Another thought.
Since the problem started after a summer of gas w/ethanol.
Perhaps the ethanol has dammage the float needle in the carb. This would cause gas to trickle through the carb and into the oil while the unit was not in use. The longer the unit sits between use the more gas would leek through.

My earlier message was meant for the guy with the white smoke.

Sorry

jdloader

You could re-jet the carb...or just get gas without ethanol.

I'd get different gas.

Water containing suspended crud will float on top of regular gasoline keeping it out of your fuel line (unless you run the tank dry). Introducing a gas/ethanol blend will mix everything together. This happens because ethanol mixes with both gas and water.

The first thing I would do is replace the fuel filter. If that didn't cure the problem, I'd clean the carb.

-Deerslayer

Thanks, sounds like I will need to pull everything apart and clean & dry - I'm pretty careful with fuel but I suppose you never know what your getting. MA. just went to Ethanol in May of 2006 - lots of nightmares with boats and small equipment.

Bill

"Water containing suspended crud will float on top of regular gasoline keeping it out of your fuel line (unless you run the tank dry)."

I had that backwards.

I think that you have the right idea. Cleaning your fuel system and filling your tank with clean fresh gas should solve the problem.

-Deerslayer

Your symptoms are typical of a lean mixture. The addition of the ethanol creates a lean mixture. Is your carburetor adjustable?

Welcome to the club! We've been running that crap here in Wisconsin "Tax Hell" for several years. Here's what you can look forward to; less performance,reduced mpg and higher prices. But it's all good for the enviroment. Reduced mpg so I burn more and have to buy more often, but the farmers like it because they have another outlet to sell corn.(Nothing against farmers but the whole thing hacks me off in case you can't tell)
Next up, metered on ramps on the interstate because We're too stupid to know how to properly merge with traffic and increased idling time to burn more of that fine,fine reformulated crap fuel.
What was your problem again?

I would drain and clean the ENTIRE fuel system,and than try non ethenol fuel.Ethanol forulated gasoline is getting a lot of undeserved complaints. TBK

To answwer a few questions above:

1) I can't buy non-ethenol fuel in this state. They went to 10% ethenol fuel in May of 06 state wide.

2) There are no carb adjustments on this machine.

3) I'm with you a 100% runny214 but only other choices are diesel or electric right now, that does not work for me.

Used mower last night, it is rolling like mad, I did not top off tank and will run it dry then add fuel, I need to finish cleaning up leaves before I tear it down, could snow soon!

One Thing I haven't seen mentioned is the Solvent effect the Ethenol blends have on all the varnish/Crud that has accumulated in the fuel system.
In cars the swap to the Blended Fuel is great for auto shops swapping Fuel filters. I see no reason why this would not occur in small engines w/o a filter, with all the crud ending up in the carb.

Jim

I just replaced the fuel pump on my Deere LX176. The rubber diaphragms inside were all distended. Local shop says that the ethanol fuels are killing the older Mikuni pulse pumps.

And yes, you basically can't get non-ethanol fuel anymore. It's all 10%, unless you buy aviation fuel.

I've had no problems with 10% E on any of my vehicles or yard toys inc my JD. While May was the official start date, 10% has been available in MA since late 2005, so I wouldn't immediately point the finger of blame there. Does it run better with a little choke?

Just go through it making sure both air and fuel filter are new, spark plug is in good condition and is gapped correctly etc. The varying speed effect is quite commonly reported in these forums and a search may also uncover other tips

With regards to my fuel pump problem, it is a well known fact that most rubbers that are resistant to gasoline are not resistant to alcohol, and vice versa. Now, a 10% solution is not that bad. However, after autopsying my fuel pump, I found no signs of clogging, gumming, or deposits but I did clearly see that when the diaphragm was wet with fuel, it would distend, but when dry, it would be taut like it was supposed to be. I offer that the alcohol had attacked the rubber and rendered it "too stretchy".

Beings you have no choice you might try some of that octane boost additive (104 or something like that) at the auto parts stores. Measure the amount you put in and add or take away to get the right mixture. A bottle treats 15 gal. or so, so I would start off with a pop bottle cap full see it that does anything???

