"It knocked off on me last weekend."
Could you elaborate what you mean by "knocked off"?

Try priming the carb with a couple teaspoons worth of gas and see if it fires. If so, the carb is probably clogged up and needs to be cleaned.

Does it have compression? If not, you may have a stuck valve.

Post the code# of the engine. There are 4 different IPL's for a 190700 series.

Make that -
Post TYPE# of engine. (code may be useful too, for dating the engine)

Bill,

Thanks for the reply. I had been using it for about a half hour and it just shut down. It did make a funny sound like air coming out of a hose. Oil level was OK. I tried the gas in the carb trick but it wouldn't do anything. Is there anyway to test the compression without some kind of meter? I can turn the flywheel, but it doesn't turn freely, meaning there is some resistance.

When I try to start it, the flywheel spins but there's no sputter or anything that would soun like it's trying to turn over.

I'll post up the Type # when I get home this afternoon and look at it.

Thanks,
Ross

A rudimentary compression test would involve removing the spark plug and holding your thumb firmly over the hole while cranking. The compression pressure should overcome thumb pressure.
Not real scientific, but it'll tell you if you have a "gross defect" such as a broken piston or a valve stuck open.

Your Snapper rider is one of the few long-lasting lawn mowing devices out there, so why not buy a new engine for it, and stay ahead of the game.
If the engine on it is the original one, I'd think you are ready for a re-power job.
Trouble with buying a used engine is the fact that you are at the mercy of the seller, and, if you don't know him very well, yes, ya might get taken.
I have one with the smaller deck, 8 hp, used engine, and it runs great. I also have one with the 33 inch deck, grass bagger, etc., and i'm repowering it as we speak
(or type).
Buy what is called a "Short block" and transfer the parts you need to make it run. A few hundred bucks for a new engine will make it run great, down time will be short, and it should, with reasonable care, last a long time.
My larger one, the engine finally said:"Thats enough" and gave out. So, the repower job.

Thanks Rusty. I'm leaning that way - buying a new engine. My concern is that I go out and spend 3 or 4 hundred on an engine, then have the rear end stuff go bad, plus I'd kind of rather have the hi-vac deck. That's why I was considering a used engine to get it running so I'd have time to look at other options. Most of the new engines I see are 10.5 to 14 HP, is it hard to install those? I've read that the behind the seat gas tank may not work with some and that I'd probably have to order a different muffler from Snapper. I'd like to find the same engine I have, just new - I'd feel a lot more confident about installing it myself.

Thx,
Ross

Not sure if you've seen this link, but you may want to look if you haven't.
Let's see if we can get the old engine working first though-

Here is a link that might be useful: Link

"Trouble with buying a used engine is the fact that you are at the mercy of the seller, and, if you don't know him very well, yes, ya might get taken."

I tell buyers that my engines are covered all the way, all the way to the end of my driveway. Bring friend/expert, check engine out all you want, I always have them on a test stand where they can be started and run, but like any used item, when you buy it, it's yours. Actually, I have been trading in used engines and mowers for many, many years and have had exceptionally good luck. (knock, knock)I would expect to make it right on engines I rebuilt IF a problem cropped up that was clearly my fault.

"Most of the new engines I see are 10.5 to 14 HP, is it hard to install those? "

No. IF your mower is old enough that it has little flare "fender" type extensions on the top of the side plates, sticking up above the frame bed, you will have to trim the left one off or enlarge a hole in the center of the left one to accommodate the additional bolt in the back, sump, of the newer, larger, engines. Electric start will need a little paying attention to.

"I've read that the behind the seat gas tank may not work with some and that I'd probably have to order a different muffler from Snapper."

You are not likely to have any problem with the gas tank. A regular Snapper muffler is best but you CAN use other types with some adaptation. Do not use the 8hp muffler on a larger engine.

Walt Conner

Guys - thanks for all the good adice. It's a model # 30083S snapper. The engine is a model 190707, TYPR 1190-01, CODE 81110209. Been told the first to digits of the code are the year made. I tried Bill's "thumb in the spark plug hole" compression test, and got nothing. No pressure on my thumb, no air hissing out. If it's been running since 1981, it's been a good one but trying to save it might not be worth the effort/expense. I'm leaning toward getting a new one, especially if I can find another 8 hp in someone's stock. I may look around for a used one, but I know how that goes - you get it like you got your wife - for better or worse.

Walt - I know chances are slim, but if you're anywhere near Va Beach, I'll stop by. Oh, yeah it does have those flared side plates, so I'd have to do what you said.

Other than that, anyone know where where I can find a new 8 hp briggs?

Thanks again,
Ross

"anyone know where where I can find a new 8 hp briggs?"

The 8 hp like you have has been out of production for many years.

"No pressure on my thumb, no air hissing out. "
"trying to save it might not be worth the effort/expense."

There are a couple of things you can try since you have nothing to lose. Take the head off and see just what is going on. PERHAPS a valve is stuck open, perhaps a valve seat has hopped out, You may be able to fix these. Perhaps it has thrown a rod - forget it, especially since this is likely to be an aluminum bore, "Kool Bore" engine.

