You can download the service manual from the Kohler website.

These should be hydraulic. I take you feel you have a compression release issue?

I had all ready looked up the Kohler manual but didn't see the part on adjusting the valves. I looked again and found that I had to tighten the rocker arm bolt down to torque specs.I took the valve covers off and found nothing amiss. All were tight. So I rolled the engine over several times and could see the exhaust valve open just a little as the engine rolled up to top dead center on the compression stroke. I assume that this is the compression release you are talking about. I'm in the house now waiting for the battery to charge up (left the key on over night). I'll wait until tomorrow morning to see if it will roll over on it's own. Otherwise I'll jump the battery from my truck and see if that helps. Thanks for the help so far.

Paul

Hopefully, you had your battery charged & TESTED before you bought the starter motor?

A 2 year old garden tractor battery is suspect. Sometimes they fail sooner.

just HOW should the OP have his battery TESTED , Mr. Kapaun?

Many Auto Parts Stores such as Auto Zone CAN test any auto or small engine battery, in your car in case of Auto battery.

Walt Conner

Some detail would be helpful. It SOUNDS like you are having difficulty cranking this engine? Is it cranking easily w/ the spark plugs removed? Any history that goes along with this such as a no charging scenario or a lack of oil event? What is it on? Did it start whatever it is doing all at once?

This is going to be hard to explain. My first indication of trouble was a couple of months ago when I first tried to start my tractor it would turn about a 1/4 of a turn and stop cranking like pushing water with the piston. Then I would restart and it would turn over good and start. Last Saturday I tried to start it and it turned a 1/4 turn and stopped. Tried again and nothing. I noticed the amp gauge moved (-) and heard the starter solenoid click but no starter. I jumped the battery from my truck but no dice. Just clicking. Jumped right to the starter and all it did was 1/4 turn and stop. I did not think about taking the plugs out until after I ordered a new starter. I looked on you-tube and found a lot of info on Briggs motors and one on Kohler push mower. They all had solid lifters I assume. But all symptoms were the same as mine. So I down loaded the Kohler Manual on my engine and missed the part about tightening the rocker arm bolt down tight.Hydraulic lifters I took off the rocker arm covers and the rocker arm bolt were tight and noticed the compression relief bump on the exhaust valves. My starter solenoid came today so I replaced that because I knew that was bad because I could short across the old one and the starter would try to do it's thing. So with battery charged, old starter in and new starter solenoid installed I hit the starter switch and the starter turned a 1/4 turn and stalled, hit the switch again and the starter took hold and the engine fired and took off running. tried several more times and started every time. I guess my question now is-does this engine have some kind of smart start to help this turn over easier on starting? or can you tell me to look at something else to get past this acting like it's coming up against a cylinder full of water.

I do appreciate the help so far. Paul

This engine is in a 2000 Craftsmen GT tractor.

" can you tell me to look at something else to get past this acting like it's coming up against a cylinder full of water."

Have you taken the spark plug(s) out to see if it blows gasoline out? (Take precautions) IF it does then the carb float needle is leaking letting gasoline into the cylinder causing hydroloc just as you described above. How about the oil level? IF gas is leaking into the cylinder then the oil is contaminated and needs changed. An inline gas line shut off will cure this problem even if you put a new float needle in the shut off is good insurance.

Walt Conner

kart76 - Please pay close attention to what Walt said about contaminated crankcase oil.
To check, simply pull dipstick and smell residual oil on the stick... if you smell raw fuel, immediately drain old oil; replace with fresh along with new filter if so equipped. Contaminated crankcase oil with raw fuel loses it's lubricating properties and will not effectively protect your engine from serious damage.
The inline fuel shutoff valve Walt mentions is inexpensive and can be purchased at most small engine shops. Just remember to use it each time when shutting down engine.

If there are no signs of the engine hydraulically locking, I guess that I would check for a sheared flywheel key next myself. You'll want to verify by spec # if it is partially sheared looking.

I think the problem is solved. I started it several times the last couple of days and it starts perfect every time. I put the original stater back in with the new starter solenoid. I think the problem was the old solenoid was getting burnt from 10 years of starting.

I want to thank everyone for their help and good suggestions. I work on those this winter.

Thanks, Paul

Seen this post about starting problem, make sure the ground is good and clean and a star washer is used but my question is this do the kohler cv22 HAVE hydraulic lifters? Changed oil on a new purchase and sounded great sat for a week and the valves sound like adjustment needed. Straight 30 engine oil wont run no other can they be adjusted??