Does the tractor have enough electrical output to handle extra lighting for any lenth of time.Some only put out a few amps,just enough( DC) to keep the battery charged at WOT,and a few (AC)for the headlights

If I were to put tail lamps on my LT, I would probably get a pair of red surface-mount running likes like the truckers use, and attach them to the rear of the body, and wire them to the headlamps.

This is the style light I'm thinking:

I'm sure you could find something that works similarly at your local auto parts store.

Hey, I like that, they'd look good on my LT160.

If you're concerned about power consumption, LED lights are bright and draw very little power.

I've already thought of doing this myself, hence the quick answers... :)

I've been thinking about adding tail lights to my Wheel Horse 312-8. Based on the drawings, it appears that I can remove the reflectors and directly replace them with the lights below. The drawings also show sockets in the wiring harness for the tail lights.

Tail Lights

Since they are intended for GTs, they shouldn't draw too much current. I've seen similar lights in box stores. I think it is a standard trailer side light with a red lense.

-Deerslayer

deerslayer- that looks like it takes a standard 194 automotive lamp, which draws about .27 A. If you want to make them brighter, you can use a ECE W5W (aka part number 2825) which draws .4 A and is about twice as bright.

Compare this to the 1156 lamp my LX176 uses for headlamps- each draws 2 A. 2 extra tail lamps of the ones you illustrate will barely even draw 1/4 the amps of one headlamp bulbs on my lawn tractor.

i am thinking about doing the same on my jd 100... as i do alot of plowing in the winter and work late around the yard during the summertime. i was also thinking about looking into some type of brighter lighting for the headlights... weather it be brighter bulbs or some type of externally mounted light. the external sounds better right now because in the winter with the plow in the raised position it blocks about half the light from the headlights. is there a way to up the output to run lights that draw more amps?

It's unlikely that you can up the amperage of the alternator on your lawn tractor.

A rough test of your charging system's capabilities would be to hook up all the accessories you plan on connecting right after starting, and seeing what the voltage drop is with versus without them. I'd be concerned at greater than 1V, and you shouldn't drop below 13V under any circumstances.

As for upgrading your headlights, the existing housings are probably plastic. Anything in the halogen department would likely overheat the housing and melt it (and draw too much amperage). There's some promise in LED bulbs, however.

You could save a bunch of time and money and get one of these instead!!! I even think it makes a siren sound!

{{gwi:356447}}

"that looks like it takes a standard 194 automotive lamp, which draws about .27 A. If you want to make them brighter, you can use a ECE W5W (aka part number 2825) which draws .4 A and is about twice as bright."

constantinotobio, thanks for the tip. I don't think that my electrical system will have a problem providing enough amperage. The alternator is 15 amp regulated. My WH 312-8 came standard with sealed beam headlights. Earlier model years came standard with tail lights like the one in the link above.

-Deerslayer

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

I'm starting to wish we got snow so I could have more "toys" for the tractors.

Hi guys. Just my 2 cents. I wanted to do the same application on my jd lx277 and settled for the red flashing strobe that cyclists use on their bikes. I just mount it on my suitcase weights and pick a flash setting. These lights are highly visible even in bad weather and require no wiring. I've used the same battery for 3 years now and ready for a fourth season. I also installed yellow reflective tape on my thrower and my neighbors tell me that I am quite visible at night. Dockside.

Hi, I am new here! A friend gave me an old (1975-1988) MTD-Montgomery Ward Lawn tractor, which looks a little like the old world war II tow motors used by the airports from the rear. Kinda Cute! I am restoring it and improving it. One of the mods made include old/new Bolens headlights and Peterson clearence/tail/turn/marker signals. The Briggs and Stratton 195707(8 hp) engine I am building up from a new short block. I have used a 10 to 16 amp stator and matching regulator. I understand that I may get only 10 amps out of the system because of flywheel magnets. I made sheelt metal brackets to hold the tail lights painted to tractor color. I used four Peterson clearence lamps that are sold as lawn and garden tail lights, they have 193 bulbs, 2 each lite. Each lamp uses .33 amps. I have mounted an amber unit, back to back, with a red unit on sheet metal and wired each side, one to the other. This will give me amber facing front and red to rear. This makes a total of eight lamps, a total of 2.64 amps. The Bolens headlights each use 2.1 amps, for a total of 6.84 amps. This should give me enough charging power for the battery. This tractor did not have lights when I got it. I had to make sheet metal brackets for the all the lights. I cut holes in the grile and in the bracket I made for the headlights. I had neatly cut the welds that held the hood and grile togather and purchased some hood supports on Ebay to hold the grile to the frame. Ebay has realy helped. The hood now rotates up from the grile. This little tractor is very small, less than 28 inches wide, with larger rear wheels(8 inch rims, 16-6.50x 8). With re-enforced frame, with small 3 point hitch, this tractor will be able to get through small gates, and can be carried in my small pickup. I intend to make or adapt small implements for the tractor. This is a fun project, I intend to use. Thanks for your time, Walt_2007.