I agree about the soil, but I didn't know better when I bought it and everything was perfect until now. The two major things that happened right before this happened is I used the organic plant food concentrate and the soil dried out. I usually water in the morning but didn't get to watering until around noon. The leaves looked wilted when I went to water. Is it possible that the plant food or drying out would cause such quick damage? One of the tomatoes I pulled earlier today was definitely suffering from blossom end rot. The second one didn't look the same. The first one had that darkening flat area at the blossom end, but the second one had a dark ope,n sunken area in the middle of the fruit. Can that be a sign of blossom end rot as well? Could Fusarium crown and root rot or even fusarim wilt be the cause? Ive been doing so much reading and still can't figure out what went wrong and why. In any case, what can I do to improve this situation? Upon examining the tomatoes, I noticed several have the little dark spots towards the bottom. Is it hopeless for them? They only have one or a few dark little spots. Will the spots keep growing in size or is there a way I can stop it before it destroys the tomato? Also, the newer tomatoes don't have any spots and look good so far. Should I buy some kind of lime to increase the calcium? Upon further examination of the plants, I also noticed small dark spots on some leaves. *sigh* --Maggie

Mike, good idea to post symptoms here, but since it is a citrus forum, I should point out that in many cases, the symptoms you've listed don't occur on citrus, and that the actual symptoms on citrus are quite different from those listed. For example: Calcium -- seldom visible symptoms on citrus Magnesium -- never symptoms on new growth of citrus; old growth shows a characteristic "inverted V" of green at the base of the leaf and yellow-orange above. Phosphorus -- I've never seen a citrus tree exhibit the purpling of leaves; rather, reduced fruit size and yield is most common. Boron -- in citrus, shows up as dead, sunken, gray or brown areas in the albedo (white part) of the fruit peel. Usually no other symptoms. Copper -- Growth may be unusually vigorous, producing huge, deep blue-green leaves, but the stems are too weak to support the weight, so they bow unusually, giving what is known as an "S" shape to the limb. Also, such limbs develop blisters on the epidermis which swell, then burst open, and ooze a sticky sap. Then in areas of the world that have fire ants (e.g., Florida), the ants are attracted to the sap, and they chew away the epidermis, killing the twigs entirely. Manganese -- at least in Florida, even a fairly severe deficiency generally has no effect on yield. Molybdenum -- older leaves are green with large (up to 1/4") yellow spots, like large freckles.

Re-post the info. from the other thread: The problem with lime? Its high pH kills the soil bacteria that fixes nitrogen, so lime UNDO the effect of nitrogen-fertilizer like alfalfa. I put lime in Pink Peace's planting hole, since the soil was previously occupied by a large bush, plus I wanted to tone-down its gaudy color. The result? Calcium & other nutrients deficiency in young leaves, along with less petals and flowers that don't last long. Calcium could not be released since the pH is too high in the planting hole. Will have to dig Pink Peace AGAIN after its 3rd flush. Grafted Pink Peace gives me hell, compared to much-cleaner-own-root. I dug it up 4th of July since it black spotted on me, fixed the hole with compost & lime, it became pale & less petals after that. It's really hard to achieve balance of nutrients, so I'm better off using slow-released balanced stuff: red-lava-rock & pea gravel, compost, alfalfa hay. My GRAFTED Pink-Peace black spots be it wet or dry. Above pic, it's a calcium deficiency, since the young leaves are, "New leaves (top of plant) are distorted or irregularly shaped. Causes blossom-end rot." see link below: http://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1106.pdf I get tons of blossom-end-rot on my cherry-tomato: the one I forgot to put gypsum in the planting hole. Gypsum is questionable on top, but great in the planting hole, since it's evenly distributed, rather than gunking on top to burn roots. Below is a good chart:

These cuttings are growing next to a south-facing window at roughly room temperature. Early on, however -- maybe for the first week -- I did not place them in direct sunlight, since I did not want them to wilt for lack of roots. The soil is light with sufficient drainage. To note, the plants are now well rooted; I can see the roots through the sides of their transparent containers. At the same time, the yellowing seems to have ceased to spread for the most part, so perhaps this means it initially resulted from a nutrient deficiency. However, I still wonder whether the lack of nutrients directly caused chlorosis, or whether the deficiency made the plants more susceptible to a disease which in turn brought about the yellowing. Diane, thank you for enlightening me on the nomenclature.