What does a multi. metter say about the battery in your tractor?

YES IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!

First off, sounds like you have the wrong battery. I forget what the right one is called, but it is like a small car battery with round posts. Also, depending on the year and hours, the voltage regulator may be bad. But, the battery seems to be wrong.

I have a 2000 GT235 with 250 hours and is great and I have had to replace the battery.

Georg

If the battery light is on it usually means the charging system isn't working.
The electric pto is probably causing too much voltage drop on a discharged battery for the engine to run well.
Get it fixed & get the proper size battery. JD bateries are fine,but any battery store can sell you the right battery if you give them the right size & spec.

This summer I bought a charger because the battery in my old truck needs to be charged once in a while because I drive it so little. The truck battery takes hours to charge even though it has a fairly new battery. (I'll never buy another battery from Advance Auto, but that's another story).

My 1999 JD225 still has the original battery in it, and as it had set all winter without being run I thought I might as well charge that battery up too. The charger only ran a minute or two and showed "Full". I thought that John Deere battery must be some good battery. But then It ought to be as a new one like it costs about $80.00. But it's not like those you see at WalMart. It's half again as big. My advice is to bite the bullet and buy one from JD. It's a really good battery.

I'm betting that the voltage regulator is fried - have had 2 fail on a 1996 GT275 w/ a Kaw. eng. in 11 yrs and 1 fail on a 2002 DLT2K Craftsman w/ a B&S eng. in 5 yrs.
The way to trouble shoot them is check the output of the alternator (disconnect it from the regulator) should be about 25 to 28 VAC, if OK then reconnect the alternator to the regulator and check the Voltage at the battery should be about 11.5 to 12 VDC without the engine running (key off) and 13.5 to 14.5 VDC with the engine running at speed (above 2500 rpm).
Regulator is a easy replacement - alternator is more difficult.

I don't know if the GT 235 has a fuse in the charging circuit but I know my Dixie Chopper has one which I had to replace. On equipment that is used intermittently, an automatic battery charger such as a marine battery charger is a good investment.
An unnecessary strain is put on the starting circuit and the charging circuit when the battery charge is just barely adequate the start the tractor. Its a good idea to first bring a battery to full charge with a battery charger before attempting to start the tractor if it has not been started for a month or more. The alternator has no mechanical parts that contact each other so as stated in the above post the regulator is probably bad.

trafficscout,
Your JD (and mine) require a 500 cold-cranking amps battery. It's not like a small automotive battery, it IS a small automotive battery. You don't necessarily need to spend the $$$ on the name-brand John Deere battery. Any similar automotive battery that fits in the box will work. I'd try Sam's first. The little batteries Lowes sells are for the LA series John Deeres and other light duty mowers.

Once that's straightened out, you need to find out why it went dead in the first place (see Steve2ski's post).
I use my tractor year-round, but I still keep a trickle charger on it. I have a pretty simple Black and Decker BM2B 1A/2A charger that I bought at Walmart a year ago to keep voltage on the ECM while I changed the battery in my car. It's basically set it and forget it, since it automatically goes from charge to float. It has three plugs: cig adapter, standard clamps, and a hard-wired plug adapter (which I'll put on one of these days). If you keep one of these on your tractor, assuming there are no other problems, the battery will last for years (my OE 5-year-old JD battery is still going strong). It's when people let them discharge and sit that shortens their life.
IMHO, Optima makes the best batteries, but I don't think they make one which will fit in the tractor.

Everyone knows batteries are date-stamped just like milk and eggs, right? That little two-digit sticker on the side is the date code. The letter is the month, and the number is the year. Example: B7 (made in February 2007). Buy fresh!

Here is a link that might be useful: trickle charger / maintainer

Hello, I bought a Solar powered 12 volt charger & mounted the 12"x 12" panel on the out side of my shed and leave it hooked up to my tractor battery during the winter months to keep it charged. You can find these on ebay and they are cheap, they are mostly used for snow mobiles. It would take a long time though to charge a fully dead battery, but in the last three winters my battery never went dead from sitting.