What's octane booster going to accomplish here? I don't think octane booster is going to make the alcohol disappear. It's still going to be there, it's just going to have octane booster too.

I'll bet your gas cans are contaminated with water or other debris. Perhaps it came from the gas station that way too.

For the original poster. Not a maintenance issue. Octane boost IMO will raise the heat level that the alcohol has taken away. Alcohol blend runs cooler and make less power. If that don't work run some avgas in it is about 115 octane. As for the fuel pump failures guess it's another way they will get more money out of you by not making a fuel pump that will survive with re-newable fuels. Something we all will have to look foward to sooner or later.

For machiem, I have learned the value of using a filter funnel for fueling all my small engines, especially a generator in freezing weather. I keep a spare fuel line filter at hand also.

I've used ethanol blended gasoline for over 20 years here in Illinois. It's the only choice we have. It's not a problem in a new engine, however, as someone already pointed out, when first introduced into an older engine, the blend tends to loosen crud which then clogs gas filters and carbs. After you clean out your fuel system and fill with fresh, clean blended gas your engine will run fine.

-Deerslayer

Okay, here is the latest update on my machine - I ran fuel tank dry today and wicked up remainder with a paper towel. I drained carb and cleaned main jet. I replaced fuel filter and added new gas. Wow, what a difference - she runs like new again. I'm glad at this point I don't have to pull the whole thing apart. Thanks for all you inputs. Now its almost time to put her away until next spring, I plan to run it dry ....

Bill

onyamark:

Are you close enough to a state that doesn't burn only ethanol blends? It might be worth the trip to avoid that garbage in the future.

Wait until they start forcing E85 gas on us consumers.

I agree completely with Deerslayer, The midwest has been using Ethanol blended gas for years. I have used it since it became available and I have never had any problems with it in any of my vehicles or small engines.

jrouleau,
You have to have a vehicle specially equipped to run E85 fuel. If you use it in a vehicle not equipped to run it, It will not run.

onyamark

Glad you got the 'crud' out. You should have no concerns about using 10% ethanol blend in your Craftsman. A 10% ethanol blend could be a problem for seals and rubber carburator parts in old equipment, but not for anything made in the last 20 years or so. As deerslayer and mfd480 already pointed out, large parts of the country have been using this stuff for years with out a problem. As far as decreased power output, you would probably only notice it if you put your tractor on a dynamometer. Egads man, with a 21 hp engine driving a what, 42" deck?; you probably have a 30% power reserve!

t

Ya, I think it was all caused by the switch over and possible mixing of non ethanol fuel with the new ethanol blend. Basically ALL my small equipment is having some issues but not as bad as the tractor was. I'm sure we will work out the crud in time all will be good again.

And yes "T" a rather big motor (21 HP) for a tractor running a 42" deck, the power comes in handy when the lawn is long and wet.

I would not have bought this but could not pass up the deal at $1000 and only used 4-5 times and it has the big pick up tubs in the back. Works well for me and I have had no issues for 4 years (except this gas one) yet.

Read follow up,about #9,from Tom_K_DE.It seems it was not the ethanol after all,althought many jumped on the "bandwagon".LOL.JMHO..........Tom_K_DE

deerslayer, Water does NOT float on top of gas. If it did we pilots wouldn't be able to sump the water out of our gas in our airplanes. Try again.

rcmoser, avation fuel is 100 octaine low lead =100LL, unless you get jetA or JP4 which are both pretty much kerosene. There used to be 80LL but it's gone now.

deerslayer, sorry I hadn't gotten to your retraction post before my last post.
Everyone, try the 100LL for a tank or two to clean up the crud in your systems. Then change your spark plugs because they will lead foul. The lawn mower factory "MTD" here in Tennessee uses it to test all thier mowers before sending them out because they know they will be sitting before being bought and the 100LL doesn't turn to varnish while sitting up. We run it in all our honda and B&S 5-10hp loading equipment engines. They have all been running on it for years and still run like new. Best of all we don't have to winterize them.

