(1) The seed need a cold treatment at 40F for 2-3 months. this can be achieved by storing seed in refrigator or sowing them outside in the fall (1b) Depth of seed just lightly cover them (2) Normally not all the seed will be viable BUT what % varies from plant, season growing conditions, time left on plant etc etc... may test butif you just go ahead & plant ... and if you get to many plants give the extras to neighbors, friends

I have the following for SASBE: canna Richard Wallace rhizomes Florence Vaughn rhixomes White Butterfly Ginger ehizomes Purple Mexican Petunia cuttings White nerium oleander rooted Please email jen@gulfcoastrentals.com

Maybe there is a misunderstanding ? Oriental lilies do not develop bulbils (offsets) on the stems. Typically asiatic lilies and tiger lilies will do this. Oriental lilies can develop seeds, however. The seeds develop inside the embryo of the flower (big puffy seed pods will develop where flower used to be). You can harvest the seeds when the pod turns brown (late fall). After you have harvested the seed pods, break them open over a piece of paper and you will find many disc like falkes. If you hold the flakes (seeds) up to light only some of them will have something "inside" them. If the flakes are clear (empty) then they are not fertile and should be discarded. Only some seeds (flakes) will be good. If the lily has not been visited by bees at all, none of the flakes may be any good. You will have to try and chance it. The best way is to put the seeds in a plastic bag (ziplock) of slightly moist seed starting mixture or cactus planting mixture. Leave plastic bag at 65-70F for 4 months keeping it barely moist. Then put in the fridge for 3 month at which time small bulbs develop. Finally bring out and plant the small bulbs 1/4" deep in small pots. Plant outdoors after last chance of frost. Oriental lilies will not create plants which are true to type (e.g. the offspring will most likely not look like the parent). It is often easier to simply scale the lily to create more lilies. You can use below link for an explanation how to do that. I started of by mentioning that some asiatic and tiger lilies (lilium lancifolium) produce bulbils at the leaf axis (along the leaves of the stem) and that orientals do not do that. Below you can see a picture of bulbils on a tiger lily. The bulbils are clones (100% identical to the mother plant) and can be planted shallowly in loose soil (mix compost or potting soil into the top 3" of soil and plant covered with 1/2" of amended soil. Then cover with 2" layer of shredded leaves in early winter, and remove this layer in early spring). The bulbils will create flowering lilies in 2-3 years. Note: bulbils are identical clones which occur on some asiatic and tiger lilies. Oriental lilies do not produce them. You have to reproduce them via seeds (which takes about 5 years to bloom) and which will not create identical results. You can also scale the oriental lily bulb as mentioned in the referenced article. Article link: http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/18505/105602 Here is a picture of a lily with bulbils. The bulbils should be harvested and planted after flowering is complete. As mentioned, bulbils are not seeds but actually miniature (cloned) bulbs ready to be planted. Here is a link that might be useful: Scaling lily bulbs - article

You will want to wait untill the pods are brown and start to crack open. The seeds should be about 3/16" in diameter, shaped kind of like a fat teardrop, and will be flat and papery. They are about the same color as cornflakes =) Fertile seeds will have a bump in the middle, thats the 'embryo.' You should get several hundred seeds from each pod. btw, just fyi, I hand pollenate my lilies, or I don't get many fertile seeds. Last year, left to their own devices, I got one pod that was about half fertile and half sterile seeds. This year, after hand pollenating last summer, I got four huge pods with nearly all fertile seeds.