Glenn

First off if the thing an't charging it going to wear any battery down. Batteries are batteries wheather they are round or square posts. JD put and extra big battery in that tractor which nothing wrong with that except when you try to go cheap on replacement battery. Nothing wrong with a 325 CCA square post battery it will start the air cooled engine as long as you have a good connection. But, that still don't keep the battery charged up. IMO Your first thought or process should of been MAKE SURE THE ENGINE CHARGING system is charging? IF the voltage falls below 12V I guessing the light comes on? which IMO means after a while the battery will go dead and the tractor will stop.

Marineguy,
Good to see you posting. This is off topic but I saw the article in Time on the Osprey. I hope it's inacurate. I knew some Ospreys going accross the pond... take care.

Initially, that article fired me up a bit, but I had to remind myself that no one ever accused the American Media of being unbiased or ethical; they are in the business of selling magazines, not purveying the truth. Controversy sells and the Osprey is an easy target.

It doesn't need to autorotate well because it's not a helicopter. It's an airplane, which easily glides to a soft landing in the event of a dual engine flameout (destroying the proprotor blades, but that doesn't affect the survivability). Sure, when we convert to helicopter mode on short final, a loss of both powerplants would result in a drop from about 100 feet (the seats stroke so everyone would probably survive). But if they're good enough to take out both engines, spaced 45 feet apart, of an aircraft flying a 100mph short approach, why wouldn't they just shoot the pilots?
All that talk about a forward-firing weapon is complete nonsense. No assault support aircraft (the ones which deliver the trigger pullers to the fight) in the US inventory have forward-firing ordnance. That's why we have escorts armed with TOWs, Hellfires, AIM-9s, 20mm cannons, and various other brutal instruments of death. The LZ is neutralized by the escort aircraft before the troops are inserted.
I tried to find a bio on Mark Thompson, since it's obvious he knows absolutely nothing about aviation. It's like the story was written based on rumors he heard in the men's room of the Pentagon, six years ago.
It's sad that public opinion is based on what people read in these once reputable news sources (because that's all most have to go on). The article is complete garbage, and you actually become less informed about the Osprey and Marine Aviation after reading it.
If you want I can email you the counterpoint to every false claim made in that article, released by the public affairs office.

In the end, it doesn't matter what half-truths get thrown out there or what supporting documents I cite to rebuke the naysayers, the V-22s are in the fight. A squadron of Ospreys flew into Iraq a few days ago, and as soon as the pilots receive all the requisite threat briefs, they will be executing the mission.

Marineguy,
Good to hear! Thought I'd get the straight dope from you. I know almost nothing about marine aviation myself. If I lose power in the planes I fly, oh well, guess I have to look for a landing spot. :^) Of course The media never screws up the story when it comes to the medical field either! LOL
One comparison I did read that made more sense was comparing the V22's to another Marine craft, the Harriers. Both VTOL crafts that don't do well if the bottom drops out on short final in the vertical mode. Harrier has proven itself and from what you say, seems like the Osprey will as well. I guess I share Eisenhower's sceptical outlook on the "corporate-governmental autocracy" and their ability to push through things that may not be in the public interest. When it gets to involving people I "know" then it is a little more personal and I can't help being concerned. Happy flying!

From the owner of a 2000 GT235 with B&S 18HP V-Twin Vanguard...

Ditto what others have said about getting the _correct_ battery with Round terminals and 500 CCA capacity.

