Check and sand/clean where the battery ground (-) cable bolts to the frame, or where-ever. Bet you'll find rust there! Then unbolt and sand/clean where the starter solenoid bolts to the frame, and where the cable/s attach to it. Check the battery cables for rust that might have formed inside the covering! Remove the starter, and have it checked by a battery/ alternator/ starter repair shop. Also, did you put the battery in backwards? By that, i mean is it hooked up correctly? + to solenoid and - to ground. Try a battery cable hookup from your battery directly to the positive connection bolt on the starter. If it cranks correctly, the trouble is in the stuff i mentioned above! Rusty Jones, the Mower Man

thanks, Good suggestions, I checked with sears and compare them to the Craftsman and poulan ones and new they seem to cost 1700 and up, but the snowblowers seem to be about the same. Say 3400$ plus tax new for both. Does this make sense. He's paying 1700 for both no tax. Is that too much? is the machine any good to start with? Thanks again, with I new more about it but I havn't seen it.

Better to tap it with a wooden or plastic screwdriver handle if you hit it with anything. If you tap it lightly while the starter is engaged (but has not spun yet) and the starter "comes to life", you probably have a "sticking starter", and/or a low voltage/voltage drop condition with the machine. If the light tap gets it going and it starts OK after that (without having to tap it again), good for you, you might make it through the whole season. If it has to be tapped every time you try to start it, you need to check every connecting point in the circuit from battery to solenoid to starter for corrosion and/or loose nuts/bolts. Check the ground attaching points from the engine to chassis and chassis to battery (on most L&G tractors the ground runs from engine directly to battery negative post). If you confirm good connections everywhere and it still wants a "love tap" as foreplay to starting, either your battery is too weak to "kick" the starter or your starter is sticking internally (bushings, commutator & brushes or all 3) and will need to be serviced to eliminate the sticking. Don't ever "clobber" a starter with a hammer or similar object, especially if you are angry at it. Your payback, if you do, will be to purchase a new starter.

Popcorn: No Picasso here Bro lol ! My point was the Creative Editing is not req'd. You call it tomatoe I call it tomotoe . The Jest of my Post was to IDENTIFY SAFETY as PARAMOUNT IMPORTANCE to the Manual Shut off Valve Requirement from Mownies Original Advice. Not for Internal Engine Damage Protection due to compromised oil integrity from gas contamination . Although very important point for Engine Integrity , it is secondary to Fire Damage and Personal Injury or loss of life in a House Fire Situation. Did not wish to get in a debate over semantics . Mownie is correct there is a definite diference within Normal Fuel Inlet Needle Valve and more Precise Fuel Inlet Metering Valves . I have work on both types . Mostly Walbro WB & WG Series Carbs on Chainsaws Pioneer , Solo , Jonsered referred to as Metering Needle Valves . Also Keihein NG Tiltison HD Series within various Snowmobile's Snow-Jet & Arctic Cat & Polaris were again the Needle Valves are referred to Metering Needle Valves . Both examples are Atmospheric & Density (sensitive) controlled units . However the secondary examples within snowmobiles are 2-stage Inlet Needles with primary and secondary fuel circuits. Much more precise fuel delivery back in the 70's . Sorry probably a little too much info. Mownie is a Smart Dude just gets a little carried away with the Editor and Chief Title . Neither form of Fuel Inlet Control Valve Application would have Confused or Negated the Point that I was making "Safety" over Engine Maintenance. Anyhow I hope the OP gets his tractor running and installs the Manual Fuel Shutoff to protect his Investments as a Homeowner !