Nope. just getting my info from an ONAN manual. This is a bit garbled since I'm copying it from a 2 column pdf file- 3. Pull spark plug wires off spark plugs and remove spark plugs. Connect an approved spark tester to each of the spark plug wiresand ground them away from spark plug hole. Turn key on and crank engine over for 5 seconds while watching for spark. If a spark occurs regularly, the problem is not in the ignition system. If no spark occurs, go to step 4. Incorrect wiring can cause elec- tronic ignition damage. Do not attach any lead or jumper with power (such as B+) to coil negative terminal. 4. Connect a jumper lead directly from the positive battery terminal to the positive (+) coil terminal (smaller diameter of the two threaded posts). Crank engine over while watching for spark. If spark occurs, the problem is in the low oil pressure cut out switch (if equipped) or related wiring, the lubricating system (low oil pressure), or in the other circuitry bringing voltage to the coil. If no spark occurs, go to step 5. 5. Connect positive side of voltmeter to negative (-) coil terminal (larger diameter of the two threaded posts) and negative side of voltmeter to engine ground. Turn key on and rotate flywheel slowly by hand while observing voltmeter. Voltage should switch between battery voltage and 1-1.5 for each revolution. If voltage does not switch properly, replace ignition module. 6. Install spark plugs and wires. If ignition module is being replaced, be sure to connect red lead from new ignition module to positive (+)terminal of coil, black lead from module to negative (-) terminal of coil. Continuity Test 1. Pull spark plug wires off spark plugs and remove spark plugs. 1-1 Accidentalstarting of the engine AWARNING can result in severe personal injury or death. Remove spark plugs before proceeding. 2. Turn ignition on. 3. Connect a voltmeter between the negative (-) coil terminal (larger diameter of the two threaded posts) and a good engine ground. 4. Rotate the flywheel slowly by hand in the clockwise direction until the voltmeter reading switches from approximately 1 volt to battery voltage. Atthis point, one of the chaff screen screws should lie between the two timing marks on the blower housing. To recheck timing, the flywheel must be rotated another complete revolution in the clockwise direction. Moving the flywheel back and forth across the reference timing mark will not activate the electronic ignition control. This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Mon, Feb 17, 14 at 20:17

My $161.95 early bird service for my JD GT275 turned into $375.81 service. see under posting "John Deere Lawn Tractor Buying Advice Needed: X300 or LA series" Thing of it is I've gotten just as good as life out of my Sears, oh well, The same thing happened when I bought a Lincoln Continental, T-birds were just as good but cost a good deal less. Now retired, I sold the Lincoln 2 weeks before I retired, because of the cost factor. Now, I use my wifes Avalon when I need a car, or just climb up into the Dodge Ram - yeh, it's a hemi. Like I've said I like HP. Enjoy, the cub, dragging that deck alittle at the shed door will do alot less damage than leaving it set out in the weather.

Are you certain that you have a really good battery in this tractor? Do yourself a favour. Bring your car close enough so that you can connect a pair of booster cables to the car battery. Put the cable that is hooked to the positive terminal on the car's battery onto the lug coming out of the starter motor. Then take the cable that is clamped to the car battery's negative terminal and push it hard against the starter motor's housing. If the starter motor doesn't spin over rapidly, then you're in for the fun job of changing out the starter motor. Where are you getting this number from? It is definitely NOT a Case serial number. Find the ID plate that is riveted to the tower that supports the dash. The plate is aluminum and is at knee level. The upper line should say that the model number is 446 and the line below that has the serial number. It should begin with either a 9 or a 1 with no letter prefix. So tell me about the solenoid. Did you have to use TWO jumper wires to make it click or just ONE?????

Voltage to the coil has to go on and off or no spark, think in terms of the old 'points' when the points opened and removed the ground from the coil, the back EMF in the coil (actually a transformer) makes a spark, You can test if you have a grounded automotive type coil by tapping one of the two small leads to the terminal, if you have ground to one and +12 to the other it should spark by disconecting one lead. A worn out set of points or bad soild state ignition unit will show power or ground at all times. You can also check with a test lamp either from ground or + to the coil leads, when cranking the motor the lamp should blink a bit.