Hi, just have to tell you 'you're alright!' And you're all right, too--there is not a bit of incorrect info posted here for these belts. The Drive-Hydro OEM Belt is a #1721696 and is in fact 92.5". The OEM belt also looks a bit different than a standard "A" or "4L" belt. It is more rounded on the outside, larger side of the "V", probably to ride better and cause less wear on the tensioner pulley it contacts. Very glad I bought the OEM as many recommended. As for the arbor and deck belts, it looks like the standard "A" belts will fit just fineand would probably be OK for a while, but I did not have the correct sizes in surplus. Then I called a local supply house and told the counter guy I needed belts for my lawn tractor. He said their belts might stretch, that's what just happened with his MTD. So maybe the OEM's would again be the better option than even a decent, name brand non-OEM. Have to save my pennies again it looks like. Thanks for all the advice, will still tell you how things change out, and if there is a trick to it that makes it easier.

Thank you Bill. Sorry I have been gone for so long, my daughter has just gotten out of the hospital. It runs beautifully for the first minute- After that it shuts off. Then, when restarted it will run for even less time- about 10-15 seconds. Briggs engine. 15 horse

The good news is that my mechanic neighbour took another look and concluded that although the wiring description that came with the new engine and that I wrote down above, didn't work and produced the 17 volts, connecting the orange to orange should, but not just because of the colours. Lo and behold the meter went to about 14.3 volts (in the green on the meter) and stayed there. I went out and cut for an hour and so far so good. I checked again with the meter and it was staying at 14.3. Go figure. I hope the problem doesn't repeat after some more hours but I'll keep a close eye on it. I'm also going to see if I can get a volt meter for the tractor. I'm still concerned that if the problem reoccurs as it did after 5 hours on the first replacement regulator that it may yet again so I'm going to keep all of your comments for future reference and perhaps I should also have a good technician make the checks you suggested. Mownie ... If you send me your email address to Canadave@ripnet.com I'll call Briggs and ask them to send you the electric schematics. I'll also have them CC them to justalurker and ericwi if you two are interested and send me your email addresses. In the meantime I can't say enough about how helpful you guys have been and thank you profusely (if that's the right word). How about discaboobishly? I can't say enough about this site and not just because of your help on this issue. This site made the recommendation to buy a Simplicity based on my requirements of cutting about 5 acres. At the time I was a city boy who had retired to paradise on a 6.5 acre waterfront property in cottage country NE of Kingston Ontario from the corporate life in Toronto and I knew squat about boonies stuff like garden tractors. I believe that God invented the Yellow Pages for guys like me. They made the right suggestion and have been very pleased with my Simplicity Conquest. I can't complain about this problem because poop can happen on a 10 year old tractor. I have always tried my best to take good care of it in fact a handy man was over recently to do some work on my interlocking brick lower deck and congratulated me on getting a new tractor. While I was getting the second regulator installed by a local guy who works on cars and garden tractors, a guy drove up and without knowing the story stated that it was a shame that I was having a problem with a new tractor. I try hard to convince myself that if I can keep my tractor immaculately clean then I must also be a mechanical genius. A recommendation from this site to contact Small Engine Warehouse for a good price on a replacement Vanguard engine when the mice ate the original one saved me $670 dollars which can easily buy several gallons of booze and about 800 crack whores but my wife would only let me use it buy new underwear and take her out for dinner.

hi bill, i'll write this with caution. i put in a new coil magmeto, whatever it is called that sits on top of the flywheel. it was really delaminated as well as filthy with dust on the bottom in the air gap. dirty contacts. just all round filthy. i cut for about 1 hour with out any trouble. but like i said it lost power on hot 85-90 degree dayswhere now it's 68. think 25-30 air temp as any thing to do with hot valves or motor? the valve info you gave is what concerns me. i don't have a compression tester, but our mechanic would probably loan me one if it's a tool i can't destroy if i don't use it right. the spark plug quality you mentioned, would i need that in line tester, i saw one the other day that goes, it think , between plug boot and coil. i saw something like that hooked up at a shop i was at for my lawnboy. i think that's a tool i'd buy. i think the compression tester was 80 bucks. i could be wrong on that. i have 3 lawnboys and 2 of them always have ignition trouble. sure seems like a better way to test for spark than shutting off all the lights in the garage and having my wife yank on the rope 12-15 times. anyway hope this is some light at the tunnel. i saw my plow in the shed today and thought what's worse? cutting on foot in hot summer or shoveling a whole lot of snow in the cold. our road could barely fit a truck plow. nah, the snow would be much worse. hope things are back to normal. either way i'll not give up. thanks for all your help. i do have a tester and your instructions but i'm afraid the bad mojo of moving forward. i'll give it 1 day! and move on. thanks again, pete