What's wrong with my Boxelder (Acer Negundo)?
wahoo67
15 years ago
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lkz5ia
15 years agowahoo67
15 years agoRelated Discussions
was poetic about boxelder????
Comments (30)The tree is healthy. It is certainly protected because it is over 3 inches in diameter at 5 feet. Anybody trying to fell it would have a fight on their hands. It's not mine to remove the paving from. When it raises the stones I dare say they will be altered by someone. Heaven knows where the roots go because, as you can see, it is bounded by a light well to a basement on one side and behind the mossy wall the ground falls away and there is a downward sloping path. So it can only really root in two directions. These are the rules: Trees with a diameter in excess of 7.5cm (3 inches) measured 1.5 metres (5 feet) above ground level are protected by law, and 6 weeksâ written notice must be given before any tree work, not just felling, is undertaken. For trees being felled to aid the growth of others (i.e. thinning operations), the threshold diameter is10cm (4 inches). Anybody hazard a guess at its age? I have no idea....See MoreAcer experiment
Comments (4)Hi apophis When you see the beautiful leaf colour on trees in the autumn or Fall as our american friends call it, most of the trees are Acers or as Glen says Maples. My one regret is that I have not visited New England USA in the fall to see the maples change leaf colour But you can find photos on the net, well worth your time to look Regards Len...See MoreInteresting (to me) maple graft and Acer compatibilities
Comments (12)pteroceltis, It looks like you have a bit more experience with this tree than I do. As you can see by my User Name, I'm a big fan of Acer griseum. Here's what I do know that may help you: Seeds: Most seeds contain an embryo and hardly any endosperm to speak of. Another plant that shares this characteristic is the orchid. Understanding how the orchid propagates naturally by seed, I think, can help us understand how griseum does as well. The orchid bursts out millions of dust-like seeds on the forest floor. Those that land on a specific fungi will find the nutrients necessary for the seed to germinate. On their own, they do not have the CHO or the proteins to create roots or shoots. Likewise, griseum needs a food-source for germination. Also, the casing is extremely hard and thick. Scarification really isn't enough. It's a wonder that the tree has made it this far in evolution. Forgive me if you don't believe in evolution. Whether we came from a similar ancestor as the monkey or not, plants do adapt over time, and natural selection does occur. Anyway, some propagators have had success using this understanding and have almost surgically removed the embryos and placed them in a nutrient-rich petri-dish. The embryo germinates and we have a new plant. Vegetative propagation: The general rule is, the younger the stem tissue, the more likely it will root. Seedling cuttings root pretty easily. But, seedlings are small and have very little stem to use. It's like a cycle: Take a seedling, cut it, root it, you now have another seedling. And, to get the original seedling, you have to get the seed to germinate. The trick we use is to almost force the well-established stock plant to succor: Hack it down low to the ground. Then, several immature stems come up. Then, use those to root. But, you have to let it grow green a little to continue to feed the roots. So, let one stem grow as a leader for the season. Ok, that's griseum. But, the other plant you mentioned was cappadocicum. I will not pretend to be an expert on this plant. I know that it is related to truncatum; which easily hybridizes with platanoides (Norway). Is Norway not an aggressive weed up in your part of the country? So, my assumption - and sorry this was so long - my assumption is that Forestfarm used cappadocicum as a rootstock because of it's aggressive tendencies to your area. But, it is not as aggressive as platanoides. So, you have a rootstock that will be extremely successful in your area with an ornamental top. Here's the concern: Maples are broken down into several groups. There really should be several genus' to break them down. Perhaps there will some day. For example, the Sugar Maple Group contains: Sugar, Silver, Red, Bigtooth Boxelder, Black, and some others. Japanese, for example, is not one of them. Nor is griseum. However, Boxelder is. Follow me here. The more related they are, the more compatible they are and the more likely the graft will take and last. I talked with a professor by e-mail at Penn State a few years ago. He was doing a test on graft compatibility of a Red scion and a Sugar stock. It looked successful for six years. During the seventh year, the graft split and the trees fell at the graft. I don't know if griseum and cappadocicum are in the same group or not. I don't believe they are. However, Boxelder is trifolate and is in the Sugar group. cappadocicum is almost a webbed palm. As far as maples go, there isn't a more entire leaf that I've seen. It's the flower, fruit and seed that determines the relatedness, not the leaf. So, I'd ask Forestfarm just how long this union has lasted in their experience. Just because it took in the greenhouse and lasted a few years at the farm, does not mean it will last for a lifetime in someone's landscape. I'm sorry if I confused or frustrated you. I just want you to understand why I would check with the grower their success on it. I'd hate your favorite tree to fall over one of the years during a wind storm. ericpaul...See Moresomething wrong with my Beni maiko
Comments (7)Hi Clancy,wind can certainly severly damage foliage on young maples when leafing out.I grow many from start and every year the spring winds come and ruin a lot of them.Often they are weakened from the stresses of winter(temperature,wetness etc.)and many don't have the stamina to withstand this defoliation.As they get older it become less of a problem and dissappears.This year for the first time in 3years,the winds didn't come,but we had lovely warm sunshine instead.However the little maples were not bothered by this,they can withstand our sun in UK as long as it's not too windy.Rebounding wind off the house seems to cause even more harm,and obviously sun will add to the problem. Firstly I'd say don't panic and start throwing water at them,this will only make things worse.It's a common mistake to do this when seeing shrivelled dried up leaves.The damage is done now and nothing will mend the leaves.Check to see that the soil is damp and only water if really necessary and don't fertilise.Looking at your set up it wouldn't be too much a job to stick a few canes in each corner and peg some plastic bin liners or something to provide wind shielding.With a bit of luck with shelter this plant will leaf out again eventually,but sometimes it can take a long time....See Morelucky_p
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