I'd like to try 100LL in my cub cadet but our rinky dinky airport won't sell it to you and don't know where else to get it.

I heard a rumor that boat marina's sell non alcohol gas.

But here in Minnesota, a few stations also sell it.

JerryO

Unless the motor is setup to run ethanol, then eventually it will run into problems. Ethanol eats rubber parts over time( according to Popular Mechanics). Its also a fact that ethanol doesnt have as high of octane rating ( takes more ethanol to run a motor then gasoline does) . Id suggest meybe an octane boost additive. It probably wouldnt hurt to rebuild the carb/change fuel filter either.
Kidd

Do not waste your time and money on octane booster. The popular belief is that the higher the octane the hotter the fuel. Octane actually increases flash point to deter detination in high compression engines such as aircraft. In small engines and standard engines in automobiles it will do no good and may actually decrease performance.

""This all started when we went over to a 10% Ethanol in the gas this summer for Massachusetts.""

Get a few 6 gallon gas cans and stock up on gas in the winter when gas is cheaper anyway! 12 to 18 gallons should be plenty depending on the size of your yard, the growing season, etc... If it starts to look like your going to run out before the end of summer either pick up more while out of state on vacation or just top off your gas cans to with the ethanol blend which will dillute the 10%.

Same issue but worst - this Crapsman is really running crappy! RPM's rolling amd down drastically, seems to be running rich, no adjustments.

onyamark, the original poster fixed the same problem by running out the fuel, changing the fuel filter, and cleaning the main jet on his carb.

-Deerslayer

Deerslayer, He was the OP. Sounds as if the problem is back.

TMajor, my mistake...thanks for the correction.

OnYaMark, did your engine run properly during the summer? Do you have rust or other crud in your gasoline container? Have you changed the fuel filter since last year?

-Deerslayer

Wait until you run it in your 2-stroke engines. The alcohol absorbs moisture (water) and this component of the fuel won't mix with the oil. What happens is that you will eventually get a slug of fuel with alcohol and disolved water, and little lubrication. These slugs of low lubrication content will wear out the cylinder walls and rings of the two-cycle engines much faster. Performance will be less too, due to the lower BTU content of ethanol-laced fuel.

Ethanol is good for the producers, and temporarily good for the corn growers, but it will help ruin our economy in the long run.

Hi,

This is a 21 HP Briggs 2 cyl engine.
I'm very careful with my gas.
Get fresh monthly
Strain before putting in to tank
Keep gas in dry shed
Just changed filter
Tried Startron in one tank, no change
Ran better in summer yes, but still not right.

If I choke slightly even at high RPM it smoothes out some.
I have lots of gas powered equipment and this tractor runs worst than anything else. All other items 2&4 stroke even my 20 year old Snapper push mower are running fine.

I probably need to pull carb off and go through it, but this makes no sense to me as I'm so careful with gas. I think it needs to be re-jetted some how as there is no adjustments. This could be a nightmare unless some has already figured out what to put in it.

One of the first things, I think of, with a problem like this, is the intake gaskets could be leaking. The reason being, the symptoms resemble that and it's so easy to check for. Spray some WD-40 or other flammable fluid around the intake gaskets, while running, to see if it smooths out and runs better.

I don't think that your carb needs a different jet size or other adjustment because B&S V-Twins are designed to run with 10% ethanol fuel. Even my cast iron, horizontal Kohler runs fine with 10% ethanol.

-Deerslayer

I tried spraying WD-40 around gaskets while it was running, no change. Everything checked out tight too.

Well, finally pulled carb, soaked and blew clean. All looked well except there was a little something clogged in the low idle jet, a very small hole was clogged. Machine runs like new agian. The ethanol might have helped to clean and dislodge something into the jet. I'm good for now, thanks for all the tips ...

JUST FYI....I was warned by all my OPEESA update schools NOT to run ANY of the E-fuels... they are not fuel injected machines that can accomodate the "weakness" of Ethanol

And with a Federal Mandate that all gasoline be blended with at least 10% ethanol........how can one NOT run ANY of the "E-fuels"??