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Dead leaves on double weeping cherry

13 years ago

I have a young double weeping cherry that I planted last summer. Recently, I've noticed some branches that appear to be dying back, with leaves dying and the branches looking dead. The tree has otherwise looked healthy.

The only thing I can think of that I've done is sprayed miracle grow on the leaves several weeks ago, as I've done last summer on all my shrubs and young trees.

Anybody have thoughts on this?

Thanks.

Comments (6)

linux
Original Author
13 years ago
I will also add that I've not watered it this year, as it "should" be getting plenty of water here in Seattle, though it's been dry for about a week. Also, I have ground cover around it, lemon thyme and blue star creeper, the ground cover starts about a foot from the trunk.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years ago
i NEVER fertilize trees.. EVER....

so ya.. you might have burnt the leaves.. especially if it was too strong or done in sunshine ....

or you had a frost a week or so back.. if that happens wherever you are ...

ken
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a cherry is a cherry .. as to leafing out.. certain CULTIVARS may vary according to flowers ... most likely a goner ... it should be showing signs of leafing by now ... you can give it another month.. but even if it leafs out ... there probably isnt going to be much left by the time you trim out all the dead stuff ... we dont know if it was grafted... but if so ... the suckers that come up may or may not be true to the form you had ... and odds are.. the root mass isnt dead.. and something will come out of the ground ... but that is just a guess .. you have a lot of lawn there.. perhaps you ought to contemplate a replacement or two.. and give this one a month or two to see what happens ... ken
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Well, my first thought is to say a resounding NO, it can't be saved. If you are really dedicated to it, you can try, but..., it may not be possible to save it. Donating a new tree and planting it properly MAY be a better use of your efforts. I would skip the iron - you don't know that's what is needed without a soil test. What I might do instead, in terms of feeding it, is to scratch in a couple of handsful of alfalfa meal, and a handful of an organic, balanced fertilizer, into the soil - the alfalfa meal contains a growth stimulant, but a mild one, and will give a little extra nitrogen, and the organic fert. will be fairly gentle, and won't burn the roots, which have to be struggling. It has probably had a goodly dose of the lawn chemicals, which may have burned the roots. Mulching as widely as you can, no deeper than 4", and with no mulch in the 2-4" next to the trunk will help, if for no other reason than it might keep the next application of "various chemicals...I don't know what are applied to surrounding lawn", from getting to the roots. Water well, but check the top couple of inches of soil first - if it's dry, water, and if it's still moist, then wait and check again. You want to water the whole root area, slowly and deeply. If the lawn gets irrigated, the amount of water that gets to the tree may or may not be enough. What was the condition of the soil you removed like - dry, soggy, compacted, loose, etc., etc. - since that might tell you about the watering in the past? Good luck!
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Check soil moisture by poking around in soil near tree. Dieback could be one of diseases that affect cherries. In future, do not use bone meal or amendments in planting holes. Here is a link that might be useful: Horticultural Techniques For Successful Plant Establishment
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If I had to guess what caused your tree's loss of foliage, I'd guess soil moisture problems. I wouldn't worry about the leaf coloration or when the remaining leaves will fall, but I would keep an eye finger out for proper soil moisture. Make sure the area around the rootball and the rootball itself stays moist but not wet. Use a finger to probe down into the soil an inch or two, and don't let the soil dry out at that level. Keep in mind that if the rootball is composed of a different medium than surrounding soil, drainage (and moisture levels) will vary between them. Proper mulching (not touching the trunk, not more than about 4" thick, and over as wide of an area as practical) will also help.
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Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
13 years ago
Any evidence of borers on the trunk? Did you plant too deeply? Only guesses with the information given.

Dan
linux
Original Author
13 years ago
"i NEVER fertilize trees.. EVER....

so ya.. you might have burnt the leaves.. especially if it was too strong or done in sunshine ....

or you had a frost a week or so back.. if that happens wherever you are ... "

Really? Not at all? Not even in the spring? Well, OK, maybe I've got something to learn, and yes, I did spray the miracle gro in the sunshine, but no frosts lately.

I did not see any borers, but I'll make a point to check closely tomorrow. Did not plant deeply.

Vic
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
13 years ago
Dieback on ornamental cherries in the PNW is very common - one of the many fungal or bacterial problems these trees are prone to here (so many in fact, that WSU published an entire pamphlet on ornamental cherry tree problems). It has nothing to do with fertilizer or lack of it - much more a factor of our weather and the inherent vulnerability of these types of trees.

As to fertilizing or not.......never is a very long time and it may very well be that trees and/or shrubs in the landscape will require some sort of nutrient supplementation from time to time. They do pull nutrients from the soil and while they may have a long reach, it is not inconceivable for them to require fertilizer on occasion. But it should not be considered an annual chore but done only as needed. The appearance of the plants and/or a soil test will determine what, if anything is lacking and should be supplemented.

And when the time does come to fertilize, throw away the MiracleGro and use a granulated fertilizer (synthetic or organic - your choice) sprinkled around the entire root zone. Foliar fertilizer applications are extremely inefficient and generally a waste of time and fertilizer. Nutrients are absorbed primarily by plant roots and the benefit of foliar applications is minimal.

Without photos it's difficult to say exactly what your cherry is suffering from, but brown rot has been very common this season with our cool and wet late spring. FWIW, fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer (like MiracleGro) is not advised as increases the incidence and potency of the fungal problem. "Use only moderate amounts of nitrogen fertilizer such as one application per year of a 5-10-10 or none if the tree is growing normally." (WSU Extension Bulletin)
Embothrium
13 years ago
This (below) is the one I've seen, as I remember it the focus is on orchard cherry trees.

Nitrogen is what is usually needed on plantings here, and not phosphorus and potassium. Over-application of phosphorus has the added bother of the soil needing to be dug out and replaced, since phosphorus leaches very slowly. Any growth type may need to be fertilized, starved-looking trees and shrubs are highly prevalent in this area.

Plants not from Mediterranean precipitation regimes need to be regularly watered in our climate, where rainfall normally falls off markedly after 4th of July celebrations are dampened. Any time it rains less than 1" per week, it can be time to water.

Here is a link that might be useful: Why Cherry Trees Die

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