Hi, Sarah - don't worry about 'fitting in'. Everyone is always anxious to help a fellow grower who's in need. A couple of things I noticed, one of which isn't too important, but the other is, is that lifting your pots can be an extremely effective way to gauge the moisture content of the soil. The soils I use are so porous that it's very difficult to over-water, yet I have at least a dozen plants I check regularly by lifting them to see how heavy the planting is, which instantly tells me if they need water. That technique works best for smaller plants in light pots. The second issue that I think warrants additional discussion is whether or not the effluent (water that has exited the drain hole) needs to be removed from the collection saucer. You can decide, but I left this, which directly addresses that issue, on another thread yesterday: The reason we are wisely instructed to flush the soil when we water so a significant fraction of the total volume of water applied when we irrigate exits the drain hole are two. One is to help ensure the entire soil volume is moistened, but equally or even more important is the fact that this practice purges the soil of accumulating solubles (salts) that make water/nutrient absorption increasingly difficult as the TDS/EC levels (salt levels) become more concentrated. At best, too high concentrations of solubles in the soil solution spoil the appearance of foliage, usually first becoming manifest in burned root tips and leaf tips/margins, at worst in the collapse of the plant. We need to note though, that the soil the plant is in needs to be able to support this type of watering w/o the grower having to be concerned about extended periods of impaired root function due to soggy conditions, or worse, root rot getting a hold because of the same concern. Isotonicity is the process by which the level of dissolved solids in the effluent in a collection saucer will quickly balance or equalize itself to/with the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution. When there is a 'connection' between the effluent in the collection saucer and the water in the soil that results from a wick dangling in the effluent or the fact that a part of the soil is in contact with the effluent, all the solubles in the collection saucer will find their way back into the soil solution until the level of solubles in the effluent is equal to the level of solubles in the soil solution. If you take a new sponge that is saturated with fresh water and stand it on end in 1/2" of salted water or fertilizer solution, using an inexpensive moisture meter you can measure the increase in electrical conductivity at the top of the sponge within a very short time - seconds - a clear indication of isotonicity at work, of the fact that salts in the effluent will quickly reach a balance with the salts in the soil solution. So, not removing the water from the collection saucer ensures all the salts flushed from the soil can make their way back into the soil unless the connection between the soil and the effluent is broken. Best would be to water over a sink if plants are small enough & return the plant to the collection saucer after the pot has stopped draining, or for larger plants to set the pot up on 'feet' or blocks that are inside the saucer, the object of which is to effectively lift the soil above the effluent in the saucer, high enough to ensure the connection between the effluent and soil or any wick you might be using is broken. I hope that was helpful. Welcome to the forum - have fun! Al

I have PLENTY of space now that I have discovered winter sowing! I was wondering where I was going to put all of the seeds I bought, but they are all outside in containers now, except the peppers, basil, some annuals that I will direct sow, and these polka dot plant seeds. Actually, I have a very deep window above my kitchen sink, which faces southwest. I am hoping that is the perfect place to start seeds/grow seedlings and maybe a few herbs indoors, since I don't have any grow lights.

Hi, Did you water it thoroughly? As in soak it completely and let the excess water flow out to avoid root rot. If you did that, then did you give it enough time to absorb the water? This plant should perk right back up when watered! Unless the leaves are brown and crispy (which I don’t see) they should be healthy. I say it may be under watered or you just didn’t give it enough time to perk back up.

@popmama (Colorado, USDA z5) yes that is a purple heart, I as only showing it for the bug not the plant. @rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7 bad news, even indoors some leaves are still going missing! :( i noticed last night. so i moved it back to the balcony as i don't want any bugs moving around the house. Also the green leaf hopper is not the culprit. On the first day, I did found 5/6 green worms that looked like caterpillar. I cant find any more of them to show a picture here, I have been trying to upload a picture of the polka dot plant here, but its not working :( also another question as you suggested not to do anything about it, even if the cause is not those green leaf hoppers i should still leave the plant alone?