Did you check for spark?

yes i pulled the plug grounded it and verified spark, a little week but it was good.

engine info
model OHV175 204803B
Engine family YTPXS7902AA
DISP 490

what is the min / max cylinder compression for this motor

put new plugs/possibly new coil on it. if you put fuel inteh carb it should at least TRY to fire. and with weak spark it may jus tnot be able to do so.

swapped the plug with no change, good solid blue spark now though. It seems as though no fuel is entering the cylinder even when i use a squirt bottle to prime it, is it possible to have a stuck valve and not be able to hear it?

Are you removing the spark plug to squirt gas into the cylinder? IF NOT, try that-

IF an OHV engine, one could simply remove the valve cover and observe if the valves are moving, when rotating the engine.

As bill mentioned, you probably should remove the valve cover and look for something amiss in the pushrod and rocker area. The usual scenario with "sticking valves" is: The engine is shut off after use and happens to stop with an INTAKE valve OPEN. Because the intake valve stem is in the induction passage it is exposed the the gasoline being inhaled by the cylinder. This gasoline tends to wash away or thin out the very small amount of engine oil on the valve stem, as well as depositing a film of varnish. If the intake valve is open when the engine comes to a stop, this varnish can cause the valve to "stick" in the open position the next time the engine is cranked up. Usually the valve spring is powerful enough to move the valve as soon as the engine begins to turn (or if the valve was not fully open and the pushrod gave it a "nudge" and broke it loose). If the valve sticks in the fully open position, when the engine begins to turn, the pushrod "runs away from" the rocker before the valve moves and the pushrod either falls completely out of place or (worse) the pushrod gets "caught" on the edge of the rocker. If the pushrod falls free of the rocker, the intake valve will not function after that (until it is repaired). If the pushrod gets caught on the edge of the rocker, it effectively makes the pushrod "too long" and as a result, the piston will strike the open valve and bend/break the pushrod and/or valve. As bill said, try putting a bit of gas into the spark plug hole. If the intake valve is not operating (because the pushrod fell out of place) you will not be able to "prime the engine" using the intake throat. A bit of gas into the spark plug hole should produce at least a momentary response even if the intake valve is not opening. If this turns out to be what's ailing the beast, you will want to begin adding some Marvel Mystery Oil (or other brand of "upper cylinder lube") to your gasoline to guard against a repeat event.

thank you all, i am on the road right now so i will try these things next weekend when i return, and post the results

ok i am back i pulled the plug and gave it a shot or two of gas. it tried to fire so i thinking it has to be a fuel delivery or a valve problem, i have never removed a cover from one of these motors what all do i need to remove to get to the valve train ?

Sounds like you had some crud in the tank or fuel line that clogged your new bowl kit.

Did you flush the line when you changed it?

i managed to pull the push rod, I assume it should not be shaped like an S or more like a lower case f. is it possible to just get a new one and install it or does the motor need to be torn down and inspected for damage (rod is intacted just well bent) ?

You are correct! The pushrod should not be shaped in any curved fashion. It should be as straight as an arrow. I assume the bent pushrod is for the intake valve? To install a new pushrod you will need to get the engine positioned in the beginning of the POWER stroke portion of the cycle. At this point in the cycle BOTH valves would normally be closed (and the camshaft lobes away from the lifters). Usually on these small engines you can manually depress the valve (using the rocker arm) to slip the new pushrod into place. It is crucial for the engine to be in the beginning of the power stroke in order for both lobes of the camshaft (for that cylinder) to be "not opening" a valve AND for the piston to be moving downward out of reach by a valve. It will be required that you perform a valve adjustment procedure before starting and operating the engine.

finally got the new pushrod in, when i installed it I noticed the valve is actually stuck closed. Even with the spring and keeper removed i cant push the valve open. I tapped it lightly a few time with a BFH and it moved open slightly what, would cause a valve to stick so badly with no previous warning signs

Well i used some oil and worked the valve open and closed manualy for a while and it seems to have done the trick. I assembled it and it ran nicely for a 30 minute trial. i will see how it handles mowing the yard tomorrow. i was told it is a good idea to run a tank of 2cycle mix from time to time to get oil to the lower valve stem any thoughts on this ???

Some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas would probably be better than 2 stroke oil. It's kind of designed for sticking valves etc.

ditto what bill said about using Marvel Mystery Oil. And not just "from time to time", you need to add some to all the fuel you run through this engine. To suppose that adding some upper cylinder lubricant to the gas "from time to time" will prevent a recurrence is kind of like saying "I'll add some oil to the gas for my 2 stroke engine from time to time".