Coco-Coir .vs. Peat Moss...
arjo_reich
16 years ago
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oldmainer
7 years agojolj
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
coconut fiber vs peat moss
Comments (10)A copy/paste of something I wrote to compare Peat vs. Coir Sphagnum peat and coir have nearly identical water retention curves. They both retain about 90-95% of their volume in water at saturation and release it over approximately the same curve until they both lock water up so tightly it's unavailable for plant uptake at about 30-33% saturation. Coir actually has less loft than sphagnum peat, and therefore, less aeration. Because of this propensity, coir should be used in mixes at lower %s than peat. Because of the tendency to compact, in the greenhouse industry, coir is primarily used in containers in sub-irrigation (bottom-watering) situations. Many sources produce coir that is high in soluble salts, so this can also be an issue. Using coir as the primary component of container media virtually eliminates lime or dolomitic lime as a possible Ca source because of coir's high pH (6+). Gypsum should be used as a Ca source, which eliminates coir's low S content. All coir products are very high in K, very low in Ca, and have a potentially high Mn content, which can interfere with the uptake of Fe. I haven't tested coir thoroughly, but I have done some testing of CHCs (coconut husk chips) with some loose controls in place. After very thoroughly leaching and rinsing the chips, I made a 5:1:1 soil of pine bark:peat:perlite (which I know to be very productive) and a 5:1:1 mix of CHCs:peat:perlite. I planted 6 cuttings of snapdragon and 6 cuttings of Coleus (each from the same plant to help reduce genetic influences) in containers (same size/shape) of the different soils. I added dolomitic lime to the bark soil and gypsum to the CHC soil. After the cuttings struck, I eliminated all but the three strongest in each of the 4 containers. I watered each container with a weak solution of MG 12-4-8 with STEM added at each watering, and watered on an 'as needed basis', not on a schedule. The only difference in the fertilizer regimen was the fact that I included a small amount of MgSO4 (Epsom salts) to provide MG (the dolomitic lime in the bark soil contained the MG, while the gypsum (CaSO4) in the CHC soil did not. This difference was necessary because or the high pH of CHCs and coir.) for the CHC soil. The results were startling. In both cases, the cuttings grown in the CHC's exhibited only about 1/2 the biomass at summers end as the plants in the bark mix. I just find it very difficult for a solid case to be made (besides "It works for me") for the use of coir or CHC's. They're more expensive and more difficult to use effectively. The fact that some believe peat is in short supply (no where near true, btw) is easily offset by the effect of the carbon footprint of coir in its trek to the US from Sri Lanka or other exotic locales. That's the view from here. YMMV Al...See Morecoir vs peat
Comments (2)Coir is too light for a mulch and too expensive, but what I added to the compost pile from the pets did increase the yield. I bought jumbo sized bags of coir in a pet store, but I still buy cheaper sheared wood for my browns. Coir is not really a brown, but it does really increase the bulk/yield and the plants seem to like it a lot. I can't say I would buy it, if I did not have the pets, but it does beat peat moss. And peat is looking like 40 dollars for a large bag. I use compost or the sheared wood for a mulch if I feel I need to mulch. And for potted plants, but I was not using peat in my compost bin anyway at those prices. It's more of a potted thing, but then when you transplant or dump the plants, then all more coir for your bin. I think coir would blow away here as a mulch, I have western facing garden, and strong winds always blow away stuff. I do wish I could get it cheaper in nursery sized bags instead of pet sized bags....See MoreCoco Coir, Fiber, Chips...growing media for all plants, Glossary?
Comments (4)Minibot You got the great main idea! We all here share our finds and answer questions. But again- it is not a science - it is an art. What works for Korina -not necessary will work for you. You are right - you need different recipes to try and choose what is better for your watering habits, water Ph, just plain how much you compress soil when you repot - or if you live on East or West coast or right in a middle. The people here are from the very beginners to the very top growers. Top growers had already fine tuned their mix - and the beginners are still learning why the peat mix the store sells the plants in - is NO-NO, bad news and needs to be removed and rinsed off - otherwise you only be adding to the common opinion that AVs are very hard to grow because they die on you with no reason. IMHO and it can be just for me - AVs grow better under the lights than in natural light. They grow better on wicks than without. And if you are using wicks - the soil you will use will be some variation of a basic Cornell mix 1:1:1 - peat, vermiculite and perlite and additives like dolomite lime and charcoal - and there is enough discussions about if the is anything at all in charcoal or it is all old wives tales. Korinna replaces peat with the coir - and it works for her. Leaf mold is a good component for non-wicking mix, as well as garden loam - or whatever you could find in old books. But looks like serious growers nowdays are all in wicking. Fiber that you see in your orchid pot is most possibly a sphagnum moss - which also has it uses in gesneriad growing - milled moss is added to the basic mix for growing rhizomatous gesneriads - kohlerias, smithianthas. Jon_D here knows an awful lot about all gesneriads besides violets. About researching the web, finding your own links - it kind of educational - you read a good book - you always learn more than you asked. AND you can always share your finds. Good luck Irina PS If your collection is not yet overwhelmingly big - order some soil from specialized AV stores - you can get the links from AVSA site on vendors....See MoreCoco Coir
Comments (25)TheMasterGardener1 Coco coir is pH neutral when used by itself, and wont affect pH in hydroponics. Peat on the other hand is another story. Peat can and will change your pH, and how much depends on the type and how much the peat is used. However I think sorghum peat moss is the most pH neutral, and really the only thing that should be used in hydroponics (but not cost effective). Most peat will absorb to much water, and compact, suffocating the roots. Bottom line, I would never recommend using a coco coir/peat mixture to grow hydroponically. But coco coir/chips is the growing media I prefer to use myself. Though it's typically recommended to test pH before adding nutrients to the water, it's rarely needed to be adjusted before if your using a good water source to begin with. Unless it's above 7, or below 5, I don't bother to pre-adjust pH (I know my water supply and don't even bother pre-testing it anymore). Any good nutrient manufacture will add pH buffers to the nutrients. The buffers will help inisionally adjust the pH, but their mainly their to help keep the pH stable (typically for about two weeks depending on your particular variables). You should never add lime or any additive to the growing media or nutrients indiscriminately. Doing so can lead to toxicity. Any good manufactured nutrient solution will already be a balanced nutrient. Adding extra mineral elements just because you have them lying around will change that well balanced nutrient. If your going to add an additive, be sure it's necessary before you do. Or at least make sure you can undo it if you don't get the desired results. Also by adding lime to the growing media in a hydroponic system, that will continually change the pH with every water cycle. Not a desired effect in recirculating hydroponic systems. The idea is to keep pH as stable as possible, not have it keep changing all the time....See Moreoldmainer
7 years agojolj
7 years agopoaky1
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agooldmainer
7 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
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7 years agojolj
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7 years agooldmainer
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoIrving Ragweed (Austin 8b)
6 years agoalbert_135 39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
6 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
6 years agomonomer
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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