I have similar spots and was considering camellias, too, but any camellia around this town (Livermore) that gets any sun to speak of also gets ugly burned leaves -- very unattractive. My solution was Carpenteria californica, or bush anemone. It's a native, broadleaf evergreeen, is a medium-sized shrub "in captivity", and looks something like a camellia but without "attitude" about the sun. I've been happy with mine. The bloom period is relatively long and the plant looks decent year-round. Ceanothus are great too, but the only ones that do well in Livermore (Ray Hartman, Blue Jeans, Concha) are too expansive for the spot you describe. I have those planted out on my "chaparral" hillside. Here's a link for the Carpenteria (same nursery as harborrose gave for the Ceanothus -- this is a great nursery whose website is a true resource): Here is a link that might be useful: Carpenteria californica

I'll second hoovb's suggestion of trying different methods until you develop a system that works for you. Albas generally root pretty well for me, 'Queen of Denmark' being the exception (I'm currently trying hoovb's layering technique on it), while I struggle with Noisettes that many people find easy. I agree that time of year for rooting may be an issue. I've always started cuttings in fall, in the ground in a cold greenhouse, which in my mild climate works fine for most roses. Now I finally have a north facing wall with some clear space at the base of it, and next summer I want to try to root roses that I've failed at before like the Noisettes. My problem with summer rooting has been what you say: too much heat, sun, and dryness. People who root roses in cold climates have a different set of conditions to deal with than I have: I remember a forumist from New York state talking about her difficulties. Like you, she had trouble rooting Albas. I don't use rooting hormone, and don't know how much of a difference it would make. Lots and lots of roses root just fine without hormone. If it did make a 10% difference, just to throw a number out at random, that would count for something. You're talking mostly about once-blooming roses. I have a question myself about the maturity of the growth to take in fall: use the new shoots that have grown over the summer, or the older shoots that flowered in late spring? I've been hedging my bets and taking some of both, but I imagine it makes a difference. Custom rooting could also be because these roses unfortunately aren't that popular. I've had very mixed results attempting to root the once-blooming roses of European origin, but quite a few are not that hard to propagate from cuttings. Melissa

I'd plant both. It's a long strip, so you could stagger some tall nandinas with a few Gulf Streams in groups, and have some jasmine on a trellis or tuteur somewhere in the mix. There's someone on the rose forum who uses huge tripods leaning up against her fence for climbing roses- very pretty. I'd also use foxtail asparagus ferns (gasp). The impossible to remove Fortnight lily (dietes, morea, whatever it is now)takes those conditions, but it's as bad as asparagus ferns. There are probably more and better options in your zone, though. You could also put some plants on sticks. That mixes it up a bit. I use Sprenger asparagus for that. Ivy might work too, and wire plant is an option. If they touch the ground, though, you will have issues. Renee

above i wrote this: conifers are trees.. and frankly they NEVER stop growing.. presuming they dont die ... the important thing to learn is the sub-heading Conifer Sizes .. and learn all about annual growth rates .... it should have read this way: conifers are trees.. and frankly they NEVER stop growing.. presuming they dont die ... CHECK OUT THE LINK BELOW ... the important thing to learn is the sub-heading Conifer Sizes .. and learn all about annual growth rates .... [and the link is in the prior reply] you said in reply: As you can see, my lot is pretty small, and I wanted to frame my house a bit with the trees. How tall and wide does the Bakeri usually get? check out the new link below .... especially the pic there.... bakeri can grow up to one foot per year ... and unless you want to be cutting it down in 10 years.. it better be planted.. 8 to 10 feet from the house.. MINIMUM ... which again.. is why you need to define the garden bed.. before you start choosing plants ... while at the first link.. look into the definition of a DWARF plant.. and should you want a plant that lasts in situ for more than 10 years.. you will HAVE TO get.. mail order... a conifer that grow less than 6 inches per year ... ken ps: if you insist on a large picea pungens.. look into Hoopsi ... and forget about the real old cultivar bakeri ... mine below with yearly growth notated ... Here is a link that might be useful: link