Walt Conner

Agree with Walt. Sounds like stuck valve. You'll have to pull off head and carb to get at the valves. Even after you free up valve, you need to check valve clearances. Whether the valve stretches or the seat sinks, B&S engines of 1960's thru 1980's vintage tend to gradually loose intake valve clearance, making them harder and harder to start, eventually to point of not running. However, do not exceed recommended clearance or you will work your stater to death by defeating the compression release.

Since your motor is 1981 vintage, it come from factory with points and condenser. Even if you have spark, once you fix other problems, you may want to consider conversion to electronic ignition. Costs about $35 for new coil or $15 for retro kit. Once done, ignition is virtually bullet proof.

It actually does have the electric start, but batteries don't last long at all. How to I get the head off? I don't have a puller for the flywheel - anyway to get that off without one?

Thx,
Ross

Go to the dealer and have him order you a flywheel puller for that engine. Cheap!

But you dont need it to take the cylinder head off.

You said you heard air like a hose leak when it died, maybe the head came loose - or cracked.

Too bad you dont live nearby, I have that engine in a 1985 model. Was working just fine 8 years ago when I took it off a RER - been sitting in the garage in a plastic garbage bag. Replaced it with a used 14.5 briggs.

Do you need to pull the flywheel to get the head off?

Cylinder head is on the side of the engine - it covers the cylinder hole. You know that hole, where the piston goes up and down in.

The flywheel is on the top of the motor - attached to the crankshaft. It covers the magneto/coil, points & condensor, and the charging windings. Pain in the neck to remove that flywheel without a puller. Factory pullers are simple & cheap.

Ok - out of curiosity I just took the head off. The bottom valve is stuck open. Couldn't budge it though. So now what do I do? Now I'm curious........

Thx,
Ross

Not so fast on drawing a conclusion on that valve! Have you turned the crankshaft and watched the valves since you removed the head? If not then you need to do that. When you rotate the engine with the head removed you should observe BOTH valves opening and closing alternately IF they are free. If this valve remains open while the other valve opens AND closes when you rotate the engine, then it is indeed stuck open. You might have just "caught" the valve in the open position and not realize that. Turn the engine and watch the valves.

Since you had ZERO compression, I'd say it's safe to assume the valve is stuck open.
Get a GOOD quality penetrating oil and spray it into the valve stem area and let it soak. Apply liberally! IF you can elevate that end of the engine, so much the better to allow the solvent to run down the stem toward the valve guide.
Before doing this, rotate the crank so that the piston is "flush" with the top of the cylinder and the other (intake) valve is closed.
Reapply the oil a couple more times at approx 1 hour intervals. The valve MIGHT even pop down on its own. IF NOT,
LIGHTLY tap the valve down with the wood handle of a hammer or similar.
Rotate the engine a few times and reapply the solvent to the stem to "wash out" the varnish/gum on the stem. Repeat a couple times. You might even want to squirt the other valve stem at this time too.
When you get the valve functioning properly, reinstall the head (I recommend a new gasket) and change the oil with a DETERGENT oil.
A couple oz. of an engine oil additive might make sense also. Get one that "quiets noisy lifters" type. That's basically just another solvent. Your oil may get "prematurely dirty" from the solvent action removing gunk etc., so you may want to do another oil change after a couple hours run time.

HINT-
When I shut off a single cylinder engine for storage, I pull the rope until the compression cycle starts (resistance). This insures that both valves are closed and can't get stuck open.

Thanks Bill, I'll give that a shot tonight.

Ross

Guys,

I turned the crank and the valves did open and shut. After turning it a few times I noticed that the piston wasn't moving much. Kept turning it but it never would come out to where it was flush with the end of the cylinder.

Thx,
Ross

OK, it has been determined that no valves are stuck. Do this now. Turn the crank and watch the piston as it moves in the cylinder. When the piston is moving DOWNWARD (away from the top of cylinder), stop turning the crank. With a wood or other non-metal object (hammer HANDLE is good) try to push the piston down into the cylinder. If the piston moves further (deeper) into the cylinder, the connecting rod has either broken or is loose on the crank journal. Either case probably means this engine is ready for the scrap heap. If the above test shows little or no additional movement of piston, the rod and crank are likely OK. If that is the case, measure how much the piston moves in the cylinder from top of travel to bottom of travel (tape measure is OK for this) and post the measurement.

OK - tried pushing the cylinder in and it went in a good inch and a half. Tried turning the crank after that and now it won't budge going clockwise. Does that sound like the connecting rod is broken?

That exactly describes what a LOOSE connecting rod acts like. I expected that if you forced the piston further than the crankshaft could pull it down, the crank might "lock up" afterward. At this point you could remove the engine from the mower and take the cover off the PTO end (opposite end from flywheel) of engine to confirm this visually (drain oil first). Or you could proceed with plans to acquire a replacement engine.

Mownie - thanks for the help. I had pretty much planned on getting a replacement engine, just wanted to see if there was anything I could do to get the old one running again. I may take the cover off the PTO end and take a look, after I get this one off to put the new one on.

Thanks all for the help.

Ross

Maybe all you need is a new piston,rings and rod.

I have a dilemma .I have a33" snapper . the Handle that raise and lower the blade broke off I can't get the lower part that is on the shaft to replace the leaver to raise & lower the deck The handle is on the right side of deck Can any body help me?

Look for a lawn mower "bone yard" in your area or a small shop that repairs - resells riding mowers.

Walt Conner