when should i call quits on my shumard oak sapling
bridget helm
13 years ago
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musicalperson
13 years agobridget helm
13 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (24)iforgotitsonevermind, I for one rarely give out personal information, and so I agree with not giving out specific information, however general information (zone/region)gives some indication of length of growing season, rainfall, rainfall pattern etc which can all be helpful. With that said people are only trying to help you, but I'm not going to argue with you as you have obviously gotten upset. Just something for you to think about, Arktrees I do have the following to add that could be of some benefit to you. Allot of trees in containers (I don't know the percentage), are in fact "containerized". These trees are actually field grown, dug bare root, roots pruned, and then planted in a container and given some time to recover before being sold as container stock. I don't know it this is what happen here, but it would seem likely to significantly slow recovery. This is due to the fact that as many or more root are lost, than if the tree was balled and burlaped, so that there is a great deal of regeneration must occur, which is likely to be slowed due to limited sun exposure. It may be beneficial to dug a small test hole with a trowel a short distance from the tree to determine if roots are spreading properly. Obviously if you are only making a small hole, and the roots are spreading well, then this is a minor lose of roots compared to what may have happened previously, and will give you a good ideal as to what is happening below ground. But of course you don't want to repeat this very much. I intend to do just this with our kousa dogwood, did just this for a tulip tree last fall that did not exactly thrive last year. Containerized trees are very common. Our first Fall Fiesta Sugar Maple I planted improperly for our soil. By the time I realized that I had screwed up, I dug the tree up, and placed it back in a container but the tree eventually died. Many months later, I removed the dead tree from the container, removed the soil, and discovered it was a containerized tree. In the intervening time I planted another Fall Fiesta Sugar Maple elsewhere that is doing very well so far, and my discovery of the containerizing of the original explained the growth rings I had seen on the new tree that didn't seem to make sense. The current years growth (at the time of planting in the fall) had been much less than previously years growth. It had shoots of approximately 6-8 inches, while growth rings (can bee sine in the bark on shoots when bark color and texture changes from one year to the next) on other trees indicated that they often grew a great deal more than that. So apparently the tree had been dug from the field the fall before i bought it, planted into a container, and allowed to recover for the summer, and fill the pot with roots. The tree was then shipped late summer to my destination, at which time I bought it in the fall, and planted it. Then last spring it grew about double what it had the previously year (the recovery summer), but still not as much as it as has been visible in other larger trees. I bring this up, as it may give you some clue as to whether the tree has in back been field grown, then containerized. At the least it may give somebody else some ideals for this problem....See MorePlease Help - Newly Planted Oak Sapling
Comments (8)red oaks do not tolerate being transplanted in the hottest part of summer. But if the tree's root ball had been dug in a manner that did not distrub the tree's root system, and then was put in a bucket or pot, the best thing for you have done would be for you to create good drainage holes in the pot or bucket, and then for you to have dug a hole large enough for the tree; pot and all. You could have planted the tree pail or pot and all keeping it watered properly, and then the tree pots and all could have easily enough been dug out in the late fall for a safer planting into it's permanant location. This would have avoided the shock that your tree is now suffering from. At the very least your could have simply moved the potted tree very close the east side of a bulding where it would get enough morning light, and even better, early enough afternoon shade for the sapling to maintain and establish a stronger root system, during the milder upcoming fall that is if you had kept it watered properly all summer long and up to the point in late fall when the tree would have been strong enough and near enoough to going dormant that you could then easily remove the tree from it's pot or pail. That best time would probably have been mid or late November of this year. Now though since you failed to consider the tree's tendancy to shock and fail if transplanted in the hottest part of summer, and since before the tree ever showed signs of shock, you did not then, when first transplanting the sapling, provide tree protection from drying winds or excessive mid-day to early evening heat stress your tree is more like to die. Even better for that Oak saplings which had grown from acorns you could sunk it pot and all just a few inches into the ground under a tree that would give it a full day of dappled shade. Even then you would still need to keep it well watered, especially during this time of summer. If those needs of your sapling or whip have not been respected, then there is very little chance for your young oak tree to survive now....See MoreShould I Paint My Oak Trim?
Comments (49)Should I paint my oak trim? The ~100 year old house I am renovating is full of natural woodwork. The living room & fireplace room have a nice closed-grain wood (cherry, maple or birch, not sure) and the rest of the house has oak trim. The dining room is oak, but in a darker tone. Photo link is below. The lower & upstairs hallways are oak, but have a real super orange shellac look to them. Here's the worst part though - a misinformed contractor took a sander to some of the trim in the 2nd floor hallway!! So now some of the trim is now both orange and damaged. What a dare ask is: what if we painted the lower & upper hallway trim, doors, stair risers and banisters white, and refinished the natural wood railings and newels (leave them natural). I would never touch the living room, fireplace room, or dining room woodwork - but the hallway just seems ready for a possible makeover, and stripping/refinishing the woodwork would take forever or thousands $$...and, in the end it's still oak. I look at the big arched window, and imagine it in a nice glossy white, and imagine something really classy looking. Any votes? Of course there's two issues here: 1) painting ~100 year old natural woodwork, and 2) having different kinds of trim in different parts of the house. Here is a link that might be useful: Woodwork Photos...See MoreShumard red oaks -- diseased?
Comments (15)Checking back in! Over the course of the months, the condition of both trees continued to decline: every time new leaves were put out, they all started to brown at the edges. (We planted another oak at the same time in the front yard, and that tree is 100% fine.) We made the decision to take them down, sadly. DH took the left one down to almost soil level about a month ago. I immediately 'treated' the bark/outer ring portion with Roundup. On a different day, he took the right tree down to about 3'. No Roundup applied to that one yet. How best to remove as much of the left stump as possible, so the grass can grow in? And if it wasn't a good idea to take the stump that low, we still have the opportunity to take a different approach with tree #2 (right). Thanks for any advice....See Morebridget helm
13 years agomusicalperson
13 years agobridget helm
13 years agobrandon7 TN_zone7
13 years agokatrina1
13 years agomusicalperson
13 years ago
Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years agoscotjute Z8
13 years agobridget helm
13 years agomusicalperson
13 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years ago
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brandon7 TN_zone7