Lots of interesting comments here, but to me the salient issues are these: 1) this is a map based on statistical averages. It does not take into account the fact that every piece of ground is subject to the effect of microclimates. Elevation, latitude, topology, soil type, proximity to water, and existing vegetation - even man-made structures - all affect the POSSIBILITY of reaching the temperature parameters that define a particular zone. 2) Weather, and more importantly climate, are complex studies, and subject to variables still poorly understood. It is well known, for instance, that the earth has experienced different cycles of warmer-than-previously and cooler-than-previously, but the cause and timing of those cycles is rarely clear - the effects of a volcano, or a meteoroid hitting the earth can account for some cooler periods, but the cause of many of the cycles is still conjecture. Right now, we seem to be in a warming trend, and many climate-change deniers point to that as evidence that mankinds' influence on the atmosphere has no bearing on the global warming issue - the debate rages on. For the most part, the natural cyclical changes, and to a lesser degree, I believe, global warming, are incremental, they happen over relatively long periods of time, and will not soon affect the likelihood of anyone successfully growing more tender crops on a regular basis. 3) As zeedman points out, and some orchardists clearly grasp, this is a map of winter low temperatures; as such it is most useful in predicting the odds of perennial plant survival, and is of less utility to those who are planning their annual garden. First and last frost dates, precipitation, and wind maps are equally important when a gardener is trying to integrate climate statistics into a coherent garden plan. The gardening activities most immediately concerned with this map are structural ones concerning perennial crop placement, hardscaping, and mulching, and very little to do with the choice of which variety of annual to choose. 4) The best guide to hardiness is the native ecosystem in your specific locale. Being familiar with the native plants, watching for bud formation on local trees, new green growth in the woods, even the activities of wild animals and birds, is often a far more reliable indicator of current weather trends than human predictions based on statistical charts. As mentioned above, these are guidelines, useful for planning purposes, but no guarantee of future performance.

Just a quick note that my seeds have sprouted outside with partial shade. I am so excited! I was running out of sunny areas in the house so gave it a whirl in the 100+ degree heat here. I was too scared not to have some shade, though, and they did come up! They're just starting to come up, so I can't say how many I'll get compared to indoors yet. From what I understand, zones 7 and 8 or higher have no problem growing summer crops in the fall so I also am trying tomatoes. Not a single one has come up yet, but they also hate this high heat. I have some seedlings indoors to transplant if these do not come up. I've had the other tomatoes outside for over a week now, though, and nothing from the outside ones... ugggh ~Angela

I haven't done anything yet (other than prep containers). I have a few seeds, but I thought it was a little early in the DFW area (I thought end of Jan and Feb). I guess I should get going. Have had some warm days recently.

I think I may have commented on the last thread you posted, but will give another try with this one. Brugs can be hardy under conditions that you describe (much the same as I have here in North Texas), but not if you let the entire plant freeze. Case in point...... we had an early freeze last year (October, to be exact) and I had not moved any of my container brugs inside nor cut back the inground ones. Some of the container ones did not survive this early freeze and the cuttings from the inground ones did not root as well as they have in the past. All of this to advise you to cut it back...........it will still give you lots of blooms as they bloom best when the weather cools off in the fall, but if you want early blooms, then I would advise a container brug.