@dleverette When making 5:1:1 mix, I break-up the compressed chunks of peat so they pass through a 1/2" screen. I toss any sticks and such on top of the raised beds where they break down with time. Here's a tip you'll find very helpful. For large batches of 5:1:1, pour the bark onto a tarp laid on a flat surface, then wet the bark a bit. Then, add the screened peat and spread it over the bark. Add your lime on top of the peat, then put down the perlite and wet that. The trick is to use just enough water to make the mix damp when it's thoroughly mixed. Both peat and pine bark are hydrophobic (water repellent) when allowed to dry below about 20% of their water holding ability. This makes a dry 5:1:1 mix extremely difficult to rewet if you don't moisten it when you make it. The moisture in the mix diffuses, moistening the bark/ peat and "breaking" its tendency to repel water. Within 15-30 minutes of making the mix you can pot plants and water them in thoroughly w/o the frustration associated with trying to rehydrate a dry soil. FWIW, I don't use coir. As many times as I've tried it and cone comparative experiments, I've always had problems or been dissatisfied with the results. You might be interested in a comparison between peat and coir I wrote several years back: Peat vs. Coir Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue. Using coir as the primary component of container media virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a possible Ca source because of coir's high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which eliminates coir's low S content. All coir products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe. Several studies have also shown that the significant presence of phenolic allelochemicals in fresh coir can be very problematic for a high % of plants, causing poor growth and reduced yields. I haven't tested coir thoroughly, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because or the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil. The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited < 1/2 the biomass at summers end as the plants in the bark mix. I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (besides "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales. That's the view from here. YMMV Coir Study: https://sites.google.com/site/plantandsoildigest/usu-crop-physiology-laboratory/coconut-coir-studies Al

Oh my. I had to read your question a few times to figure out your meaning. I almost left a jokingly sarcastic reply about only being able to over-winter them in a plastic sheds ....... The plastic itself would do ok outdoors if they were empty. The problem arises when they are full of soil. If they get wet and freeze, the soil expands as it freezes and cracks the containers that are brittle from the cold. So - you can store them outside if they are empty or the soil is dry and will remain dry. Storing them in an unheated garage is also a possibility if the soil is dry & won't be subjected to freezing. Otherwise, it would be a good idea to move them indoors. That said, all 'plastics' are not created equal. There are plastic formulations elastic enough to withstand soil expansion from freezing temperatures, but usually these command a premium price & the fact they ARE freeze resistant is prominently mentioned on the packaging when you purchase. BTW - the freeze damage doesn't occur because of the -10* temps you mentioned Water is most dense at 39*. As it continues to cool, it expands. When water freezes, it expands dramatically - almost 10%. This usually occurs between the temperatures of 32-28*, which is actually the critical temperature range for your pots. Once the temperatures drop lower, water starts to contract again. Al

I only use containers to grow "gallions" -- green garlic scallions. In late winter when I have extra garlic, I use winter sowing techniques to get the cloves up and growing. The most common practice is to use a gallon milk jug. You cut 3/4 around the middle to make a hinged lid, punch drainage holes, plant in the bottom and then tape it shut and put it outside. I don't think any container would be a fair variety trial because it would not maintain consistent temperatures. Even a 5-gallon double bucket, as is used for tomatoes, would get too warm at times, or maybe too cold. You would get some garlic, but it wouldn't be a fair trial. Your winter plan is good, but it will be less work to plant garlic in the ground, with a better outcome. The only reasons I can see to force cloves in containers are for gallions or for transplanting in early spring.

Both the fruit and the leaves can experience sun scald which presents as a white scar-like spot. However, I'm not sure if 95ð is high enough for that issue to present.