I can't believe what I am reading! Mimosas invasive? I wish. Here in Hingham, Massachusetts, I am lucky to get a mimosa to grow. It's a 50:50 deal in that I lose about half to the cold winters. I have five that are now well established and seem to be winter hardy. My largest one just went into bloom and it is a show stopper! I see cars slow down when they drive by the tree just stare at it. The bees and hummingbirds got nuts for it. I have never seen another mimosa in my town of about 30,000 people. I occasionally find a mimosa seedling in one of my flower beds. It is rare and hardly a nuissance. In fact, two of my seedlings have developed into six-foot high trees. I'm proud that I was able to nurture them into healthy trees. Aboit four years ago, I was lucky enough to get a summer chocolate mimosa. For the first time, it started blooming yesterday and it is a real beauty. In short, here in New England, mimosas are like rare gems. I wish I had even more in my yard. Barring significant climate change, the cold winters will never allow these beauties to be an invasive species.

@scarediecats,. I found this on the web. I live in a neighboring state, Ohio, and thought I'd look up about my sister beautiful mimosa. (Bark is falling off) enjoy . Native to Iran and China, mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) was first introduced in the United States in the 1780s. Since then, the tree has spread throughout warm, mild regions. In fact, in some places, it is regarded as a weed because the seeds prolifically self-sow. Mimosa doesn't grow well in northern climates, but is well-adapted to mild coastal zones. Cold injuries, though not impossible, are rare here. Cold Injury Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9, mimosa can tolerate more cold than many trees growing in Mediterranean climates. In fact, cold injury is rare in these regions. However, a sudden, prolonged freeze can cause damage. Twigs and branches turn brown and die back. In extreme cases, the entire tree might die back. Occasionally, the trees' trunks develop cracks, caused by alternating periods of cold and warm temperatures. Sunscald occurs when the harsh winter sun damages the bark of young trees, causing brown or sunken patches on the trunk. These problems are rare in mimosas planted in mild climates. Prevention and Treatment Although you can't prevent frost damage in all cases, a few precautions can minimize the risk. Trees stressed by drought, poor soil or disease are more vulnerable to frost injury. Proper growing conditions can help trees weather cold temperatures. Growing trees in a protected area near a house or other trees can also help. Mimosa trees should never be fertilized in late summer. Fertilizing encourages new growth, prone to frost damage. If a tree does sustain injury, the best course is to prune back the branches to remove damage. Dead branches can be identified in one of two ways. Branches that fail to produce new growth in the spring are likely dead. Live branches will have soft, green material if you scrape away a bit of the bark. but dead branches are hard and brown. Make clean cuts one-quarter inch above an outward-facing bud to encourage new growth. Disease Frost damage is rare in coastal regions. Disease is the more likely culprit of injury or death to the mimosa tree. One disease, in particular, fusarium wilt, commonly infects mimosas. Yellowing leaves or early defoliation is the first symptom. As the disease progresses, the bark cracks and branches die back. Sometimes, the tree oozes a foul-smelling white or yellow foam. Eventually, the entire tree perishes. Unfortunately, no cure is available for this lethal disease, but prompt removal can prevent its spread. Distinguishing Between Disease and Cold Injury Because treatments vary, depending on the cause of the injury, it's important to distinguish between frost and disease damage. Frost damage occurs suddenly after a cold snap, while damage from disease usually progresses over several months or even years. Symptoms from frost damage occur primarily in the winter; disease damage is often most evident in the summer and fall.

Find a bee keeper that will come out and remove that hive. Normally, and contrary to what many people seem to believe, bees will not sting you or the children. Bees are out and about for one reason, to collect pollen from plants and make honey. The only reason a bee might sting anyone is because they feel threatened and once a bee stings that bee dies, so there is no incentive for any bee to sting. I have worked out in the garden with tons of bees working the blossoms with no problem. The one time I was stung by a bee I was no where near any flower, the bee was traveling somewhere and flew into the shop door I had just opened and was knocked down onto my arm where the wee bugger stung me, and died. In my experience, most everyone that has been stung by a "bee" has actually been stung by a Yellow Jacket, a wasp that looks a bit like a bee to people that do not know the difference. kimmq is kimmsr

Hi Soilsenasuil, Sound like you've got a Baldfaced Hornet in your garden. Do they look like this (see below)? I suggest you spray round the area with a 'natural' spray made of orange and/or tea tree oil and treat around the area the hornet is flying or where its taken up residence in the Carpenter Bee home. Have a look at this site that goes through options in more detail: Baldfaced Hornet sprays How that helps :)