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Help w/ Push Button Start/Switch on Riding Mower

9 years ago

I picked up an old 1991 Snapper LT14H41 with a 14HP Kohler engine for free a couple weeks ago.

I'm gonna turn it into a utility/off road tractor. I don't have a yard big enough worth a riding mower, and have too many obstacles for one anyways.

Im painting it, taking anything associated with the cutting deck off to drop some weight, and gonna put some actual lights on it rather than the stock low-output "headlights." Also might do a little stereo system in the future, but for now I have a big question.

I would like to do-away with all of the safety switches and ignition. The ignition is rusty and old (It sat outside un-used for 3 years). I want a switch to imitate turning the key "on" and then the push button will be engaging the starter.

When the key is on, it also lets the headlights turn on, which have a separate switch, but NO power with the key off. Is this possible, or will I have to have 2 switches and a button? (Kill switch, "accessories" switch, and starter button)

All I can find online is basically get rid of all stock wiring, besides like 3 wires. Have a switch that is connected to the engine kill wire, then to the chassis for ground, and then the push button from + to the solenoid engagement wire, and then solenoid from battery + to starter, and the wire from the "alternator" to the battery + or the solenoid wire that comes from the battery to charge.

That WOULD work, and disable the extra sensors, but then I would have a standalone accessories switch that will always have power even with the mower off, which I don't want.

(Again, this mower will no longer be used for mowing)
So theres the seat, cutting deck engage, and the clutch switch. The seat is broke as it is, the switch is held "down" with a hose clamp to simulate someone sitting in the seat, and the mower deck is gone, so that switch is useless excess wiring, and the clutch switch would be great because I have to somewhat stand up to press the pedal like 3/4" farther to hit the switch when the brake is pressed, so please don't bother with the "These switches are there for a reason, etc posts. I assume all responsibility for my actions.)

Thanks in advance! Looking forward to your suggestions, as this site helped tremendously with my backyard waterfall/pond.

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Comments (6)

rcbe
9 years ago
That "I assume all responsibilty" disclaimer doesn't mean squat when some ambulance chaser is after blood. Wouldn't touch your project with a 10 foot pole.
JRJ252
9 years ago
I am having a problem with my John Deere L110 Tractor. I was finishing up mulching leaves and it stalled. I turned key off, it starts up fine but when I disengage the brake the engine stops. With the brake on and tractor running, I engage the blades, it stalls out again. Not sure what to do, I cleaned out the entire chute, etc as I thought something may be clogged. This didn't help, any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Thank you
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yardman1081- RUN (don't walk) with that power washer to the nearest trash can and give it a quick toss. Worst thing you could EVER turn loose on a lawn tractor. Use compressed air or leaf blower instead. M/W, remove spark plug(s) and crank engine - Observe if liquid is expelled out spark plug hole(s). If so, continue cranking engine until no more liquid is seen coming out - replace plug(s). Immediately drain/replace crankcase oil and filter as most likely water has entered crankcase. Remove air cleaner and allow cleaner element to dry - if wet from water. Allow ALL engine components to dry completely also. Using RATTLECAN CARB CLEANER, spray several shots directly into carb throat while assistant is cranking engine in a normal fashion (1/2 throttle, no choke, PTO off, Cl/Brake pedal fully depressed). Engine should start/run. If not, post back with details and we will go from there. Note: your starter motor most likely hangs like a "pail" and will catch/hold water from that washer - don't know if it has a drain hole or not. Just hope it does...
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briandye
Original Author
9 years ago
Your completely unnecessary comment is exactly what I said to not waste my time with.

Please enlighten me where this "bloody mess" will be coming from? This is essentially now a go car or 4 wheeler that travels at about 5MPH. What safety switches are on quads or go carts that go 40+ MPH? Because surely you aren't insinuating that i'm gonna cut body parts off with the cutting deck, because I clearly said that is NOT on the rider.

Maybe you should take your 10 foot pole and throw some reading glasses on the end of it before you post.
wheely_boy
9 years ago
briandye, this is why there are only a couple of posts a week on this forum.
rcbe
9 years ago
OP - roller girl will be happy to help you out... he's known for his deep pockets and shallow intellect..
tomplum
9 years ago
To the OP. Maybe the philosophy is that with no mowing deck, it is no longer a mower and doesn't require the safety switches. Still, you may want to run through the what ifs in your mind and be sure that is the right choice. Seat switches are even a great tool as if you should fall off, the tractor will at least stop, not keep going and do damage to something else. Onward to your project: You could use a variety of switches to crank, shut off and run the headlights- but you could really do that with one switch. If you will be rewiring it anyways, just the cheapest ignition switch that would replace what you have would work. Some switches have a light function in them. It would be a cleaner install. Don't forget the fuse in the wire that travels from the solenoid to the + on the switch.

JRJ- unsure why you didn't start your own thread , but it sounds like you have a problem with the seat switch or the wiring. Please start a new thread should you need more help.

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