with 50% of the canopy dead.. its dying ... how long it takes.. in tree years.. is unknown ... all dead stuff has to be removed.. and by that time... and cost.. you may as well remove it all .. yes.. its shocking ... welcome to home ownership ... it really doesnt matter why ... but if you want to find out.. you can hire a certified arborist to come and tell you why ... but you will still have to remove all hanging dead stuff... especially if it is overhanging your house .. or your neighbor.. whether you like them or not ... though we had a horrible MI winter.. none of my 20 oaks of various ages were affected ... you might want to ID and save some of the other trees as replacements for this one... dont make the mistake in getting rid of what might be quality trees.. already on the property ... but do get rid of weed trees .... and if your words failed.. as to what you mean by 50% not sprouting.. get us some pix ... ken

How awful! I remember when I lived in Massachusetts in the 1960's and we had a blight called Dutch Elm Disease that destroyed all the Elm trees. It was so sad to see a whole species of trees completely wiped out. About 15 years ago we were having a problem with oaks in Central Florida. I had a nice shade tree in the back yard that just suddenly lost all of it's leaves and died within a week. When it was cut down it appeared that nothing was wrong with it. My neighbor also lost his huge oak that was 5 feet in diameter and over 60 feet high, at the same time I lost mine. The rest of the oaks in our area were okay. His tree was about 150 feet away from mine. A tree that was the same age and size as my neighbors and about 20 feet from his was okay. Very strange. Hopefully this current blight will not affect all the oaks. Rose

Here is the USU publication on selecting trees. If you're using EDDHA chelated iron and a foliar spray, your trees should be greening up. I usually add the chelated iron at the same time as I do the deep watering. I pick 4 spots around the drip line. I often put some compost in a 5 gallon bucket, let it sit for a little while (really just a few minutes) put 1/4 of the recommended amount of chelated iron down, pour the compost "tea" slowly on that spot, so it soaks in and carries the iron with it. Then I set the hose there and let it run on a trickle for an hour (or, if the soil is soaking up the water well enough, I'll let it run a bit faster and for only about 15 minutes). I repeat the process at the other 3 spots I picked out. A month or so later, I pick out 4 new spots to water. I usually try to hit the midpoints of the last watering. So, for example, if I first watered N-S-E-W, the next time, I'll do NE-SW-NW-SE. I probably do three deep waterings each year, maybe 4. When you spray the water soluble iron, do you use shampoo or dishsoap to the water? The soap acts as a surfactant/wetting agent, so it helps it spread more evenly and stick a little better. Have you tried adding soil sulfur? I added it a few times, but didn't realize that I wasn't doing much good by spreading it on the top of the soil. Getting the bulb auger seems to have made a big difference. Of course, it was also the time I bought a big bag (I don't remember for sure, but I think it was a 50 lb bag, for one large tree). Another thing that might help (although I think it would be short term and have limited effect) would be to add some vinegar to the water. I wouldn't add much--maybe a quart diluted in 5 gallons. I think that would have a fast, limited and short term effect. If you're really desperate, there are "iron pills" for trees. Basically, they're iron in a gel cap. You drill a small hole (or several holes, depending on the size of the tree) in the trunk of the tree, insert the gel cap and seal with grafting wax. Drilling a hole in the trunk isn't good for a tree, but if the alternative is losing the tree, the hole is less damaging than having a tree that can't produce chlorophyll. If you're going to try these things, you need to do it really soon. If you wait until the leaves are out and turning yellow, it's already too late. As for amending the soil when planting, I've read conflicting advice on that. It used to be commonly advised, but most of what I've read in the last few years recommends against it. Especially in conditions like ours with the heavy clay. The problem with amending the planting hole is that it then becomes much more porous than the rest of the lawn, creating what is often referred to as a "bathtub effect" where the water from the nearby denser soil drains into the bathtub created by the soft amended soil. Most of what I've read recently recommends planting in the native soil, then adding mulch, compost, etc on top of the soil. Another problem with amending the soil in the tree hole is that then the tree roots have a difficult time expanding beyond the amended soil. There's some sort of soil barrier effect. I used to be a big believer in digging a big hole, amending the heck out of it and planting the tree in it, but I think that approach may be largely responsible for the demise of the magnolia I planted a few years ago (lost it to chlorosis and I think killed with kindness because it was overwatered).

I can imaginge how you feel about losing these beautiful old trees.. very sad. The bark falling off is not a good sign as you know....but why it's falling off is the question.. Hope an arborist can help you try to save the trees... keep us posted. Start planting those acorns ,my son d id last year and has some new seedling growing in his yard...