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Daylily Seed and Winter Sowing

laurelin
14 years ago

I've seen a couple questions/comments about winter sowing daylilies on GW, and I shared this information on another thread. Maybe it will be helpful to others wondering if they can harvest their own daylily seed for winter sowing:

Daylilies are self-fertile, but also freely cross with any other daylily nearby (they're insect-pollinated). If you want identical plants to your favorite daylily plant, you'd have to transplant divisions of the original plant. If you want to self-cross them (cross-pollinate a plant with itself, which can result in mostly similar but not necessarily identical flowers on the new plants, and a few wild cards for good measure), you can. Or you can cross-pollinate different daylilies and see what new blooms you'll get. Keep in mind it takes 2-3 years for a daylily to bloom from seed.

To self-cross a plant, early on a morning, take pollen from one flower and dab it on the pistil of the same flower. The tip of the pistil should be sticky, and you should really cover it with pollen, just pile it on. If the pollen "takes," you'll see the ovary at the base of the flower thicken and swell within a couple days. If the pollen doesn't "take," the ovary will shrivel and snap off easily - also in a couple days. (The petals may not fall off on their own if it's a heavy-textured flower - you can just break off the petals once they've dried a bit, or you can snip or tear them off above the ovary.) If you want to cross different plants, it's the same technique: dab pollen in the AM (fertilization success is better while the temps are below 80-ish), and then put a little label on the ovary so you remember what you crossed. If you're really concerned about keeping the pollen "pure" you can gently fold a little square of foil over the tip of the pistil after you dab the pollen, so no bee spoils your hard work, lol. (Of course seeds of unknown parentage will lead to lovely flowers too.)

Letting the plant set a handful of pods won't set it back at all. The pods take 45-60 days to ripen; you'll know they're ripe when they begin to split (the pods don't have to be completely brown, but the seeds should be BLACK). Each pod can yield 6-16 seeds. The seeds should be dried on a windowsill for a week or two, then refrigerated in a plastic baggie until you're ready to sow them over the winter. (I keep mine in the onion drawer of the fridge.)

If you know the name of your plant, you can find out if it's diploid or tetraploid (having two sets of chromosomes, or 4 - daylilies can be either). Dips usually won't cross with Tets. Dips usually have narrower foliage and thinner scapes, while tets are often sturdier plants with thicker scapes. Check out Tinker's Daylily Database (www.tinkersgardens.com) to look up ploidy (i.e. dip or tet). Not all daylilies are equally fertile. Some will set as many pods as they have flowers; some won't set any at all no matter how much you dab pollen on them. Some will have good pollen to use on other plants, but not be good pod-setters themselves.

If you have wild "ditch" lilies, they'll be mostly sterile and unlikely to cross with other daylilies in your garden.

Winter sown daylilies develop robust root systems - I plant 4 to a milk jug, so they don't get too tangled up in each other. Then I plant them out in a seedling bed to develop until they bloom in a year or two, at which point I can decide if I like their flowers. Or you can just put them where you want as seedlings and wait for the surprise when they bloom.

I hope this helps other winter sowers who love daylilies!

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