I am certain that some of the reading/info I found on people servicing their Honda Hydro transmissions were because the owners had found that the fluid levels were low/they found fluid on the ground near their mowers. But I also know that some of the subject matter pertained to plain old maintenance. I emailed three authorized Honda equipment retailers/service centers the below message on Monday night. "Hello I am just wondering what the recommended service intervals are, what they entail and the recommended fluid to use when maintaining the hydro transmission in my HRX? Thank you and I look forward to your response." As of right now I have only had response from one of the retailers and here is what I got. "Brandon, The transmission only needs a cable adjustment annually. The only time you would ever add fluid is if the seals are leaking. So under normal conditions it is maintenance free. Thank you, Paul Benson Motorsports Service Manager" To which I replied... "Thank you for your prompt response. So to drain and refill would not beneficial in any aspect?" And her responded... "No that is not necessary. Thank you, Paul Benson Motorsports Service Manager" So for anyone wondering what if any service/maint these Hydro transmissions require, the answer is none. If the fluid levels are low then you can think about adding fluid/rebuilding the seal system. I'm going to ask about the fluid and see what info I can pry from him! PS- I'm also very interested to hear responses from the other two companies, if I even get one... I only recie

It was a bit tricky logistically, but not technically difficult. Thanks, I did it and learned a ton. The gasket came out in pieces, so that was definitely needed. Now that part doesn't leak but the portion of the transmission up top (not the motor) is leaking. When I pulled it apart it didn't have a seal, so I don't know how it didn't leak before. I'm going to put a seal on that and try it. Luckily, that's much easier to get apart and I don't have to mess with the oil. Question, I was tightening the top most bolt on that portion of the transmission when the bolt broke down by the threads. What's the best way to deal with it? I was thinking about carefully drilling it out and get a magnet to help grab the little metal slivers, but is there a better way to approach such a job?

I check mine when it is cold, fill it to the full line , careful not to get any contaminets in there, I have a similar tractor and use a small funnel to get it in . remember to change the fluid per manufacture.Cleanliness is important when dealing with any component....

Consult a repair manual or the user's manual about how to check the transmission fluid level for your vehicle. I am not familar with your vehicle, but the following is a general procedure that I have used for all the automatics that I have owned. Check the fluid hot. Some dipsticks may have hot and cold marks or holes in the stick. Automatic transmission fluid expands when heated. The fluid level must be measured with the engine running so that the torque converter remains filled. While in the car and with the brake on, move the gear selector through reverse and a forward gear, then back to park. Apply the parking brake and check the dip stick. The oil line may be difficult to see. If the stick picks up oil from the side of the tube when withdrawn, there may be splashes of oil above the full line. If the fill line is obliterated, put the stick back in all the way, and try again. Continue until you get a positive indication of the fluid level. This takes practice and some experience to avoid a false reading. Keep the upper end of the stick elevated above the bottom end. The stick does not have to be perfectly upright and may be lain down as much as 45 degees from horizontal. if the stick is allowed to go level or more, the oil line may creep up the stick or flatten out. When you withdraw the stick, keep a rag or waste paper under its tip to prevent dripping any fluid on painted surfaces. Transmission fluid harms paint. If you can't see the fluid line, rotate the stick to view its other side. In other words, keep fiddling with it until you get a reliable reading. You'll probably have to move the stick from under the hood out into better light to see the level (hense the need to catch the drips).