I took the leap of faith today and pulled it out of the container. It looks like it was very root bound and therefore nutrient uptake was limited. I had no choice but to gently loosen up the roots and re-pot in a 2 gallon. I am in Canada in the middle of winter but I think my plant thinks it is spring based on the artificial light and flowering. Hopefully it doesn't stress it out and cause flower/leaf drop. I trimmed off maybe 10 leaves off. Do you guys think its a good idea to take more off? I will just water with the water + vinegar for the next month or so. Then I will switch to Miracle-Gro All Purpose 24-8-16 + vinegar which is closer to what you guys recommend. Thanks all!

You are likely overwatering and stop the misting. Define, "once the soil has dried". Does that mean the top, down 4 inches, down to the bottom and when you water how are you watering? My dracs can go two or three weeks or more without watering. tj

The rest of the plant actually look really healthy except for the few yellowing leaves and stems. You’re not really going to know the full extent until you can view the roots but are you noticing more and more stems become mushy as time goes on or is it just this 1-2 and nothing before/since? I think if its a recurring issue your best bet is to have a peep at the roots, if there’s any mushy or brown roots, cut them off and repot in a different medium, add some perlite to help with drainage and aerate the soil. If the roots are coming out of the bottom too it sounds like it needs a larger pot to stretch its legs, I know you don’t have access right now so if you’re confident you can always prune the roots and place back in the same pot but otherwise a larger pot will really benefit the plant. Hope this helps :) Chloé

I am hesitant to re-pot the arthurium right now because it is blooming .... or should I? There is a difference between repotting and potting up. Repotting includes bare-rooting and root pruning, where potting up is only a half-measure - bumping the plant up a pot size and filling in around the edges with a bit of fresh grow medium. Assuming you live in the northern hemisphere, it's better to repot Anthurium in June, around Father's Day or the Summer Solstice. That timing ensures the quickest recovery from the stress of repotting. As a temporary measure, if the roots are tight in the pot, it would be good to pot up to a slightly larger pot now, then plan for a repot in mid-June. You can pot-up even if the plant is in bloom if you don't disturb the roots. There seems to be possibly white mold in the soil, also in the soil of some of our Christmas cacti. I can see little white spots, and there is a smell to the soil. I also just noticed what looks like powdery mildew on the tips of the rosemary plant. Was thinking of giving all the effected pots a hydrogen peroxide bath and spray? Is it mold or dissolved solids (salts) left behind from water that has evaporated from the surface of the grow medium. Mold (fungus) is not necessarily a bad thing. Plants live in harmony with thousands of different fungi, and even form a symbiotic relationship with some of them. If you detect a rotten egg smell (hydrogen sulfide), it's likely the grow medium is saturated, at least the medium in the lower part of the pot. That's not a good thing. Be careful with hydrogen peroxide. It contains an O- oxygen free radical that will oxidize the first organic molecule the free atom contacts. It's better to treat a mold/fungal issue with a fungicide, or breaking the disease tetrahedron by changing the environment; i.e., allowing the soil to dry down between waterings, and perhaps taking steps to limit how much excess water the medium CAN hold at watering time. In order for a pathogen to become a problem, it needs all 4 sides of the tetrahedron at the same time. Plant pathologists often describe the disease process using a 4-sided figure called the disease tetrahedron (think “pyramid – 3 sides + the bottom). Each side of the tetrahedron represents an essential part of the infection process. There must be a virulent pathogen (capable of infecting the plant) that is genetically capable of recognizing its host. Either the environment must be conducive to the development of the pathogen, or the pathogen must be able to stress/weaken the plant. The 4th requirement is the time required for diseases to develop and spread. Whenever conditions are such that any one (or more) of the 4 requirements is missing from the equation, there is no immediate threat. Since the best medicines are prophylactic, the grower who makes sure plants are healthy and not stressed is ahead of the game. Biotic diseases are better able to overcome the natural defenses of plants weakened by stress that occurs when the plant is forced to deal with cultural conditions near or beyond the limits the plant is genetically programmed to deal with. Circling back to the disease tetrahedron, we can see a wet grow medium that contains the virulent inoculum provides 2 of the 4 essential sides needed for a disease to develop – environment and inoculum. Time, the third essential side will not likely be on the side of the grower in the case of a too wet medium, so you can't use that to your advantage. We know there will be potential hosts, but not whether or not the hosts will be susceptible to the pathogen, or weak enough for the pathogen to infect the host. It ,akes the most sense to change the environment (as already mentioned, to break the disease cycle ...... if indeed there is a fungal or bacterial pathogen in play. Perhaps some clear images would be helpful ..... The plant did fine with the city water for over two years. But since beginning December we are on well water. We may have to hook up to a water softener which will bring along its own issues. Have not crossed that bridge yet ... If you are comfortable spending a couple of hundred dollars for a small reverse osmosis system, it would be an excellent idea - especially if you don't like the taste/smell of the well water. I run city water through my small system and it provides me with all the water I need for drinking and watering plants. You could tap into your supply plumbing anywhere upstream from the softener. It only took me about a half hour to install mine. Filters last more than a year and aren't expensive. My son and I just installed a customized system in his home and it made water that was previously repulsive (taste and smell) completely free of odor or tastes. Al