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red bumps on maple tree leaves need help

Granite City Services

13 years ago

had this on another tree last year anbd tree died.

Need advice on whatm options I have if any.

thx in advance for any help.

{{gwi:360108}}

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Comments (21)

PRO
Granite City Services
Original Author
13 years ago
See pic. this killed a nice maple last year. Nwws advice
on what to do. Thx in advance for any help.

{{gwi:360108}}
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
mites

see link

ENTIRELY COSMETIC ....

they did not kill the other tree

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link
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Pinky red bumps on pear leaves?
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Yes, Pear Leaf Blister Mite. Especially this time of year. The pink turns to brown later. I got rid of them on one of my trees by completely defoliating it in late summer. Not exactly helpfult to the tree but all of the mites will be gone. They all reside in the leaves and only retreat to the buds in Fall before the leaves fall off. Take away the leaves and it's "buh-bye" to the mites.
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red maple planted last fall, no leaves yet..... help!!!!
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Red maple is considered to be fairly tolerant of soil conditions, moisture levels in the soil and of the winter lows we get in southern Canada - so it's not likely to be anyt of those things that have harmed or killed your tree. What is the nature of the wound? Does it circle the trunk, or is it a vertical split? Circling the trunk is probably critter damage, and if half the cicumference of the trunk or more is damaged the tree may have difficulty recovering, and might be killed. A vertical split that occured over the winter is probably frost cracking or sunscald. Young maples are particularly susceptable to sunscald. Sunscald is basically a bark injury and the tree will usually quickly recover. Frost cracking is caused by rapid fluctuations in temperature allowing water in the tree to freeze and split the tree - frost cracking can be quite deep. Fertilizing the tree in the late summer or early fall, before the leaves drop, can make frost cracking more likely. Your tree might be dead or it might be just injured. Look at the buds - they were set last year - are they swelling at all? They should be if they are getting any sap from the tree. If they are the same size they were last fall, then that's not a good sign. If they are swelling then the tree is just being slow - it might have lost its first set of buds if it started to leaf out early and then had them killed by a freeze. If that's the case the tree is generally capeable of producing a second set of buds and leaves, but it is hard on the tree, and it takes time. Measure the buds now. Check in a week and compare them to your measurements to see if they're swellling. Give it another month and if there is no sign of the tree returning to life then it it probaby a goner. There is some controversy about treating wounds with dressings of any kind. Several recent studies show they have little or no effect, and recommend the tree be left to heal on its own (particularly if it is a rapidly growing young tree). Previously it was held that the wound was a potential entry point for insects or diseases, there is some belief now that many wound dressings encourage them. Unless you had a known infestation of any kind, it'd be best to let the tree heal itself when possible. Another thing to consider in the possible causes of your tree dying or doing poorly, is how did you plant it? When you dug the hole for the tree, did you add anything (compost, black earth, etc...)into that original soil you replaced when you filled in the hole? That's a very common mistake, and is one of the leading causes of death of young trees. The hole should have been filled only with the soil you took out, and no amendments added. Also, September is getting late to be planting trees. The tree will be starting to go dormant and the disruption from the planting will have encouraged some new growth at a very bad time, especially if you fertilized it when you planted it. Good luck - I hope your tree makes it, but it doesn't sound good. BP
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So Dave is that tree still dead?.
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Don't know how, or where, you're watering, but the tree isn't getting enough of it. Need to get water into the original rootzone. To do so, you can build a 2-inch tall dike at the edge of the rootball, then fill the basin once or twice every day. Hope you also pre-soaked the planting hole before setting th tree in place. And I hope you also made certain the rootball was completely moist at planting time. If not, keep that in mind for the next tree you put in.
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famartin
13 years ago
Here's some advice: Learn to type ;)
brandon7 TN_zone7
13 years ago
Oldryder,

Just ignore famartin. He's just having a bad day.
brandon7 TN_zone7
13 years ago
How funny; I googled "famartin1@yahoo.com", just to see what came up, and the very first Google result was a letter he wrote that was just full of typos. I picked another, and again, typos galore.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
anyone want to actually confirm the diagnosis and conclusion... ????

ken
brandon7 TN_zone7
13 years ago
Ken,

You provided your own backup with your link. If anyone had any questions, they could google 'maple bladder gall mite' and find more detail. If you want a second though, I'll second.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
i wasnt sure that mites and galls were specifically the same thing ... or that other things could be entirely ruled out ...

i mean really.. there is a limit to doing free research for unknown peeps ...

i just wanted to make sure i hit the nail on the head ...

ken
brandon7 TN_zone7
13 years ago
The mites (Vasates quadripedes) cause the galls (maple bladder galls). You drove the nail all the way in, possibly without even aiming? LOL
famartin
13 years ago
Sure its not you who had the bad day, Brandon? :-P
famartin
13 years ago
Actually, I must now thank you Brandon... you're comment about googleing my e-mail address gave me valuable insight into an unrelated matter.
brandon7 TN_zone7
13 years ago
Nope, the day was going just wonderfully until I read your uncalled for and rude comment to Oldryder. We don't need those kinds of comments on here.
famartin
12 years ago
Rude, maybe. Uncalled for, I think not.
Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
12 years ago
I think it was uncalled for. Surely there is a GrammarWeb somewhere that needs such awesome help.

Dan
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
I one hundred percent, wholeheartedly agree with Brandon and Dan. Your comment, famartin, was judgmental, uncalled for, and just plain mean spirited.

I sure as heck hope that those days when my dyslexia kicks in or when my brilliant Korean neighbor decides to join Gardenweb or when my elderly mother logs in for the first time that you or your ilk aren't standing at the ready with a red pen.

I'm ashamed of you.
PRO
Granite City Services
Original Author
12 years ago
guys;

thx for info and support re: critical comments on typo's. I see the same thing often on political blogs where people with nothing intelligent to add will focus their critical commentary on a meaningless typing error just so they can join the discussion.

I'll oil my maples next year same time I do the fruit trees and hopefully reduce or eradicate the mites.

thx again for help.
famartin
12 years ago
You guys are a bunch of whiny babies. Does no one see that the ;) indicated my comment was meant in jest? God forbid someone have a little fun on the forum.
whaas_5a
12 years ago
Every freeman maple I've owned had galls...they always seem to do well even with the cosmetic issue. I don't think you need to do anything to tell you the truth.
brandon7 TN_zone7
12 years ago
"Does no one see that the ;) indicated my comment was meant in jest?"

If ";)" means you are just kidding, how do we tell when you are just trying to CYA? ;)
Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
12 years ago
Motion to adjourn this cratering thread. All in favor?

Dan
rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
I second the motion...and my vote is AYE (as in aye yi yi).

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