On second thought I would recommend a different venue. If you want black spot resistant roses try either some of the Bucks noted for bs resistance or check out Palatine roses' website for the new disease resistant Kordes roses. If you are new to roses, I would recommend Palatine because they deliver huge bare roots that will do well in their first year. Then check out Chamblee's for Buck's - those will be one gallon potted plants and will need time to mature but how soon they mature also depends on the variety. I rooted a Folksinger cutting last winter and by the end of the growing season it was 4' tall. On the other hand, I got Quietness as a rooted seedling beforehand and it is still about 2'. I know that the mature height of Quietness is about 5'. Earth Song is said to be blackspot free, great bloomer and fragrant but I have no idea how fast it will mature - I just got it from Chamblee's. But again, to those who just start with roses I recommend to get great quality grafted plants to have satisfaction of growing roses relatively fast. You could also check out Pickering nurseries, they also list a large number of disease resistant roses. http://www.pickeringnurseries.com/ I would suggest a rose you didn't mention and that is Compassion - healthy, fragrant, good repeat and gorgeous. It is a climber but I grow it as a large shrub. Here is a link that might be useful: Palatine roses

There are several reasons I don't think it is Queen Elizabeth. One is the stems are very short on the roses. 5 inches maybe at most. Another is that the rose smells very nice with an old rose scent and has a good moderate strength. Pictures I have seen of Queen Elizabeth have no where near the number of thorns this one has. There are tiny thorns all the way up to the actual bud and no where on the cane can you ever even touch with one finger without running into thorns. There are two types of thorns on this bush. One is the regular large thorn and then all the little quarter inch thorns. Major ouchies both. Another thing about the leaves. The leaves have a definate soft grey tinge. Very elegant. Oddly I have never noticed this color before.

Parma, It was me. Here is the article: How to Pick the Best Size Chandelier for your Room By Susan Welch Heeney, ASID, Decorating Studio, LLC Whether you are selecting a chandelier or light fixture for your Dining Room or Foyer/Entry Hall, it can be confusing to decide on which size is best. Then, once you determine the correct size of light fixture, how do you determine at what height to hang it? Its really not too hard if you follow some tips that Interior Designers and Decorators use when selecting and handing chandeliers. Visual Weight of the Chandelier for a Dining Room Before following the guidelines below, keep in mind that the style and heaviness of the light fixture will affect what size you need to go with. A visually heavy chandelier can go more towards a smaller diameter. A visually light chandelier can be a little wider in diameter. ChandelierSize Over the Dining Room Table One universally correct formula for determining the correct size light fixture for the Dining Room is to go with a fixture that has a diameter that is half the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. For instance, if the Dining Room table is a rectangle of 48" wide x 72" long, a chandelier that is approximately 24" (half of the 48" width of the table) in diameter would look fabulous. If the table is a 60" round diameter, a 30" diameter chandelier would be appropriate. If you want to hang two chandeliers over an exceptionally long dinging room table (for example a table that is approximately 54" wide x 120" long), then if you select chandeliers that are 1/3 the width of the table and hang them centered on each end of the table that would be correct. Therefore each chandelier would be approximately 18" in diameter. The height of the actual chandelier should be determined on the ceiling height of the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ½"  3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8 ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate. The chandelier should be hung centered over the table (unless you are installing more than 1 fixture over the table) and the bottom of the light fixture should be about 30" above the table top. Dining Room chandeliers should always have a dimmer switch so that you can use the Dining Room for a multiple of activities from romantic dinners to a study area for the kids. Chandelier Size for a Foyer or Entry Hall When you donÂt have a table to help you determine the width of the chandelier you need for a room, you base the size on the overall room dimensions. One easy favorite that rarely fails is to add the width and length of the room together in feet and convert that figure to inches to come up with the correct width of the chandelier. For example, if an Entry Hall is only 8 x 6Â, you would add 8 + 6 together which equals 14, but instead of 14 feet, it would indicate that a 14" diameter chandelier would work best. If a room is larger, say 10 x 18Â, you would figure the diameter of the chandelier by the following formula: 10 + 18 = 28 (Therefore, a 28" diameter chandelier would fit the room proportionately.) It makes sense that the higher the ceiling the taller the chandelier should be so that it will look balanced in the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ½"  3" for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8 ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20" to 24" in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25" to 30" would look more appropriate. The chandelier in a Foyer or Entry Hall should be hung centered in the room with the bottom of the fixture no lower than 7' from the floor. 7' is the absolutel minimum to allow for head clearance. If you have a tall ceiling you should follow a rule of thumb of at least 7' 6" from the floor to the bottom of the light fixture. For more information and practical help on decorating, visit DecoratingStudio.com. All Rights Reserved, Copyright @ 2005, Decorating Studio, LLC Reprints are allowed as long as article, with by line and links to Decorating Studio at top and bottom of article are left intact.

What I first thought to be a circa 1930's sideboard is I think a 'cellaret'. The drawers are too small to take cutlery settings and the 'bins' to the sides shout champagne or wine storage, but minus the tin liners. As Lindac says, there are two design constructs going on: Victorian style draw knobs and reeded legs, but the square facets of the 'wine bins' and the top are squeaking Art Deco, With a named piece of still practical furniture to a wine buff/collector, you might get a few few hundred dollars for it. There were obviously a lot of them made as per the Chicago Co badge and also machine made dovetails. If few survived and it is a rare item it could be worth even more.