To keep your battery conditioned when not in use for long periods of time I recommend a Battery Tender Plus. I have one. They work well  money well spent IMO.
http://batterytender.com/default.php?cPath=11_2&osCsid=919c62601bf09f65d3d3feeebde57d89

HereÂs some very good info from a hardcopy I have of a GW thread from back in 2005. A guy had 2000 GT235 that ran fine, but the charging light was staying on all the time. Here is part of ÂEngine_TechÂs reply.
"Do you have a 3-wire regulator or 5-wire? The earlier tractor used a 3-wire and a separate "discharge module" (looks like a M80 firecracker) to trigger the low voltage light. Later tractors used a 5-wire regulator, and the regulator controlled the light internally (no separate module). Look for good connections at all of these components. Look for wires backing out of connectors too. The light comes on if the battery or tractor system voltage is below 12.4VDC. ThatÂs pretty sensitive, so if there are any bad connections or voltage drops the light will come on."

If you have the GT235 Technical Manual, check out pages 5-34 and 5-35.

I have the original 7 year old battery in my 2000 GT235. My charging light has been coming on and off this year. But it starts fine and has no loss of power. I need to check my connections  as stated above. My Battery Tender Plus has helped keep this battery in good working order for 7 years.

Ken  PA

Thanks for the replies. I have the 3 wire with the m-80.

I was able to locate the voltage regulator but before I change it I tried some other things first.

I added distilled water to my original JD battery and gave it a good charge. Sld have tried that first before buying sure shot battery with square plugs.

I tested the fully charged battery with multimeter and the battery reads 12.74 with the tractor off and 12.44 with the tractor running. But the Battery light is still on.

I cut the lawn about 15 min and ran the test again and the battery read 12.45 with tractor off and 12.32 with tractor on.

The results suggest that the battery is not being charged.

How do I test the voltage regulator and alternator with a multi meter?

Disconnect the connector to the VR.
The 2 wires from the alternator should give you a MINIMUM of 28V AC.

Did you ever check the FUSE?

Quote: "Nothing wrong with a 325 CCA square post battery it will start the air cooled engine as long as you have a good connection."

Unfortunately, not so on these tractors. To simplify the drive system, JD got rid of the mechanism that slackens the belt when you start the tractor (when pushing in the brake). Slackening the belt would prevent the starter from turning they transmission as the engine cranks, which would allow the use of a smaller battery. JD found it cheaper and more reliable to put larger starters and the 500CCA batteries on these tractors instead. A 325CCA might work OK in the summer, but in the cold it probably won't be able to turn over the engine and the cold transmission. Thus, poor starting. Get a round post 500CCA if you have more troubles.

Still betting the regulator - using the proper troubleshooting techniques - takes 15 mins to know for sure. hint a new battery won't fix a bad requlator.

Thanks for all your help. Problem is solved. I changed the voltage regulator and no more battery light. Thanks

FYI The dates on milk,eggs etc is the last date the product can be sold.The date on a battery is the date maunfactured.If there is a warranty,and owner has no receipt,date on battery is to be used in computing warranty time left,and any $$$ to be returned to battery owner. That little "idiot" light indicating "no charge",shows NO charge.As little as two amp alternator ouput on twenty amp output alternator will not turn on the light.When using electric PTO drawing 5-6 amps,light will be out,but there can be a 3-4 deficeit charge and eventually the battery can "die" while in use.

I know my friends JD GT225 charge lights been going on/off for yrs too. The reg was always charging so he quit bothering me with testing it, been waiting for its reg or bat to fail for yrs before just replacing things but so far its still going, tight wad..lol

Not jumped its old battery yet that I know of though, its been about 8yrs since I put his last bat in and its a basic $20 lawn and garden battery from farm store. Not like he'll be stuck on the interstate on it because he's too tight to put that much gas in it..lol

I got the same battery with the sqare post. My wife didn't know post were round. My light stays on too. Why are store selling customers square post for that model mover? Are there post adapters for that battery? Or by a round post battery? I was thinking about taking the bolt out the tighten cable and put it in the hole in the square post to get a better connection. And tighten it up. Any suggestions?

Common enough, these can be charging fine,but the battery discharge sensor can fail. AM126691 if yours has this, there may be serial number breaks.