top-heavy problem and leaning in the same direction. So I used two 6' plastic stakes about 2 feet away and twine+velcro straps to pull them upright and slightly separate them. How long do you think I should expect to leave it staked? I'd rather not do it for long if I can help it . . . just long enough for the branches to strengthen. It didn't have this problem last year but I'd say it has >3 times the foliage now. It's definitely a JM but I can't guarantee how true to bloodgood it will be. It grew up under a mature bloodgood at my dad's house, presumably from seed? Either way I'm expecting it to be large for a JM . . . its parent tree is probably 15' high with an 8-10" trunk, and is at least 15-20 years old. This one is in a spot where that size would be fine, so I'm not worried about its growth potential . . . I just don't want abnormally fast growth to keep it from being the beautiful tree it has the potential to be. Thanks again.

Thanks for all responses. I'm beginning to think that maybe some of the damage is due to a day or two of heavy rains and winds. Even though the tree is under an overhang so did not get direct rain, there was definitely major winds. I should have moved it out of that area. The tree is planted just as it was in it's previous pot from the nursery except for in a larger pot. In terms of leaves slightly curling downwards instead of being flatter, does this usually mean too little water or too much? Or could this all be a reaction to too much daily wind? There is a slight breeze throughout the day, but nothing crazy. there is a lot of pollen from a nearby avocado tree that has collected all over the leaves. If, and this is what I am hoping it is, the damage is from the storm in tandem with the shock of being newly potted, would it be a good idea to prune off the dead leaves and dry twigs that have appeared? a lot of the dead/dying leaves are in clusters underneath other branches of leaves (sort of internal to the structure of the tree's foliage). I checked all the way down into the container to make sure of drainage again, and the soil is barely moist, so I really don't think it's too much water. We do have very alkaline water here in southern California. I was told to use rose or azalea food to help replenish the acidity in the soil, but didn't plan on using that for several months since the tree was just repotted. I'd like to post images of the tree, just need to figure out how!

You've got to kind of wonder about the training of a 'master gardener' who believes fungal problems are only directly related to rain and lack of summer heat.......There are many causes to fungal issues and heat and dryness can certainly be contributing factors, just as much as damp, rainy weather. Heat and dry conditions are primary contributors to the development of powdery mildew, for example. It is impossible to be certain without an accurate diagnosis, but the symptoms resemble those of verticillium wilt, which is a soil borne fungal pathogen (no water or mild temperatures required - it just exists). It typically will affect only selected portions of the tree, leaving the rest looking fine. Until it fails completely :-(( Take a sample of the affected branches in to your local Cooperative extension office for diagnosis and ID. If it is VW, there's not much you can do other than remove the tree.

That's pretty severe damage.....not sure you'll be able to save this tree. It looks like the chewing has occurred pretty much fully around the trunk, in which case the results will typically be fatal for any growth located above that point. The tree is unable to transport moisture and nutrients above this area and wilting and dieback is pretty much SOP. Will the lower undamaged portions survive? Probably but then you have to weigh the effect of what that appearance is going to look like going forward......do you want a short, shrubby looking specimen or a real 'tree'? FWIW, you will probably want to consider protecting any other new maples - or any other vulnerable plants for that matter - from the ability of your pets or any other predators (rabbits, deer, voles, etc.) to chew on them.